Looking for things to do in Ostuni, Puglia? Want to know where to stay, how to get there - or just trying to work out whether it's somewhere you'd like to visit on your own Puglia road trip? Then this guide to Ostuni should have you covered!
Fully Updated April 2024
Driving through the beautiful Valle d'Itria, along a road lined with pale green olive groves growing from terracotta lands, you will see Ostuni long before you arrive; the vast 'White City' rising high above the ocean of olive trees that sweep through this verdant area of Puglia.
Built atop a hill to protect from invaders, Ostuni is a certifiable labyrinth. A maze of alleyways, staircases and arches, of houses built upon houses, of hundreds of years of history laid out before you in a way no map can truly explain or capture. Dead ends and pretty little gardens, glimpses of the Adriatic sea, green doors and bright blue skies; everything and nothing may lie around the next corner you take.
Ostuni is a city for explorers, and a place to be devoured slowly over a couple of days. It's a city for historians and for those that simply like to stroll amongst beauty and spontaneous Italian moments.
It is a city that should be on every Puglian itinerary.
the ostuni essentials
Base / Ideally located to explore nearby towns & villages
Wander / Get lost in the beautiful old town (or join this excellent walking tour to make sure you don’t!)
Visit / Stop by the cathedral and Piazza della Libertà
Seek / Don’t miss our favourite viewpoint
Learn / Join a local olive grove and olive oil tasting tour
Stay / Splurge at La Sommità Relais or opt for an Airbnb - Casa Palmira & A House in the Sky are two of our favourites
Ostuni Is a Wonderful Base in Puglia
We’ve actually visited Ostuni three times now, across three different trips, several years apart. We’ve visited in March, when we had the city to ourselves, and twice in late summer when her white walls still glowed luminescent under a bright sun - and we’ve loved it each and every time.
It’s a beautiful place in and of its own right, and offers an abundance of excellent accommodation options, from gorgeous hotels and aesthetically pleasing airbnbs, to budget friendly rentals and guest houses. In addition, it’s also fantastically located for access to a number of wild beaches, plus several of the region’s most popular destinations on day trips.
That’s why in the replies to countless emails and comment we receive from people planning their trip to Puglia, we so heartily recommend Ostuni as a base for at least a couple of nights on a Puglia road trip or for a week to slowly explore this part of the region.
Later in this post, you can find our personal picks of the best places to stay in Ostuni.
When to Visit Ostuni
As mentioned above, we have visited Ostuni both in peak summer when the streets were full, restaurants were open every night of the week until the wee hours and every tourist shop was vying for your attention, as well as a much quieter few days in March - and the difference was quite stark.
Whilst Ostuni is a lovely spring destination (especially if you're travelling from much cooler parts of northern Europe), do note that eating out can be a little more tricky particularly during the day when options are exceedingly limited.
A better option is to plan your time in Ostuni - and Puglia more generally - for the months that fall either side fo the busy July and August summer holiday. Personally, we love to travel southern Italy in September, crossing over into mid-October, and that would be the ideal time to visit Ostuni. All the restaurants are open, the city still has a lively vibe to it, the days are hot and the nights warm and the sea has hit that wonderful ‘just don’t want to get out of the water’ temperature.
To avoid crowds, visits in late May and June would also be worthwhile but be mindful that whilst the temperatures may mean the beaches are increasingly fuller, the water may not yet have heated up to make an enjoyable swim.
If for whatever reason your trip simply has to take place in July or August, don’t fret, you’ll still have a lovely time but just be aware that in order to avoid the worst of the crowds and the heat, you may want to set that alarm a little earlier and adjusting to a more Italian mindset way of life with an afternoon pausa (be that in your accommodation or under a much-needed beach parasol), make the most of shade, and eat much later in the evening.
Plan // 17 Really Useful Things To Know Before You Visit Puglia
Things to Do in Ostuni
We absolutely adored spending time in Italy's 'Citta Bianca', discovering a new alleyway, staircase or tiny trattoria every time we ventured out - in fact, we have little doubt we'd continue to discover more hidden nooks should we return in the future. Unlike many of the small towns and villages dotted throughout this part of Puglia, Ostuni is not a simply a town for day-trippers, offering enough for a stay of at least two or three nights
Here are our favourite things to do in Ostuni.
| Go for a wander
As with every Puglian town and village, the very best can be discovered simply by taking a walk through the old town - the centro storico. If you're visiting in low season, just be sure to do so in the morning when the town comes alive before the afternoon 'pausa'. If visiting during summer, adjust to the locals' eating times and head out in the balmy summer evenings after dark (from about 8 or 9 p.m.) to see a wonderful contrast as Italian families venture out to eat, drink and converse.
You can also take this popular walking tour, whilst zipping around in an ape (an Italian tuk-tuk) with a local guide is a very popular activity to cover Ostuni if you’re only here for a day. You’ll see several of them hanging around the old town waiting for business, and prices are quite toppy at around €50 for an hour. Alternatively, you can also book + pay for this Ostuni tuk-tuk tour online if you prefer.
| People watch in Piazza della Libertà
Dominated by a 20-metre high 18th century column topped with a statue of Saint Oronzo, Ostuni’s main square is where you’ll find Palace Municipale (once a 12th century convent, but after several extensions and an entirely new facade, now acts as the town hall), plus an abundance of traditional restaurants, more simple cafes and the odd gelateria.
You’ll naturally pass through Piazza della Libertà on multiple occasions during your time in Ostuni, but make a point to stop by in the early evening when locals and visitors alike descend for their evening passeggiata, aperitivo or dinner.
Do note that, as is common across central squares in lots of Italian cities and touristic destinations, restaurants that line this piazza do tend to charge more than those you may find on a more hidden away street (although the pizzas at Caffè Garibaldi were really pretty good). In addition to the dish + drink prices, this also comes in the form of the coperto - a fixed charge the flummoxes many first-time visitors to Italy.
You can be one of the savvy ones though by reading our short explainer guide: What’s The Coperto in Italy
| Walk the city walls
On your wanderings throughout Ostuni, you will inevitably find yourself heading downwards toward the city walls - and it's definitely worth it. This solid construction, designed to keep invaders out, give you an entirely different perspective on the White City.
Top Tip // Looking for pretty photo spots in Ostuni? There are several in a cluster!
The famous door pictured below can be found here, just down from a very pretty street (maps). The city’s most famous stairs are here, whilst there’s a nice viewpoint from Via Clemente Leonardo (maps).
In the evening, Borgo Antico Bistrot by the blue door was popular with the pretty young things in the evening, with long queues outside. Being neither that pretty or young anymore, we didn’t join them to see what the fuss was about, but it appears to be the setting, vibe, and the excellent viewpoint out over the countryside!
| Check out the Cathedral
Sitting atop the hill that houses Ostuni is its crowning glory, the impressive 15th century Gothic cathedral. Just be sure to enter - it's even more spectacular inside!
Located in the same Piazza as Ostuni’s Cathedral, and connected by an arched loggia (that’s a covered external corridor to most of us), you’ll also find Palazzo del Seminario and Palazzo Vescovile, the latter of which houses the remains of a 12th-century Norman Castle that was destroyed in 1559. We’re not sure if you can enter to see this, but if you do, we’d love to hear from you in the comments!
| Go find a special view
Ostuni is stunning at any time - but it's particularly beautiful at sunset. For fantastic views over the white city head up to Corso Vittorio Emanuele II and take a seat at the viewpoint (you can find the exact location here on google maps).
Alternatively, you could grab an aperitivo or dinner at a nearby restaurant that looks over the same view - Ristorante La Vecchia Terrazza (maps) or Bloom bistrot Cafè (maps) are both a good shout, especially the latter that makes an excellent Spritz!
We were also fortunate enough to book this great value Airbnb with a private rooftop to enjoy a glass of wine and watch the sunset
| Fill up on local produce
Escape the tourist crowds, and visit the Saturday local market with stalls selling everything from fruits and vegetables to local crafts. The market is held between 8 am and 1 pm in the vicinity of Via Nino Sansone, southwest of Ostuni centre find it on Google Maps.
Did you know? // Puglia is responsible for more than 40% of Italy’s total olive oil production - and much of that is produced from olive groves that surround Ostuni (including, oddly enough, our personal supplier here in Shrewsbury whose family runs a farm out that way). You’ll find plenty of shops and delicatessens selling olive oils in the old town - some excellent, some just palmed off on the tourists - but if you really want to learn more behind its production, and sample some exquisite varieties, we recommend joining one of several tours and tastings on offer in the surrounding area.
This short but popular tour out to a local Masseria allows you to see the groves close up, learn more about the process and taste some excellent olive oil. You can find more about the tour here.
| Time your visit for the festivals
Between the 24th and 27th August, a celebration of the town's patron saint (the Cavalcata di Sant’Oronzo - the same chap whose statue sits atop a column in the main square) takes place. Don't miss the costumed procession in horseback held on the penultimate day.
We love Puglian cuisine, and one of the very best days to experience it is on the 15th August in Ostuni when the Sagra dei Vecchi Tempi comes to town providing a great opportunity to taste all of the region's incredible offerings and traditional dishes.
Top Tip // If you have a little more time in Ostuni, consider visiting one of the city’s galleries and museums. Lovers of contemporary art, should make a beeline to the Orizzonti Arte Contemporanea which features works by international and local artists (find current exhibitions on their website), whilst those with more of an interest in archeology and the history of the area should check out the Museo Diocesano di Ostuni (maps) housed inside an ancient Episcopal Hall, and the Museo di Civiltà Preclassiche (maps) located inside a former monastery.
| Jump in the car for a day trip!
Sample the best of Puglia. Given Ostuni's proximity to a number of popular tourist attractions (namely the likes of Locorotondo, Martina Franca, Alberobello and the spectacular Adriatic coastline), it makes a fantastic base from which to explore the highlights of region. In fact, it's a base so perfect that we used it twice in a year!
Rent a car (we rent all our road trip vehicles with either Autoeurope or RentalCars) and escape into the Puglian countryside, to the shimmering sea, and the beautiful villages which surround it.
You can find our guides to several of the popular day trips from Ostuni below:
· Cisternino (published soon)
· Martina Franca (published soon)
· Monopoli
· The slow guide to the Val d’Itria (published soon)
| Head to the beach
With all the amazing things to do in Ostuni, it is easy to forget that it is also located just a stone's throw (or a short drive) from some of the most beautiful beaches in Puglia, all found along the aptly named 'Marina de Ostuni'. Be sure to check out Lido Morelli, Quarto di Monte and Torre Pozzella.
We’re hoping to have a blog post on the best beaches near Ostuni out soon so if you’re planning a trip, be sure to check back!
| Grab yourself a cocktail
Go right here on Via Cattedrale for our favourite little restaurant + drinks street - Via Gaetano Tanzarella Vitale.
It would be easy to miss the entrance for this narrow alley, but it's before the archway / porta with a sign listing various restaurants and arrows.
Gabo (maps) | It isn't just that the cocktails were that damn good (they were - Emily definitively stated that they made the best americano of her life)), but the ambience from our little nook looking out on the secluded but busy square was just perfect on a balmy summer's night.
They also offer excellent lunch time option with lots of fantastic sandwiches, mezze-style plates, veggie and healthy options in a wonderful outdoor seating.
Il Posto Affianco (maps) | Next door to Gabo, this was popular and is more of a pick for a special occasion lunch or dinner.
Continue along the alley, and you'll pass Nudo e Crudo Sushi Bar (maps), the perfect-for-an-early-evening-glass Enoteca Divino wine bar (maps), and end up at Bar Perso (maps), which has a lovely daytime view over the countryside.
For evenings on weekends or during the summer season, we recommend making reservations.
Where to Stay in Ostuni
We've stayed both in the old town and what we can only describe as a newer section of old town (that is outside the old city walls, but still amongst historical buildings), as well as amongst the olive groves a few minutes drive away - and all come with their benefits.
If you don't plan on hiring a car in Puglia, foresee that you will eat out most nights or would prefer to be 'closer to the action', we'd recommend staying in either a hotel or apartment within Ostuni's old town - whether that is within the old city walls or not will likely depend upon your mobility, how much luggage you’re travelling with and whether you have a car or not.
The below are highly recommended, within walking distance to everything you need and have excellent reviews.
Ostuni Hotels & Guesthouses
La Sommità Relais & Chateaux | So, it's not cheap, but if you want luxury in a prime position, you won't find much better than La Sommità Relais - it even has a Michelin Star restaurant on site!
Hotel La Terra | There are surprisingly few hotels in the centre of Ostuni, with most people clearly favouring an apartment-style stay. With stunning facilities (but at a slightly nicer price), La Terra is a great option for those that prefer the hotel experience.
Palazzo Altavilla | Probably the fanciest apart-hotel in The White City, Palazzo Altavilla combines all the benefits one would expect to find in an excellent hotel with the ability to be a little more self sufficient. Great location and the pool is to die for.
Tulipano Bianco | Cute little apartment with impeccable decor and a beautiful little roof terrace.
I 7 Archi Guest House | A great option for those on a bit of a budget, this Guest House has several apartments/studios, some of which come with pretty little terraces. As with all of the above, location is top notch!
Ostuni Airbnbs & Apartments
The number of Airbnbs available in Ostuni have exploded since our first visit several years ago, with literally hundreds of options available, for all budgets. For this reason, the below is not a definitive list of Airbnbs, more so a curated selection. We may put together a separate where to stay post in Ostuni at some point in the future given the choice available.
We will note in each description whether the property is within, or outside the old city walls so you can decide whether it is right for you. As one would expect, accommodation within the walls is more expensive than outside (although you still find some cracking bargains like Studio Milla, Pied a terre in Ostuni and The Small White House).
Ottogradoni (£) | This excellent value studio apartment is where we stayed for our first visit to Ostuni. It’s ideally located just 300 metres from the main square, is small but functional and best of all, has an incredible private roof terrace with views over the city.
If staying in a cosy smaller Airbnb doesn’t bother you, but you’d rather be within the walls, check out this gorgeous - and highly rated - studio.
Casa Mima (£) | This large one-bed apartment is just 150 m from the main square, is light and airy, tastefully restored, has not one but two balconies plus a four-poster bed. We honestly think it should cost a lot more than it does - excellent value!
Other nearby budget-friendly options include: Magical House, Vintage House (with its incredible terrace), and the cute little Romantic Home.
A House in the Sky | We absolutely adore this property (and so do many others given the number of amazing reviews!). Set over three floors, this historic house is bursting with period features but with a clean and modern edge. A real treat is the private terrace with 360 degree views over Ostuni.
Casa Palmira (££) | This large, recently renovated one-bedroom apartment really is stunning - and super popular. Offering stylish interiors throughout (including high ceilings, solid stone floors, amazing attention to detail and a four-poster bed), the panoramic rooftop terrace with exceptional views really seals this as an incredible place to stay in Ostuni.
Terrazza Ariafina | Another firm favourite is this gorgeous two-bedroom apartment just a few steps from the famous Porta Blu. Gorgeous contemporary styling throughout, loads of light, excellent views and a lovely large roof terrace.
There are so many excellent Airbnbs with gorgeous roof terraces that it’s difficult (and not really practical) to list them all here, but we highly recommend checking out the following as well:
Romeo e Giulietta | Le Cupole - Mosaico con Terrazza | Casa Bolero a Ostuni | Ostuni STYLE
Stunning Two Bedroom House in the Heart of Ostuni | Le Cupole - Terrazza Panoramica
Spectacular Roof Terrace with Amazing Views | Caelum Aria (this one is particularly lovely)
Casa Di Zia (£ - ££ depending on how many guests) | This cute little four-bed house within the old walls of Ostuni - and just a few steps fro the cathedral - has been sensitively modernised whilst retaining its original features (including gorgeous tile floors), is light, bright and ideally sized for a family. Gorgeous views of the old town from the little patio.
Vista Mare (££) | A gorgeous three-bedroom property, that is actually broken down into several separate apartments, this is our pick a group of friends that wish to stay together but have their own space. Beautifully decorated with a white palette and minimalist aesthetic, the terrace with views towards the ocean is just wonderful.
Alternatively, this huge three-bedroom house may be perfect for a family.
White Dream (£££) | The most expensive option on the list, but if you’re heading to Ostuni for a romantic getaway, the private cave pool and gorgeous terrace may just seal the deal!
Ostuni Masserias
If you’ve just begun your Puglia planning, you’ve likely come across the term masseria.
There’s no direct English translation for this, but it’s essentially a collection of stone buildings that together, in the past, composed a farm. Nowadays however, many of these masserie have been covered into beautiful tourist accommodations - and the countryside surrounding Ostuni is full of them!
On our second visit, we had the pleasure of staying at the incredible Corte dei Messapi (read our review here), but below are a number of other great options, all with excellent reviews:
Masseria Ayroldi | Masserie Maresca | Masseria Valente
Masseria Cervarolo | Masseria Donna Nina | Masseria Le Carrube | Masseria Spesseto
Where to Eat & drink in Ostuni
In peak tourist season, picking a spot to eat in Ostuni can be pretty difficult with an almost overwhelming array of restaurants from which to choose for all budgets - with some being incredibly popular. You will find most options in Piazza della Liberta, or as you ascend Via Cattedrale and the small alleys branching off from it.
We have scattered suggestions for some of our favourite bars and restaurants throughout this blog post, but you’ll find several more below which we'd return to in a heart beat!
Il Vizio del Conte (maps) | Less of a restaurant, and more of a hole in the wall, this popular place offers really good pizza and foccacia. Best enjoyed on the small bench outside with a cold bottle of beer!
Borgo Antico Bistro (maps) | With some of the best sit-down views in the city, this place is a must visit. Hidden amongst the tiny alleyways, this photogenic spot offers delicious sharing plates, great cocktails and a fantastic place to watch the world go by. Do be aware that this has become a super popular spot in Ostuni (especially with a younger crowd) so throughout much of the tourism season, expect to wait a while for a table.
La Pastasciutta (maps) | This place is not fancy, but if you’re looking for a no-frills bowl of pasta for a quick lunch, this place has you covered. With outdoor seating in the atmospheric Via Vito Tamborrino, a menu that changes daily, dishes for around 5 Euro and glasses of red wine for 3, it's of little surprise that we returned more than once...
Casbah Risto Cafè (maps) | A cool little place to hang out in with cocktails and two cute little tables overlooking all the action in the old town.
Impasto Napoletano Pizzeria (maps) | Anybody who knows us, knows how much we love a good Neapolitan pizza (it’s the reason we’ll go back to Naples again and again!), and this place makes a damn good pizza! It’s a little walk from the centre of town, but if you’re looking for the best pizza in Ostuni, this may well be it!
Ciccio | We have a bit of a running joke with this gelato place. Falling in love with it several years ago, when it came to writing this post initially we couldn’t quite remember its name - until a lovely reader worked it out for us. Then, upon returning to Ostuni last year, we were super disappointed to see that a new restaurant had opened where it used to stand. Well ladies and gentlemen, after some digging around it appears that it did not shut down, it just moved premises, and the gelato is as truly incredible as always! Highly worth the little wander into the newer part of Ostuni. You can find Ciccio here.
Cremeria La Scala | We also came across this little gelateria last time we were in Ostuni, and whilst it’s not quite as good as Ciccio (that place gave us very high standards), it’s a good choice if you fancy grabbing something in Piazza della Libertà. Find it here.
**Although we didn't visit any 'vegetarian-only' restaurants, we can confirm that eating out as a veggie was never difficult, with many of the traditional dishes being meat-free to begin with. Additionally, even the pizza restaurants offered a vegan pizza!
How to Get to Ostuni
If you are visiting Ostuni as part of a larger Puglia trip, by far the easiest way to get around is with your own vehicle. We have visited the region three times, and have hired a car on each and every occasion. Whilst it’s certainly possible to negotiate the region with public transport, without a hire car we wouldn’t have been able to cover as much ground, nor accessed some of the smaller, more off-the-beaten-track locations.
We don’t stick with one car hire company when we rent our road trip vehicles, however we always look, compare and book via a big aggregator like AutoEurope or RentalCars - this often provides greater availability, and allows us to source the best vehicle for us, at the best rate. We have used both these companies exclusively for all our road trips (including all three Puglia road trips) and highly recommend them.
Top Tip // For more advice on reducing the stress and costs of car hire, read these posts: 9 Essential Car Rental Tips for Travellers, our road trip itinerary and our post on driving advice for Puglia.
ZTLs and Ostuni Parking
If you are visiting Ostuni as part of a larger Puglia road trip, you need to be aware that driving in the wrong part of an centro storico can result in a very costly fine (and we speak from personal experience!).
This town is no exception, and in fact has a relatively large ZTL that you will not be able to take your car through. Not sure what we're talking about? Then take a look at this post for more driving advice in Puglia.
If you’re staying outside of the historic centre, you’ll likely find on street parking nearby (top tip: hire as small a car as possible - parking is not easy with a big vehicle in these small streets!). Alternatively - and for those staying within the old town - you could try one of these car parks: here or here.
ARRIVING IN Ostuni FROM THE AIRPORT
Whilst technically Brindisi Airport is a fair bit closer to Ostuni, Bari isn’t prohibitively far, meaning either is a good choice for arrival into Puglia and onward transport to Ostuni.
By Rental Car | It’s a around a 40-minute drive from Brindisi Airport to Ostuni, and 1 hour 10 minutes from Bari Airport.
By Train | From Brindisi Airport there are frequent (around every hour) direct trains to Ostuni, taking 20 minutes and costing approximately €3.20 per person. There are no direct trains from Bari Airport to Ostuni, and instead you will need to take a train to Bari Centrale and then connect on to a direct train to Ostuni. This journey should take no longer than an hour and 20 minutes, and tickets cost approximately €11 per person.
You can check times on the Trenitalia website here, and we recommend reading 12 Essential Tips for Train Travel in Italy.
By Bus | We are not aware of a practical bus connection from either of the airports to Ostuni, but feel free to confirm via Omio.
PUBLIC TRANSPORT to and from ostuni
Whilst buses seem to be much more of a rarity - at least when wanting travel between popular tourist destinations in Puglia as opposed to super local routes - train connections are plentiful. The train station is located around 3 km from the centre of Ostuni (here on Google Maps), requiring either a 35 minute walk or a short taxi ride. You can check times on the Trenitalia website here.
Do note that whilst the natural thing would be to assume that trains would be the fastest option (besides car) to get to and from Lecce, Puglia does have a relatively decent bus system too. Therefore, we’d recommend checking Omio to compare your options.
Whatever you choose to do here, we know you'll have an amazing time. And if we've forgotten to mention any of your favourite things to do in Ostuni, let us know in the comments!
