A Curated Guide to Cefalù, Sicily | A Gorgeous Seaside Town

Looking for the best things to do in Cefalu, where to stay, tips for food and drinks, the best spot to park, or just how to get there on your Sicily adventure? We’ve got you covered.

In our curated guide to Cefalu, you’ll find everything you need to plan the perfect trip.

Updated October 2023

Anchored between salty water and craggy rock sits the charming small town of Cefalù. An ancient fishing port at heart, in relatively recent years it has become the beachside break of choice for those seeking sun and sand along the Tyrrhenian coast of Sicily.

Yet unlike Taormina to the east, which can be a little too busy to be pleasant, Cefalù - even in its peak summer months - remains a wonderful place to visit. In the cooler early morning hours, the warren-like tangle of streets are filled with people, but the obvious mix of locals alongside the well, not-so-local, is refreshing.

Even the beach, this perfect crescent slither of biscuit coloured sand, heaving under the weight of a thousand colourful umbrellas screams out to all who pass to give in, lie down and simply live the dolce vita for a little while.

Unfortunately, Cefalù (pronounced Shef-a-loo) also represents a feeling of slight regret for us: its reputation as a popular tourist draw preceded itself, and so we had low expectations and chose not to use it as a base on our one month road trip across Sicily. However, after only a few hours exploring it in glorious sunshine, we knew that was a bit of a mistake and wish we had chosen to spend a few more days there splitting our time between the charms of old town, the incredibly picturesque beach against the city walls, and doing absolutely nothing else.

In this guide you’ll find the best things to do in Cefalu, tips on where to eat, the best places to stay and how to get there.

Cefalu | The essentials

Hike / Head up to La Rocca for views over the sea

Indulge / Grab a gelato at Antica Porta Terra Gelateria

Drink / Join a wine tasting tour in the Madonie Mountains

Chill / Hang out at the beautiful Cefalu Beach

Sail / Head out to sea on this four-hour sailing tour

Etna / Hike up an active volcano - find details here

Stay / Our very favourite Airbnb, the charming Lirma B&B or for a luxurious resort vibe, Hotel Kalura

The most wonderful Things to do in Cefalu, Sicily

Grab Breakfast in the Piazza Duomo

We’re not usually the biggest fans of cathedral squares in Italy; absolutely beautiful, but usually overpriced, overfilled, and often, a little overrated.

That’s why we’re recommending you head to Cefalù’s early in the morning or in the early evening. Lined by small osterias, the obligatory gelato place, and bars perfect for a pre-dinner aperitif, it’s the tables in the centre of the plaza that you’ll want to sit down at. Osteria del Duoma is always a good bet, especially if you opt for their coffee and pastry combo - the cornetti are some of the biggest we came across in the island!

When you’re done, do take a moment to visit the spectacular Duomo, if even for a few minutes. Built nearly a century ago, it houses one of Sicily’s greatest artistic treasures, and a vision in gold: beautiful mosaics depicting Cristo Pantocratore - Christ All Powerful - considered to be the island’s oldest and most well-preserved (predating even those in Monreale).

Even as two travellers who have seen more than their fair share of churches, it’s pretty impressive.

There’s no entry fee to enter the Duomo itself, but for an up close and personal experience with Cristo Pantocratore, consider buying a special ticket - bought on the door - that allow access to the church’s towers. Do note that this ticket has recently gone up in price and now costs €9 per person; the view from the top is lovely, but given that the netting makes photography pretty impossible this may be a deal-breaker for you.

There is also the option to visit the cathedral’s treasury and cloisters, costing €12 per person (was €5 earlier in 2022). We didn’t do this, but if you scroll down to the comments you’ll find a review from a reader who recently did it.

The entire ticketing process is actually far more complicated than it should be with four different options available. You can find full details of the options on the official website, but note that it only appears to be in Italian.

Top Tip // If you find yourself in the Piazza late afternoon and don’t mind paying a little bit more for your evening Aperol, we’d recommend checking out the pavement step hangouts of Agorà (maps) and La Cantina (maps - although it is down as temporarily closed on Google Maps, so if you visit and find otherwise, please do let us know!). The plaza is a popular spot for a pre-dinner passeggiata and you will find locals and Italian visitors alike engaging in animated conversation over ice-cooled drinks.

Cefalù Sicily

Hike up La Rocca

Any viewpoint worth its salt requires a bit of legwork first - and La Rocca is no exception.

It’s a 284m climb along a progressively worsening trail to reach the craggy mountain top that was once the site of a Norman castle. It’s not easy in the summer heat, but with spectacular coastline views out towards Palermo in the west and Capo d’Orlando in the east, it’s more than worth the effort.

Be sure to also take a moment to visit the ruins of Tempio di Diana, which you’ll actually encounter first on your hike up to La Rocca. It’s from here that you can enjoy a wonderful view over the old town, the orange rooves edged by that stunning aquamarine sea.

Where | To reach the entrance to Parco de la Rocca (Google Maps), take the stairs up the narrow Via Giuseppe Fiore for 5 minutes.

When | La Rocca is open from 8 am - 5 pm from April to October, and 9 am - 4 pm from November to March. Please be aware that the staff are somewhat strict with their opening times, and if you arrive after 5 pm you almost certainly won’t be allowed to begin the climb.

Cost | There is an entry fee of €5 per person to access La Rocca and Templo di Diana (which has recently increased from €4). This is inserted into a machine at the bottom of the stairs, which then provides you with a valid ticket. Note that it accepts correct change only, but you can pay by card if necessary. When we visited there was a chap who checked these tickets on our way back down so be sure to keep a hold of yours. On your walk up across a small section of stone stairs and then dusty gravel for the majority, you’ll notice that this fee doesn’t seem to go towards maintaining the trail or signs (to be honest, we’re not entirely sure what it covers…).

What to Wear | Although you absolutely do not need hiking boots, we would strongly recommend having closed toe shoes for the hike up. We both managed to do it in sandals (just about), but would have felt much more comfortable in a pair of trainers, for example. In fact, after receiving feedback from several readers, it appears that they have now brought in a rule that all visitors must have closed toe shoes or risk getting turned away at the gate.

What to Bring | Additionally, be sure to apply plenty of sunscreen prior to heading up and carry as much water with you as you think you’ll need; getting to La Rocca is no joke in the summer sun. In fact, you are best to do this hike in the morning or later in the afternoon. There are no facilities on the hike.

Have a drink in Piazza Garibaldi

Far enough away from the cathedral and the beach for the tourist crowds to thin just a tad, the quaint Piazza Garibaldi, edged by numerous bars & restaurants, is a wonderful place to catch a little shade during your daytime wanderings.

For those with a sweet tooth, or anybody who simply can’t get enough of Italian gelato, we also highly recommend the ice cream place pictured below - Antica Porta Terra Gelateria (maps). If you haven’t yet had a chance to indulge in a brioche con gelato whilst in Sicily - literally ice cream in a brioche bun - head here, pick the pistachio flavour and thank us later.

This square also marks the quickest start point for the Rocca entrance. That beer you’ll have in the piazza makes great hydration before an afternoon climb! You can find the entrance here on Google Maps.

Top Tip // Fancy combing that drink with a trip to a stunning little hilltop town? Consider joining this wine tasting tour to Castelbuono. Departing from Cefalu, this four hour activity includes a tour of Castelbuono’s medieval centre and wine tasting within the award-winning Abbazia Sant' Anastasia winery. Find out more here.

Find the shade at lavatoio medievale

Here flows Cefalino, healthier than any other river, purer than silver, colder than snow.

Or so states the plaque that hangs at the entrance of this medieval wash house.

Accessed via a wide lumachella and lava staircase, and built atop a river said to flow with the tears of a nymph who cried for a dead lover, it’s certainly a curiously beautiful example of life in ancient Cefalu. Remarkably it was used right into the 20th century before being fully restored in 1991.

You can find the lavatoio medievale on Via Vittorio Emanuele (here on Google Maps). We recommend visiting first thing in the morning, when we had only to share the space with a busker. When we returned later in the day, it was much busier.

Top Tip // We thought the best place for lunch and evening food (in terms of atmosphere and options) was Via Carlo Ortolani di Bordonaro (maps). Just remember that lunchtime opening / closing hours are strict in Sicily, and you won’t find many lunch options open after 14.00 . Continue further along this road and the crowds disperse and there are a handful of hidden away archways accessing the sea!

Lavatoio Medievale, Cefalù

Indulge in Gelato

Perhaps because it was our final day in Sicily, but we ate an indulgent amount of gelato during our relatively short time in Cefalu - from three different places to be precise.

Whilst this was an undeniably delicious past time, the other benefit was that we have plenty of recommendations on where to go, alongside where to perhaps avoid.

We’ve already mentioned Antica Porta Terra Gelateria mentioned, but the other definitely worth stopping by is Santa Lucia Gelateria (maps). The third places we tried was Gelateria del Lavatoio (maps), which although a decent enough spot to round off our time in Cefalu, appears to have received a number of negative reviews since our visit. An alternative option is Squagghiò (maps), a gelateria that we didn’t get a chance to try but one which has astoundingly good reviews!

Visit Museo Mandralisca

Okay, we admit it, we got distracted by the beach and didn’t quite make it here.

However, if you’re visiting Cefalú on a not-so-glorious summer’s day (or spending more than an night or two in town), we highly recommend eschewing our bad example and make a beeline to Museo Mandralisca, a small privately owned museum filled with the lifelong collection of Baron Mandralisca.

Feel free to walk straight past the ceramics, stuffed animal and pottery, as the real draw exists within a single frame: the famous ‘Portrait of an Unknown Man’ by Antonello da Messina. Salvaged by Mandralisca from a purpose quite unbefitting of its provenance (it was apparently being used as a cupboard door), it is now considered to be one of the most distinctive portraits from the Italian Renaissance

With a smile that said to be as intriguing as that of the Mona Lisa, not stopping by is like visiting Paris and never entering The Louvre. Which is one of the many reasons that we really need to return to this lovely little Cefalu some day!

Need to Know| Museo Mandralisca is found on Via Mandralisca (here on Google Maps), and is open every day in July and August between 9 am and 11 pm, with reduced opening hours during the rest of the year - please check their website for further details. Entry is €6 per person, and you should allow around an hour to visit the entire collection.

Cefalù Beach

Hang out at Cefalù beach

Remember the perfect crescent slither of biscuit coloured sand to which we referred earlier?

Well, that’s also one of the most popular stretches of beach along the entire northern coast of Sicily. It’s the main reason why Cefalù simply booms come summer time with many locals and holidaying Italians.

For those planning on laying their towel upon the decent stretch of free beach, the most important thing to be aware of is that you need to get there early - especially if you’re travelling in a group of more than two people. Space is at a premium, and if you need a lot of it, you’ll need to beat the Italians!

There are a number of lidos on the beach where, for a fixed price, you can rent two sun loungers and an umbrella for a day. Prices vary thoroughout the year, but expect to pay up to €35 per day in high season.

If this is your first trip to Italy, and all this talk of lidos has left you a little confused, be sure to check out our no nonsense guide here.

The water is warm enough to swim in up until the end of October (some people even venture in until November) and it’s generally calm and wave free.

Top Tip // If you would prefer to get out on the water and not just enjoy it from the beach, we’d recommend this four-hour small group sailing tour - complete with aperitivo, naturally.

Plan | Where To Find The Best Beaches in Sicily

The old harbour

There’s always one spot in every town, village or city that draws us in, cameras raised, and in a perpetual state of click-click-click.

In Cefalù, this place was undeniably the old harbour.

In fact, once we stepped through the ancient porto pescara gateway and ambled along the concrete walkway which yawned out into the sea, that’s the exact moment when we knew we’d made a mistake in not having another day to chill out by the sea in Cefalù. It’s busy, but bloody hell is it atmospheric when the sun is shining.

Along Dusty Roads - Sicily

Make sure to head across to the cement outcrop across from the small harbour beach, as the spot comes alive in late afternoon with fisherman trying the luck in the water below and kids using the platform as a make-shift diving board. This is also from where you’ll capture an iconic photo of Cefalù in all its rustic, sea-side glory - hanging out and watching the world go by was one of our very favourite things to do in Cefalu!


Seek Out Bastione di Capo Marchiafava

If you’re looking for a quieter spot for a dip, make your way to Bastione di Capo Marchiafava.

There’s a great viewing platform, but also access to a couple of swimming holes that, even in high season, were pretty empty - save from a couple of elderly locals cooling off in the ocean.

You can find it here on Google Maps.

Nearby you’ll also find Bastione Innovazione Cibo Cultura, a cultural space which houses both Museo Digitale (a museum which showcases Cefalu’s past through the digital media) and the fantastic Bastione & Costanza, a restaurant that focuses on everything sustainable, has a great no plastic policy and, amongst the traditional Sicilian fare, delicious plant-based cuisine options.

Top Tip // Calling all foodies! If you’re based in Cefalu for a few days and are keen to experience the local Sicilian cuisine beyond the town’s excellent restaurants, consider this highly-rated evening excursion to a small village in the Madonie Mountains where you’ll feast on a traditional five-course meal in a beautifully authentic setting. Discover more here.

Alternatively, it’s also possible to take part in a cooking class at a local’s home - find the full details here.

Take A Day Trip

Whilst many of you reading this article may only be spending a couple of nights in Cefalu - perhaps as part of a larger Sicily road trip - the location of this postcard pretty seaside town means that it also makes a wonderful base from which to explore the north east of the island - whether you’ve got your own vehicle, or would prefer to take a tour.

Popular day trips from Cefalu include:

Palermo | We adore this gritty city, and its location a little over an hour fro Cefalu means should you be be basing yourself here, visiting is an absolute must! Given the ease of reaching Palermo either by public transport or your own vehicle (see details on how to get there towards the end of this post) we wouldn’t necessarily recommend a tour, but if you’d prefer to visit with a group and a guide, then this walking and food tour with transport from Cefalu is a decent option. Either way, we’d highly recommend check out our guide to the best things to do in Palermo.

Mount Etna | Europe’s most active volcano is a must-visit for many visitors to Sicily, but for those staying in Cefalu - more than a three hour drive away - visiting for the day can present a number of logistical problems. That’s where this highly-rated tour comes in. Combining Taormina with Mount Etna, this full day tour offers good value and a really decent amount of time at each destination. Find out more here. If you can’t quite decided whether Etna is for you, we recommend checking out our complete guide.

Wander, explore, get lost…

Guidebooks, tourism board websites, this blog.

All of us have countless things to see and do in Cefalú, all listed, rated and presented in easily digestible chunks. But it’s not here, hidden between activity A and activity B that you will discover your love for this beautiful city.

No, it’s within its streets.

Naturally, any visitor will spend time tracing the steps of thousands before them along the popular Corso Ruggero, or Via Vittorio Emanuele, each offering up countless restaurants, bars, and souvenir shops (the tasteful kind, thankfully), we certainly did. But once you have orientated yourself, just wander.

Cefalù is best appreciated through that serendipitous decision to go left and not right, through breaking off from the tourist throngs and seeing where your feet or your camera lead you. And whether it ends at the ocean or at a table with another Aperol spritz, we can guarantee it will have been a good day.

Top Tip // Quite rightly, you are not allowed to walk without your shirt or on in a bikini in the old town streets - this is to keep some semblance of a distinction between the beach and the historic atmosphere. So, if you’re having a beach day, please respect this.


Where to Stay in Cefalu

Although the parking situation is a little less than desirable for long stays (see the next section), don’t let that put you off making Cefalù your base for a few days in the north of Sicily - it’s ideally located for day trips and the small town has everything you need.

The first thing you need to note before booking your accommodation however, is that the vast majority of the large hotels and resorts listed on booking sites as being in Cefalù are not actually, well, in Cefalù. Instead, they’ll usually be around a twenty minute walk away. Absolutely not a problem if you want a summertime retreat for a week, but potentially less than desirable if you’re only in town for a couple of nights. We’ll make it very clear below whether the hotels/B&Bs/Airbnbs below are centrally located.

Hotels in Cefalu

Agrodolce | Slap bang in the historic centre and only a few minutes walk to the beach, Agrodolce is a charming little B&B with a Mediteranean vibe. Great breakfast that can be taken on the pleasant little terrace. Private doubles from £75 a night. For more information or to check availability, click here.

Hotel Kalura | One of the out-of-town options, but Hotel Kalura is too beautiful (and popular) not to mention. Modern and stylish rooms with balconies overlooking the sea and access to a private beach. Comes with all that you would expect form a luxury standard resort hotel as well. For more information or to check availability, click here.

Azzurro B&B | Homely yet chic design, this small B&B has a great location in the old town (just a few minutes from the beach as well), and comes highly rated amongst guests. Exceptionally helpful staff and a great breakfast to boot. For more information or to check availability, click here.

Lirma B&B | Comfortable yet well designed rooms, a large outdoor area overflowing with plants and greenery, great staff and an excellent breakfast. It’s also well located for the old town and beach, only a few minutes walk to each. For more information or to check availability, click here.

Airbnbs in Cefalu

Is it wrong that we only want to recommend one Airbnb in Cefalù? Because seriously, it’s incredible.

Click here, book it, and thank us later.

However, because we know that this is a popular place to holiday, and that there is a possibility that that particular Airbnb will be booked up when you visit or out of budget, you’ll be glad to know there are a good selection of alternatives starting from £55/night.

| Luxury with a perfect view of the ocean | View

| Large apartment with exceptional terrace | View

| Beautiful apartment a few steps from the Duomo | Take a look

| Small but perfectly formed, and very stylish | View

| Apartment in amazing location with incredible architecture | View

| Comfortable apartment with stunning views from balcony overlooking sea | View

| This three-bedroom with excellent reviews is ideal for a family | View

How to get to Cefalu from Palermo

Cefalù’s proximity to Palermo makes it an ideal day trip spot, or an easy second destination on your itinerary if you’re planning to fly into Palermo and explore Sicily from there - either by public transport or, as we did, via a road trip.

If you’re just visiting for the day, the easiest way to access Cefalu is by train. These depart every hour from Palermo Centrale, taking around one hour and twenty minutes to arrive in Cefalù train station, which is a 10-minute walk from the centre of the old town. You should expect to pay €5-6 for a ticket bought on the same day. To book tickets in advance online, visit the official TrenItalia website.

Plan | Our Palermo Guide

Parking in Cefalu

In the words of our Airbnb host 30 minutes down the road, ‘parking in Cefalù is a nightmare, always’.

It was in fact the main reason for us opting against this gorgeous little apartment we found in the old town; the thought of having to lug all our possessions across town in the heat was just too daunting.

This is an historic city, and therefore littered with ZTLs (read more about these in our guide to driving in Sicily); taking your car anywhere within the city walls will result in quite a hefty fine. This however doesn’t mean that you can’t drive your hire car to Cefalù for a day trip or longer stay - you just need to plan ahead, arrive nice and early (we got there at 8 a.m. and had plenty of empty spots to choose from) or be patient enough to drive around for a while seeking out a free parking place.

The best spot to park is along the Lungomare Giuseppe Giardina (often referred to as just ‘lungomare’) where you’ll find kerbside parking on both sides of the road (€1/hour), as well as a very large parking lot (€5/half-day) - it costs €8 to park all day in either. From here it’s a very short walk to the beach (you’re right next to it) and less than five minutes to the gates of the old town. Easy!

If you’re planning on spending a night or two in Cefalù, then our main advice is to contact your Airbnb host or hotel in advance to confirm where the best overnight parking spot is for you, and how much it will cost.

It is possible to park overnight and for free in Porto Presidiana (the harbour), but you’ll need to pay €4-5 for the small electric shuttle bus to take you and your luggage to the door. Again, the responsibility is on your accommodation to let you know what’s best - and feel free to let us know in the comments about your experience of overnight parking in Cefalù to help future visitors!


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Cefalú, just an hour away from Palermo is one of Siciliy's most enchanting towns. Beautiful beaches, wonderful restaurants and iconic Sicilian vibes - a must do on any Sicily itinerary!  (Things to do in Sicily  | Things to do in Cefalu | Cefalu Gui…
Cefalú, just an hour away from Palermo is one of Siciliy's most enchanting towns. Beautiful beaches, wonderful restaurants and iconic Sicilian vibes - a must do on any Sicily itinerary!  (Things to do in Sicily  | Things to do in Cefalu | Cefalu Gui…
 

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