Hoping to visit Grotta della Poesia during your Puglia trip? There’s some really, really important things you need to know before you add it to your itinerary…

Visit just a few years ago, and it would have been difficult to distinguish this part of rocky shore and short cliffs from others you'd pass on the Adriatic Coast. In fact, unless you knew where to go or what was once here, it would have been easier to drive past on your way to several popular beach towns nearby.

And we speak from experience.

On our first visit to Puglia in 2017, we set out to discover this burgeoning attraction, back when there were no car parks, just a handful of apartments on the side of the road, no signage and no clear indication that this nature-made beauty spot existed at all.

Dutifully following a pin on a map we made our way across dusty rocks to the edge of a limestone cliff, and stared down into the aquamarine waters below.

Not a soul was around.

Then, word got out, pictures went viral and, in lockstep with Puglia's rising popularity amongst non-Italian tourists, Grotta della Poesia - the ‘Cave of Poetry’ touted as one of the world's most beautiful swimming holes - became a must-visit spot in the southern Italian region.

However, such fame and footfall rang alarm bells for those who valued the site for a very different reason; a big change was set in motion.

In this short guide to Grotta della Poesia and neighbouring Roca Vecchia, we’ve shared everything you need to know to plan your visit in 2023 and our view on whether it’s still an essential stop or not.

Roca Vecchia Archeological Site

Back in 1983, the collapse of a sea cave roof here triggered the curiosity of Professor Coismo Pagliara, who upon detailed investigation discovered walls covered with inscriptions and etchings from distinct and disparate civilisations. In an area that had already been subject to archaeological enquiry, his find kicked off further excavation works of the large complex now known as Roca Vecchia.

These works established that Grotta della Poesia was not simply a place to swim: archeologists declared that this famous Puglian attraction was one of the most important protohistoric locations in Italy.

The University of Salento archeological teams that have continued to work here for over a quarter of a century since Pagliara's cave discovery became increasingly concerned with the ever-growing crowds each summer coming to swim and sunbathe in the Grotta della Poesia, as well as elsewhere within the thirty-hectare site by the water. Aside from the footfall causing erosion, litter and graffiti in the soft limestone was destroying much of archaeological interest.

With abundantly beautiful coastline available in Salento, this was one important area which should be protected rather than treated like a municipal swimming pool.

The concern turned into concrete action in 2019 when Roca Vecchia became gated, ticketed, and transformed into a protected archaeological site for continued digs, academic research, and tourism visits.

Most importantly for those of you reading this and hoping to take a dip in Grotta della Poesia, that intervention banned all swimming and sunbathing.

Visiting Grotta della Poesia in 2023

It appears to have taken a while for the new rules to be followed, with countless photos of people swimming there still popping up social media in the summers since the ban and most online references still talking about the old state of affairs.

However, following our own visit in late September 2022, we can confirm unequivocally that this ban is now being strongly enforced.

There are signs up everywhere reminding you of the rules, the stairs down to the swimming hole are blocked off, if you turn up with a parasol you will be turned away, and if you look like you're about to go for a swim when you arrive at the entry gate, you will likely be questioned about your intentions.

Paying visitors are instead encouraged to not only focus on Grotta della Poesia but explore the entirety of the archeological site, and contemplate the 3,500 years of uninterrupted settlement here on a flat, beautiful rocky outcrop on the east coast of Puglia, mere steps from the sea.

The Rocca Vecchia archaeological site is split across two areas, and we recommend you first stop by Grotta dell Poesia (Google Maps), Grotta della Poesia Piccola, the Madonna of Roca Vecchia tower, and the fort which formed part of Charles V's coastal defence efforts. Afterward, walk alongside the road to the larger area (Google Maps) which houses the foundations and ruins of Bronze Age fortifications and Messapic walls.

There’s also a lesser-known bit of walking trail linking the two along the coast.

Grotta della poesia Entry Tickets

Entry costs €3 for adults, it’s €2 for under-14s or over-65s, and disabled visitors receive free entry.

You can buy tickets at one of the machines, or in-person at the desk by the entrance (here on Google Maps).

Note that the ticket price permits area to both areas of the and includes a guided tour, which we’d suggest joining if you are interested in the history and archaeology. It is quite difficult to fully appreciate the main archaeological of Roca Vecchia independently, as there is limited signage and, to the untrained eye, the archeological site can seem a tad unimpressive; an informative guide can really help bring the place to life and add the necessary historical context.

There are several information boards and QR codes around with more historical information and context, whilst there’s also an app to download to accompany your visit.

Grotta della poesia Opening Times

Overly complicated if you ask us.

You can visit Grotta della Poesia et al daily between 9am and 7pm in high season (1st May-15th October), however the rest of the Roca Vecchia site has much more limited hours / days:

May, June, September, October | 3.30pm to 7.30pm on Saturdays, Sundays, and public holidays.
July | Tuesday, Thursday, Saturdays, and Sundays from 3.30pm to 7.30pm
August | Every day from 3.30pm to 7.30pm

The timings for the guided tours in English are very unclear, but we’re fairly certain they only coincide when the whole archaeological park is open i.e. the Roca Vecchia hours, rather than the Grotta della Poesia hours.

Clear as mud right? In short, if you want a guided tour and to visit both sites properly, it’s best to arrive after 3.30pm in high season.

If you do happen to visit outside of the above listed hours, you can still access a path the skates around the excavation area, beginning to the left of the large gates.

For low season (16th October-30th April), the reception if open 9am-12pm + 3pm-6pm, but pre-booking 24 hours in advance appears to be necessary and the guide service is no longer included in tickets. If visiting at this time, we highly recommend going to the official website to confirm hours and reservation / notice requirements.

Grotta della poesia Parking

There is a new, large designated dusty car park opposite the site. Parking costs a minimum of €0.90 for 30-minutes, or €1.80/hour, and there are several machines to pay and get your display ticket (card accepted)

Find the car park entrance here on Google Maps, and just be careful when walking alongside and crossing the road from the car park to the ticket desk; there is a zebra crossing but this is quite a busy little stretch of road. From the car park, you need to go cross and bear right for the main entrance + tickets.

Do note that despite, no longer being able to swim, Grotta della Poesia remains a popular place to visit in Puglia. If the car park is full, you may be able to park on the road that runs alongside it.

Note that bicycles are not permitted within the archaeological site, and food, drinks, and parasols + deckchairs are also banned. Drones are also not permitted, unless previous authorisation has been received from the site management.

Is Grotta della Poesia Worth Visiting Now?

That probably depends.

If you have absolutely no interest in archeological ruins and had your heart set on the swimming hole, then we’d probably say give it a miss - especially if you’re visiting in the summer months when the last thing you want to do is traipse around in the dust and be unable to jump into the sea.

In 2022, it definitely looked like most people turning up still didn’t know about these changes, and some went back to the car to leave whilst others paid to go in without their beach gear - and that was the reason for writing this post.

However, if you’re already in the area (especially on one of the days that the entirety of Roca Vecchia is open) and don’t mind spending €3 + parking to take a quick look, you could easily combine an hour or so here with a visit to Torre dell’Orso or even grab your towel and swimming costumes, find a nice rock nearby along the coast and make a day of it. This is a wonderful stretch of coastline - home to several of our favourites beaches in Puglia - and perhaps interspersing it with a little culture and history may be exactly what you’d like!

A lot of money has been put into the cultural transition and enforcing the restrictions and as Roca Vecchia becomes more firmly established as an archaeological site with each passing summer, rather than a free Instagram-friendly swim spot, we predict that Grotta della Poesia will be increasingly less popular.

It may all be a little too late, but with so much excellent sea + swimming + diving spots elsewhere in Puglia, and only one place to protect on the coast like Roca Vecchia, perhaps this is all ultimately for the best.