A Short Guide to Cudillero | Northern Spain's Most Colourful Town

Built around a small harbour, Cudillero is a place of hills, where colourful houses cascade towards the water's edge and finish with a perfect cove of picturesque seafood restaurants. It is a spot made for a leisurely lunch, for a slow meander along narrow streets towards the spectacular view from above.

It’s also the sort of place that, due to ever present issues of overtourism, shouldn’t really exist.

Yet, despite its increasing popularity with domestic and more curious international travellers, Cudillero manages to remain so very authentic; a small fishing town that just so happens to look like it has been plucked from a book of fairytales.

In this guide we cover the best things to do in Cudillero, including where to find the most picturesque views, the most wonderful places to grab a freshly caught seafood lunch and some of our picks on where to stay if you’re using Cudillero as a base rather than visiting on a day trip.

Things to Do in Cudillero

// Find the best viewpoints

// Stop by the churches

// Hit up the lighthouse

// Hang out in the working harbour

// Grab a seafood lunch

// Spend the day at the beach

// Visit nearby Cabo Vidio

// Quinta de Selga

Things to do In Cudillero

It won’t take long for you to cover the ‘top sights’, most of which will be covered simply by tracing a path from viewpoint to viewpoint, but don’t be in a rush to leave - those picturesque seafood restaurants really do make a wonderful spot for lunch!

| Stop by the Churches. Whether by land, or sea, small Spanish towns and villages will always have a church or two - Cudillero is no different.

Humilladero Chapel (maps) / Built in the 13th century and said to be Cudillero’s oldest building, this tiny gothic-style chapel was thought to have been the final stop for prisoners before meeting the executioner, as well as a popular place for fishermen to pray for a safe return from the rough seas. Remarkably, it disappeared from the town’s landscape for years, having only been re-discovered in the early 2000s during local renovation works.

Iglesia de San Pedro de Cudillero (maps) / Built in the16th century this church was once home to one of the most exquisite altarpieces in Spain, yet following a devastating fire during the Civil War, was rebuilt in a much more modest fashion. Still worth poking your head into if you’re passing by.

| Hit up the lighthouse. Ever wondered what came before the lighthouse? Well, cycle back 175 years, and in Cudillero, fishermen were not signalled back safely to the shore by a manmade tower but by wives and the flames of bonfires. 1858 saw the creation of the lighthouse that now stands proudly at the edge of the harbour, and while it isn’t currently open to visitors, it provides a wonderful lookout spot to enjoy views over the Bay of Biscay. Find the lighthouse here on Google Maps, a short walk from the centre of Cudillero.

| Take a walk to the Harbour. We’re suckers for working harbours, and Cudillero’s is definitely worth a wander. Colourful hulls and sea-hardy sailors, bundles of nets and fish drying in the breeze, elements that make us whip out the camera whether we encounter them under a bright blue sky or a windswept winter day. The harbour is about a 10-minute walk from the centre of the town (find it here on Google Maps), along a paved road walkway that lines the sea and is best visited in the morning when the fishermen return from sea and there’s a little more life about.

| Enjoy the local delicacies. Being a fishing town, Cudillero is famed for its seafood. As such you’ll find plenty of intimate little restaurants along the waterfront (and a few hidden amongst the winding lanes) offering up the local catch of the day. Be led by the menus, the view or a table in the sun - or alternatively, grab a spot at one of our top picks:

Casa Julio | They have a wonderfully varied menu and of course, another local delicacy, cider. It doesn’t have any sea views but there is outdoor seating looking out to the main square. Ideal for people-watching. Find it here.

El Faro | This restaurant is next to the Cudillero viewpoint and has a great terrace overlooking the water. The chocolate mousse and coffee come highly recommended. Find it here.

Nearby Attractions

One of the reasons we so enjoyed our time in the region of Asturias was the abundance of charming towns, exceptional beaches and wonderful attractions relatively close to one another and within a seemingly small area.

Cudillero itself is within close proximity to a number of sites which can tacked on to a visit to the town or alternately visited as a day trip when using Cudillero as a base.

| Quinta de Selgar. Dotted throughout Asturias are references to the wealth accrued by the Spanish that set sail for the Americas (known as ‘Los Indianos de Asturias’), with many towns and cities featuring vast palatial homes built by the few that returned home. Just outside of Cudillero however, a small number of lucky visitors can visit a grand palace of an entirely different style - the late 19th century Quinta de Selgas.

Built by two talented and wealthy brothers (Ezequiel and Fortunato Selgas Albuerne), this impressive palace borrows heavily - and authentically - from 16th century Italian and French design to create a space that is really quite breathtaking, especially the gardens which are known locally as the Asturian Versailles. Lived in by the family until 1991, it has now passed into the hands of a foundation who have beautifully preserved the property, alongside its fabulous art collection which includes pieces from Rubens and El Greco.

Unfortunately, as a privately owned property its opening hours are rather limited, and officially the palace opens only in the summer months (early July to mid September). We have heard rumours that sometimes they will allow private visits, so we’d recommend contacting the management team if you’re visiting out of season. Quinta de Selgas is located in the small village of El Pito (here on Google Maps), around a 10-minute drive from Cudillero. You can find further details on their Spanish-language website.

| Nearby Beaches. As Cudillero is a small and almost enclosed harbour, it doesn’t have its own beach. However, its location along the beautiful coastline of northern Spain means there is no shortage of stunning coves, bays and large stretches of sand just a short drive away. We recommend the following:

Playa de Aguilar (maps) / If you’re looking for soft golden sands an easy 10-minute drive from Cudillero, then this beach is kind of perfect. Facilities-wise there are a couple of great beach bars and a good-sized car park, but do note that this beach becomes very busy during the peak summer months, especially at the weekend. It’s also accessible by public transport, but does require a 25-minute walk from the nearest train station / bus stop. You can check train times and prices here, and bus times and prices here.

Playa del Silencio (maps) / Located 15 kilometres from Cudillero, this beach takes a little more effort to reach but (inlcuding a steep climb down through the cliffs to access) but is, as the name would suggest, a wonderfully quiet cove that remains popular with those seeking a little solitude. It takes around 20 minutes to reach by car or alternatively the bus has a handy stop nearby (see the route and timetable here).

Concha de Artedo (map) / This 700-metre blue flag beach beach has special meaning to Cudillero as it was once a landing site for the pilgrims en route to Santiago. Best at low tide when the receding water reveals golden sand. Driving time is 15 minutes and there is parking. The same bus you would take for Playa del Silencio will also take you to Concha de Artedo in 25 minutes (Avilés-Navia).

| Cabo Vidio. Located a short 10-minute drive from Cudillero, Cabo Vidio is an unmissable stop for any trip through Asturias. Guarded by a troupe of curious goats, these towering cliffs provide breathtaking views over the wild Bay of Biscay and offer the beginnings of numerous hiking trails from which to explore the coast. It is also a wonderful spot to watch the sunset.

For those of you who have a car, Cabo Vidio is just a 10 minute drive away - find it here on Google Maps. Otherwise, you can take a bus to Oviñana and walk to the coast. You can find details of the bus route here.

Tip // If you’ve got the skills (or want to join a tour), Cueva de la Iglesiona is accessible by abseiling off the cliff. You can find more details here.

Where to Find the Best Views In Cudillero

Unsurprisingly for a village that extends upwards not outwards, there is a veritable cornucopia of excellent viewpoints from which to take in the beauty of old town Cudillero, its harbour and the sea beyond. Just be aware that many require a fairly decent slog up steep stone steps - they’re worth it though, promise (as is the cider at the end!).

Oh, and as always, golden hour makes them pop extra special.

Mirador de Cimadevilla (maps) / Follow these steps for one of our favourite views out over the village, and be sure to enjoy the unique vistas along the way.

Mirador del Picu (maps) / This lesser-visited viewpoint can be a little tricky to find, but is well worth the effort.

Mirador de la Atalaya / The most challenging of the climbs (and probably best not attempted on a belly full of seafood), this mirador offers incredible views out over the Bay of Biscay, Cudillero harbour and the lighthouse. Along the way you will pass by Mirador de la Garita. Alternatively, you can park up in the local cemetery and follow the alternative, shorter walk.

Mirador del Contorno (maps) / For a completely different viewpoint, head to this spot at sea level directly opposite the village for picture-postcard photos of Cudillero.

Where to stay in Cudillero

Whilst many of you will visit Cudillero on a day trip, especially if following our Northern Spain road trip itinerary, it would a charming base for a couple of nights, and there are plenty of accommodation options to suit all budgets and preferences.

Airbnb

La Melosa Cottage | Located a little out of the main village, this gorgeous house has the aesthetic of a fisherman’s cottage but in a modern design. Comfy and cosy, it’s full of light, charming design features and its three large double bedrooms mean it’s perfect for a groups or a family. Do note that it’s a decent climb up from the village, but that does make for some killer views. Rates start at £177 per night. Find out more here.

La Garita | Expect this property to go up in price as it accrues more reviews, but for now this new, modern studio offers a delightful pied-a-tèrre ideally suited to a couple. Find out more here.

Cudillero Apartment | If modern, aesthetically pleasing design is very much your bag, but you crave a little extra space, be sure to take a look at this newly renovated, beautiful one bedroom apartment perched above the Cudillero rooftops. Find out more here.

Although we don’t really rate the aesthetic (it’s pretty tired looking), this highly-rated one bedroom apartment overlooking the harbour is good value, and well located for those that don’t want to climb lots of stairs.

Hotels

La Casona de Pío | Situated in the heart of the village, this traditional hotel was once a fish-salting factory. Retaining its original stone walls, the La Casona offers classic design and the feel of a rural home. The reviews are excellent, and people speak highly of the breakfast. Find out more here.

Casona de La Paca | Located a couple of minutes’ drive from the centre of Cudillero and housed in what was once a grand manor, Casona de la Paca is a truly beautiful hotel. Whilst only three stars on the face of it, the rooms are plush, common areas comfortable (and equipped with a fireplace for the cooler months), it has extensive grounds, and makes a great breakfast. Find out more here.

How to get to Cudillero

// By car

Whilst Cudillero is accessible by public transport, as many of you reading this post will be visiting as part of a wider Asturias - or indeed Northern Spain - road trip, it generally makes more sense to hire a car. This is especially true if you wish to explore more harder to reach destinations or wish to cover a lot of ground in one day.

We rarely go direct when hiring our road trip vehicles, instead preferring to use two popular rental aggregators to compare costs and find the best deal. The two companies we use are AutoEurope and RentalCars - both of which we have had excellent experiences with.

If you’re planning on renting a car during your time in Spain, we suggest reading ‘Nine Essential Car Rental Tips for Travellers’, for general tips on how to save money on your car hire and avoid some common vehicle rental mistakes.

For those basing themselves here, it’s important to note that as most of the accommodations are located in the hills, parking nearby can be quite problematic (all the car parks are down near the harbour). Some accommodations will allow you to drop off luggage in your vehicle but if you think this could be a problem we’d highly recommend discussing with your hotel / apartment before confirming.

// By plane

The nearest airport to Cudillero is in Castrillón, and handily referred to as ‘Asturias Airport’. There are direct flights from London Stansted with EasyJet but all other UK departures require a change elsewhere in Spain (alternatively, consider flying into a larger city in northern Spain and picking up a car / taking public transport from there).

From the airport you can either take a taxi, make your way to Santiago del Monte train station (maps) and hop on a train or bus, or pick up your rental car from the airport.

// By train

From Gijón or Oviedo (the two places most people day trip to Cudillero from), catch one of the FEVE trains that travel directly to Cudillero. A round trip coasts around €7 per person, and from Gijon the journey is approximately 1.5 hours.

Alternatively, you could consider travelling to Avilés by bus and then taking the train between Avilés and Cudillero.

Be aware that Cudillero station is a 20-minute walk from the centre of the village.

You can check train and bus times, plus books tickets, here.

Where to Next?

If you’re keen to explore more of northern Spain, be sure to check out our guides to other towns in Asturias, and the neighbouring regions of Cantabria, The Basque Country and Galicia.

A Wonderful Northern Spain Road Trip Itinerary

9 Places You Can’t Miss in Asturias

8 Reasons You Should Book That Flight to Santiago de Compostela

Making Passion a Reality in Cantabria

The Basque Country | More Than Just the Bilbao Effect?


Be Inspired by Spain