Whether you’re trying to find the perfect seaside destination in northern Spain or just looking for the best things to do in Llanes, this guide has you covered!
Venture outside of the popular package holiday resorts on the southern coast, and you'll discover that it's not just the Brits that are partial to a sunny Spanish holiday - the Spanish themselves frequently vacation within their own borders.
Keen to escape the sweltering temperatures reached in cities such as Madrid and Seville, they howeverchoose to head north, to enjoy the beautiful coastline and pretty towns in the region of Asturias - and few are more popular than Llanes.
A magical medieval city, still housed within crumbling walls, with an active harbour set along beautiful waterways, fantastic beaches and top notch views from the small hill which overlooks it all.
Once you arrive, it’s easy to see why - for the Spanish at least - this is such a sough-after destination.
In this guide you’ll find everything you need to know to plan the perfect stay, including the best things to do in Llanes, our tips on where to eat, our favourite beaches, and - for those basing themselves here for a few days - where to stay.
This is our short guide to Llanes, Spain
things to do in llanes
Explore / The pretty old town
Spend / A few hours at the local beach
Enjoy / Asturian cider & local dishes
Visit / The Ethnographic Museum
See / Los Cubos de Memoria
Take / A walk along Paseo de San Pedro
Stay / This gorgeous penthouse or, if you’d prefer a hotel, the beautiful and luxurious Don Paco
the best Things to do in Llanes, Spain
| Los Cubos de Memoria. Art lovers shouldn't miss Los Cubos de Memoria. Designed and painted by famous Basque artist Augustin Ibarrola, what should be a simple breakwater to protect the harbour has been transformed into a colourful work of art - the artist’s literal memories of Llanes. You’ll find Los Cubos de Memoria here.
| Spend a day at the beach. Llanes, and the surrounding region, is not short of beautiful beaches with more than thirty within a short driving distance. If you’d prefer to stay close to the town however, you’ll be delighted to know that unlike many urban beaches, the sandy coves in the centre are actually rather pretty, incredibly clean and perfect for an afternoon or morning in the sun.
There are three to choose from: the most popular - and our personal favourite - is Playa de Tóro, located here, whilst Playa del Sablon (maps), and Playa de Puerto Chico (map) are also worth checking out if you only have a couple of hours but are craving some sun and sand time.
| Take a walk along Paseo de San Pedro. This pathway, linking the town and port, takes you high above Llanes for dramatic coastal scenery and spectacular views of the Bay of Biscay, as well as sweeping views of the medieval town backed by the Cuera mountain range.
Paseo de San Pedro runs along here and is accessible from Playa del Sablon beach or at the junction of Av. de las Gaviotas and C. Periódico El Pueblo.
| Try Asturian cider. Coming from English cider country, it takes an awful lot to impress Emily, and in a world of sickly-sweet flavoured concoctions (the Swedes have a lot to answer to), she’s come to be a little sceptical of international offerings (Brittany aside). One swift drink of Asturias' favourite tipple however, and it became clear that Hereford has some stiff competition.
Whilst the cider itself tastes pretty similar, the serving method is anything but! To solve the lack-of-bubbles issue encountered by this particular cider, the servers in Asturia have got a little trick: it's poured from high up above the server's head, straight into the glass waiting about three feet below - and then you have to drink it, all in one gulp. After all, the next person is thirsty too (cider drinking here is a very sociable affair, and traditionally you share the same glass).
We thoroughly enjoyed the offerings at La Casona Sideria (maps), but if you’re in a bit of a party mood, Bar-Sidrería La Amistad (maps) is also a great shout.
| Houses of the Indianos. Whilst many Spanish set sail for the Americas during Colonial times, the early part of the 20th century saw a huge number Asturians in particular crossing the Atlantic in search of wealth and a better life. Whilst many never returned, the few that did changed the architectural landscape of this northern Spain region, building brightly-coloured, mansions known as ‘Casas de Indianos’ in their hometowns; Llanes is no different and boasts a number of this Indiano Houses which are well-worth stopping by.
If you start at the edge of town, you’ll likely encounter the majority of these impressive buildings, but a few to put in your map include: The Palace of Parterriu (maps), The Palace of the Marquis of Argüelles, and Llanes Casino (maps).
| Explore the Old Town. Whilst it may be tricky to tear yourself away from the sand and siderias, Llanes’ medieval historic centre - much of which remains intact - is absolutely worth exploring. A few places to make a beeline for in particular are:
The Tower of Llanes / Built in the 13th century, this imposing tower was originally a part of Llanes's defensive system, before becoming the local jail, and now the tourism office. Sadly you can’t go in, but you can admire its architecture from the outside. Find it here on Google Maps.
Basilica of Santa Maria del Concejo / Construction on this gothic church began in the 12th century although it wasn’t completed until the 15th. The altar was bought in from Italy and is an exceptional example of early Renaissance sculptures. The Basilica is free to enter and can be found here.
Gastañaga Palace / Located in Plaza de Santa Ana, this14th century gothic manor house has been beautifully restored. Find it here.
Plan // Llanes features on our northern Spain road trip itinerary - read it here.
nearby Llanes beaches worth visiting
Playa de Toranda | This beautiful light gold sand beach is ideal if you want to park up, have somewhere pretty to lay your towel and be able to grab refreshments on-site (rather than bring them with you). It's also got good snorkelling. You can find Playa de Toranda 8 km from Llanes.
Playa Ballota | A particularly attractive 350m sandy beach protected from the sea by a rocky promontory. It's a popular beach in the summer months, especially with families. Find it 4.5 km from Llanes.
Playa de Torimbia | Traditionally a nudist spot, bathing suit lovers have been increasingly drawn to the wild shores and white sand of Playa de Torimba. Just be prepared for the 1.3 km hike from the capark down. This is one of the further away beaches, but at only 9 km from Llanes is still super close.
Playa de Poo | Whilst this beach may have a rather unfortunate name in English, don't let it put you off - this pretty & calm cove is edged by shallow waters and perfect for families.
Playa de San Antolín | Unlike some smaller coves in the region, this vast expanse of beach sits completely unprotected from the sea. This means more waves than some might like but an excellent spot for surfers - especially beginners.
If you’re looking for a quiet, hard-to-reach spot, follow the 900-metre trail from San Antolín beach carpark to the hidden bay of Playa de Gulpiyuri - tricky to find, but worth it.
Do note that even during the hot summer season, the water rarely goes above 19 degrees, so surfers may want to wear a wetsuit all year round.
| Indulge in the local food scene. Given its status as a port town, it should come as little surprise to discover that freshly caught seafood is very much the dish of the day across all restaurants in Llanes, with many of the most popular found within the port area.
Whilst we fully endorse taking a wander and picking whichever spot you fancy, consider making a note of the following: Restaurante Siete Puertas (maps), El Bálamu (maps) and El Balandro (maps). Foodies should add the Michelin-starred Restaurante El Retiro (maps) to their to-do list!
If you’ve got more of a sweet tooth, try a casiedella - a local pastry make with hazelnuts and walnuts, often shaped like one of Cubos de Memoria.
| Llanes Lighthouse. If you’ve read our other guides, you’ll know that we love a lighthouse! Llanes’ offering wasn’t built until the end of the 1800s, but it’s still a great reminder that this town was once a busy fishing port. You can find the lighthouse here.
| Take a trip to the Ethnographic Museum. Possibly an activity more appropriate for a rainy day, this museum hosts a collection of traditional buildings showing how life was in 18th century rural Spain. The museum can be found here and is open Tues - Sat 11am to 1.30pm, and 5pm to 7pm from 15th March to 17th March, closing in the evening for the rest of the year. Entry is €2 per person.
| Celebrate like a local. Llanes has several festivals and fiestas, most of which take place within the summer season.
Fiestas de San Roque / This festival takes place on the 16th of August and is one of the largest (and most impressive) celebrations in Llanes; indeed in recent years it has become increasingly popular with tourists, attracting visitors coming from all over Spain.
It honours the opening of the Hospedería de San Roque in the 13th century that took in those making their pilgrim to Santiago through Llanes, as well as the life of San Roque, a French pilgrim believed to have cured people of the plague.
Festivity of Santa María Magdalena / Held in July (22nd or close to) and announced by a big fireworks display at 8am.
La Guía / A fitting end to the summer season, this fiesta held in the first week of September is a celebration of the patron saint Virgen de la Guía.
Where to Stay in LLanes
Despite being such a small town, there are plenty of great places to stay to suit all budgets and needs.
Airbnb
Modern Penthouse | This recently re-decorated apartment is super chic, with a modern industrial vibe and is perfect for a small group of friends or two couples. It’s within walking distance of all the sites and has a cute little balcony. Find out more here.
New Central Apartment | This excellent little apartment is perfect for a couple. Comfortable, clean lines, a 5-minute walk to the beach - plus, it has a parking garage so it’s ideal for road-trippers. Find out more here.
If the above is not available, check out this option instead - very similar set-up, aesthetic and price point.
Asturian Town House | This gorgeous, light, bright and modern three-bedroom house is ideal for a family or group of friends who need a little more space. A traditional townhouse that has been beautifully renovated, it’s got a great location, all mod-cons as well as a decent-sized terrace. Find out more here.
Llanes at Sea | Whilst the decor of this two-bedroom apartment leaves a little to be desired, its location right over the water and incredible views mean it absolutely deserves a mention. Find out more here.
Cosy Apartment | If you prefer Airbnbs with more of a homely vibe, be sure to check out this two-bedroom apartment. Excellently located for the beach (just a three-minute walk away), it’s full of light and charming design features and comes highly rated. Find out more here.
Hotels
Hotel Miraolas Llanes | This large modern hotel overlooking the water (and only a few metres from Puerto Chico Beach) has large, well-furnished rooms, most of which come with sea views. The hotel has excellent amenities and a great guest terrace. Find out more here.
Don Paco | Don Paco is a sustainable hotel in an old Baroque covenant. The old interiors blend perfectly with the modern decor, plus it has a wonderful restaurant and gorgeous views. Find out more here.
Not quite our style, but if you’re looking for a resort-style hotel, Hotel La Palma de Llanes is a fantastic option, just a 5-minute drive from Llanes.
Hotel Los Molinos | Family-run and in a great location, this excellent little guest house is an ideal option for those on a bit of a budget, who plan to be out and about for most of their stay. Has really lovely reviews. Find out more here.
Hotel Indiana | Fancy staying in a beautiful renovated Indiano house? Look no further than Hotel Indiana. With just 15 rooms, it’s a relatively small hotel focussed on an luxurious, boutique experience. It’s a few minutes drive from Llanes, but it’s location amongst the countryside makes it an ideal romantic retreat. Find out more here.
How to Get To Llanes
// By Plane
The closest airport to Llanes is Santander, to which there are frequent flights from several UK airports, as well as elsewhere in Europe.
From the airport, the easiest way to reach Llanes is with a rental car although it is possible to get there with public transport - just bear in mind that it’s not quick and requires at least one change. The most direct option is to first take the train in to the centre of Santander; this has a journey time of around 3 hours.
// By Car
Whilst Llanes is easily accessible by public transport, as many of you reading this post will be visiting as part of a wider Asturias - or indeed Northern Spain - road trip, it generally makes more sense to hire a car. This is especially true if you wish to explore more harder to reach destinations or wish to cover a lot of ground in one day.
We rarely go direct when hiring our road trip vehicles, instead preferring to use two popular rental aggregators to compare costs and find the best deal. The two companies we use are AutoEurope and RentalCars - both of which we have had excellent experiences with.
If you’re planning on renting a car during your time in Spain, we suggest reading ‘Nine Essential Car Rental Tips for Travellers’, for general tips on how to save money on your car hire and avoid some common vehicle rental mistakes.
There is lots of free and paid parking available in Llanes, but you may well find that your accommodation offers this service - best to check before you arrive.
// By Public Transport
As we mentioned above, it is perfectly possible to reach Llanes with public transport. It has a train station, and many intercity buses travelling throughout northern Spain stop here.
You can check all public transport options here.
