Looking for the top things to do in Essaouira, Morocco or our top tips for restaurants and riads?
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Fully Updated November 2023
“Have you stayed longer than a week? No? That’s good, you might get home. If you stay in Essaouira for longer than a week, you’ll never leave!”
Essaouira is the town we almost didn't make it to.
Before arriving in Morocco, and in our first few days in Marrakech, many people said it wasn't worth a visit. For them, this outpost on the Atlantic coast was windy, a little ugly and, if you did decide to make the journey, then a day was really enough.
Within minutes of arriving at the old city walls however, we knew they had made a mistake; this was our sort of place.
Here, within the blue and white confines of Essaouria's medina, is a different side of Morocco. A place for men to fish, for lazy afternoon strolls and steaming pots of mint tea enjoyed overlooking the ocean. After five days amongst the frenetic souks and streets of the country's biggest tourist draw, the peace and tranquillity that oozes from the pores of this delightful seaside town is as intoxicating as it is soothing.
We planned for two days - we left, reluctantly, after four.
Here are our favourite things to do in Essaouira, plus recommendations on the best places to stay and eat during your visit to this coastal city.
The Essaouira Essentials
Arrive / 3 hours from Marrakech, reach by bus, car or tour
Sports / Strong winds make it a great place to kitesurf
Wander / Explore & shop in the lively Medina (or discover it with a local on this popular walking tour)
Visit / The city’s many art galleries and museums
See / The vibrant fish market (and snap the blue boats)
Scale / The Skala du Port
Eat / At Café Berber for a good value local meal, or head to Dar Baba if you feel like something fancy
Drink / Grab a sunset drink from Taros
Stay / The gorgeous Salut Maroc!, our favourite Airbnb or if you’re on a budget, the gorgeous Hostel La Smala.
our favourite Things to do in Essaouira
Explore the medina
Essaouira's medina may be small, but that means it's perfect for exploring without fear of getting lost!
Small shop lined streets full of colourful blankets and rugs, wooden handicrafts, and delicious food shaded by the tall whitewashed buildings for which this town is known.
We also discovered that this is a great place for buying souvenirs or unique pieces for your house - especially if you don't enjoy the haggling process. Lots of stalls have fixed, advertised prices and even the ones that don't begin their bargaining at a much more reasonable position. We got a beautiful blanket for a fraction of what we were quoted in Marrakech.
Although a Moroccan medina is very much best discovered without much of a plan, to orient yourself in the first day or two, it's worth knowing that the two main streets within the medina are Avenue Sidi Mohamed Ben Abdellah and Avenue Mohamed Zerktouni (which is where you'll want to head to stock up on fruit and veg too).
Some specific stores and ateliers to stop by include:
If you just can’t get the hang of bartering, stop by the charming Histoire de Filles (maps) which focuses on modern Moroccan fashion, accessories and jewellery and has a lovely little cafe.
For those more interested in beautiful homeware, don’t miss L’Atelier (maps) which combines a cafe, houseware boutique and cooking school under one stylish roof.
Want to bring back the aroma of Morocco from your trip? Stop by Côté Bougie which sells scented candles and diffusers. Find it here.
If you'‘ll be in town for the weekend, be sure to check out the joutia, or Sunday flea market. A veritable smorgasbord of retro bric-a-brac, cheap clothes, fresh produce and - if you’re lucky - a very special souvenir.
Check out the local museums & Galleries
Essaouira has developed quite the burgeoning art scene in the last few years, with artists from near and far, with a variety of passions and specialities, drawn in by the town’s colours, bohemian vibes and relaxed atmosphere.
Frédéric Damgaard Art Gallery | Created in 1988 by Mr Frédéric Damgaard, a Danish art enthusiast, this was the very first gallery opened in Essaouira. With a focus on bright and colourful pieces by Essaouira's local painters and sculptors, it provides a fantastic insight into the local Gnawa culture. You can find the gallery here.
Le Real Mogador | Housed in the former Italian Consulate and now a beautifully restored home, Le Real Mogador showcases a rotating selection of modern works from a wide variety of national and international artists. The works of art by themselves are a reason to visit, but the beautiful building within which they are housed is the icing on the cake - definitely a must-do on any Essaouira itinerary! We believe it is now open every afternoon from 3pm, but outside of these hours is by appointment only. Find the gallery here.
Kasbah Gallery | Housed with a magnificent 18th century riad from, the Kasbah Gallery focuses not only on wide selection of artistic styles, but also historical artefacts and unusual objects. A rambling two-level space, the lower floor focuses on the naïve art style of Souiris artists, whilst the above floor exhibits beautiful furniture (including stunning carved doors), sculptures, pottery, bronzes and carpets that weave the rich history of this port town.
Elizir Gallery | is a meandering, hodgepodge emporium with offerings including vintage furniture, movie posters and oil paintings. Find the gallery here.
Bayt Dakira (maps) | Back in the 19th and early 20th centuries, Essaouira had a vibrant Jewish population, and the museum hopes to offer a window into their lives. It’s free to enter but note that most of the signs are in Arabic and French. If this sounds up your street, then consider also stopping by the old Jewish cemetery and the Haim Pinto Synagogue (the caretaker will happily show you around and provide a bit of history).
Sidi Mohammed ben Abdallah Museum* | Housed in an old 19th century riad, the Sidi Mohammed ben Abdallah Museum may not be a must-do in Essaouria, but the collection of old musical instruments, ritualistic devices, weapons and traditional dress is a pretty good excuse to get away from the sun for an hour - and if nothing else, that staircase is made for the 'gram!
*It appears that this museum may no longer exist, but we cannot 100% confirm it online. Should you visit and know definitively one way or another, we’d be delighted to hear from you in the comments. Thanks!
Similarly, Espace Othello which used to showcase the works of emerging artists also appear to have now shut. If you know otherwise please do let us know.
Check out the fish market
Wizened old men and giant nets, the salty smell of the ocean and icy fish spread out across old wooden tables. Long before the tourists arrived, people were making a living here off of the sea - for many, times have not changed.
Visit in the early hours of the morning for the chance to see the fishermen returning with the catch, or meander down to the harbour before lunch to witness the daily haggle for the fruits of the ocean.
Even if not in the mood to buy, this is an excellent place to people watch, and a dream for photographers like us - check out our Essaouira fish market photography post (published soon), and discover why you'd be crazy to forget your camera!
To avoid confusion, we have to let you know there are actually two fish markets in Essaouira. Our favourite to experience was by the harbour, but there is also an indoor one on Avenue Mohamed Zerktouni (here on Google Maps). Many visitors to the town love to buy a fresh fish from either market and take it to a restaurant who will grill it for a small fee.
Go snap happy for the blue boats
Search google images for Essaouira, and the results you get back will almost certainly be full of the most picturesque little blue boats!
Yet, this wonderful shade of colour is not an accident, or there purely to create a pretty tourist picture. No, the blue that covers the hull of every boat and adorns the shutters of every window here speaks of 3,000 years of history, and of the colour harvested from the shells found on the Purple Islands that protect Essaouira from the open sea.
Top tip // If you’re in Essaouira for a few days and would like to orientate yourself, learn more about Essaouira’s history and discover some of its hidden gems or just visiting for the day and want to cram in as much as possible, consider joining a guided tour such as this hugely popular and well-priced 2.5 hour walking tour. Alternatively, if you’d like a little longer to get to grips with Essaouira, this 4 hour option is also highly rated and takes in all the major city sites.
Spend some time at the beach - just be prepared for the wind!
Arriving into Essaouira, it's clear that this is a place popular with tourists. What isn't so clear however, is why it hasn't become just another resort. To answer that, we'd recommend you spend a few hours at the beach. The trade winds (known as alizee) that keep this town pleasantly cool during the hot summer months are the same that will ensure that you leave the beach with sandy second skin - it’s the reason that Essaouira is known as the ‘Windy City of Africa’.
Still, on a beautiful sunny day, there will be few better places to sit and relax - and drink a covert brown paper bag covered beer
Into watersports however? Then this may just be the perfect spot for you - in fact, die-hard windsurfers come from all over the world just to enjoy the constant wind that Essaouira enjoys. If you're unable to bring your own equipment, you'll be pleased to hear that renting it is incredibly easy with several reputable companies in town. One week rental starts at £160 GBP (dependent upon time of year), and discounts will be given for longer periods. Alternatively, you could also consider staying at one of several surf camps nearby for an intensive course.
Surfing is also a big thing in Essaouira, so if you fancy giving it a go, consider booking this highly-rated two hour surf lesson, with all equipment included.
It wasn’t open when we visited, but if any place goes to show how much Essaouira is becoming the place for a Moroccan seaside escape, it’s Ocean Vagabond (maps), a gorgeous albeit quite bougie beach club and restaurant at the southern point of Essaouira’s long wild beach. The food reviews are excellent, and it’s a great spot to grab a beer and stare out to sea!
Top Tip // Jimi Hendrix is a bit of an icon in these parts following a short stain the city back in the late 1960s, and legend has it that his song ‘Castles Made of Sand’ was inspired by the ruins of an actual sand castle called Dar Sultan. You can reach this castle by walking to the far south of Essaouira’s beach - past Ocean Vagabond - where you will reach a river; cross this river and walk left across the dunes until you see it. It’s around a 45 minute walk from Essaouira, and you can find it here on Google Maps.
Like the idea of exploring this section of the beach and Diabat but don’t fancy the walk? Take a look at this highly-rated one hour camel ride - especially nice at sunset.
Take a day trip to Sidi Kouki
Cheap fresh seafood, roaming donkeys, wide, never ending beaches and excellent surf (for both beginners and pros) - we almost don't want to tell you about this wonderful little surf village, just half an hour outside of Essaouira.
You could easily lose yourself here for a few days or weeks, but it’s also perfect for a day trip.
Piqued your interest? Then read our guide to Sidi Kouki, and then head to this one to find out how to get there.
Travel Tip // Looking for a day trip with a little more adventure, consider a quad bike tour! This excellent three hour adrenaline-fuelled tour takes you across dunes, wild beaches and to abandoned castles.
Alternatively, consider this super popular horse riding tour. At just one hour long, it’s the perfect introduction for those with little experience, or the ideal opportunity for more experienced to gallop along the beach!
Scale the Skala du Port
Essaouira has gained modern notoriety for its role in Game of Thrones - so you can imagine how disappointed we were to discover that the ramparts were closed for building works at the time of our visit (completely scuppered Andrew's plans to don a long blonde wig and pretend to be Daenerys for the day!).
Thankfully, Skala du Port (the fort that also features in the TV show) was open for business - and provided better views over the medina than we could ever have hoped!
Our top tip? Head up later in the day when there are fewer tourists and better, softer light - after all, this is by far one of the top things to do in Essaouira, you better get a good photo!
The Details | The Skala du Port is open every day from 9am to 5pm, and entry costs 60 Dh per adult, and 25 Dh per child (a quite marked increase over the last few years).
To reach it, simply head towards the waterfront, where the Skala du Port is difficult to miss - if in doubt can be found here on Google Maps.
Where to eat & Drink in Essaouira
Taverna bolognese da Maurizio | Owned and run by a delightful Italian chap, this place serves up some of the best pasta we've tasted in a while. Cheap (you can get a basic dish for around 50 dirham) with good size portions - so good we ate there twice! Find it here.
Café Berber |A small family run restaurant with just four tables and walls decorated with boxing memorabilia (the father/husband member of the family is a top-notch boxing coach by all accounts). The meals are not fancy, and there are only a handful of dishes on the menu, but order one of each and get ready for one the best and most authentic meals you'll have in Morocco! Best of all? Two people can eat until they're stuffed and pay only 100 dirhams! If you've read our post on travel costs in Morocco, you'll know that's an absolute bargain.
We loved this little gem so much and were gutted when we went back on our last night to see that it was shut for the evening - so if you're only here for a night or two, don't leave it too late! Find it here.
Patisserie Driss | Given the historical connection with France, it’s relatively common to encounter French pastries across Morocco, but if you want to try some of the country’s best French pastries, make a beeline for Patisserie Driss. Either grab something to take away or head to their semi-hidden terrace for a slow breakfast. Note that due to their popularity they do sell out relatively quickly, so better to make this an early-is stop! Find it here.
Restaurant Le Sirocco | Fusing traditional modern dishes with french cuisine, this charming restaurant (with excellent live music) is an ideal date night spot. Also offer a decent wine list. Find it here.
The Loft | Super cool design, a lovely shaded terrace and excellent food. Sure, it's a little pricey, but if you've been eating tagine all week, the menu here will delight and surprise! Excellent veggie options too. Find it here.
Caravane Cafe | One of the more unique places to eat in Essaouira, Caravan Cafe is part art gallery, part shop, part tea room, and part restaurant, all across individual little living rooms, of varying styles. Known for its live music offerings and excellent international menu. Find it here.
Taros | There are a number outdoor restaurants around the main square, but if you’re looking for the best place to enjoy that sunset glass of wine, we recommend heading up to the terrace at Taros. Find it here.
Another excellent rooftop bar for sunset views is that food atop the chic hotel, Salut Maroc but if you’d prefer live music, be sure to check out D’Jazzy that, as the name would suggest, specialises in jazz.
Dar Baba | This gorgeous restaurant - one of the most photogenic in town - features colourful décor alongside 1960’s inspired furnishings and offers a menu fusing European and Moroccan tapas alongside heartier plates. The drinks are also excellent. Find it here, and if you want to eat at the weekend, be sure to book a table.
Its meat-focussed menu and French-style cooking isn’t really our cup of tea, but the reviews at La Clé de Voûte are also excellent.
Top Tip // If you fancy a drink at your hostel / hotel (and it’s allowed), head to this ‘Libre Service’ just outside of Bab Doukala. They have a huge selection of spirits alongside fairly decent wines and beer. The shop is open from 10 am to 7.30 pm everyday except Fridays.
Where to stay in Essaouira
Whether you’re a budget backpacker or a couple looking for a luxurious hotel experience, Essaouira has a wide variety of accommodation options on offer.
Hotels | Riads
If riads are at the top of your most-wanted list (especially if you won’t have the opportunity to stay in one elsewhere in Morocco), then you'll be pleased to know that Essaouira has them in abundance - and at really fantastic rates! These ones amongst the best in the city:
Salut Maroc! | Our love of quirky design makes this fantastic riad our number one choice for Essaouira! Each room is individually styled with large, colourful handmade murals, the furniture is bespoke and the vibe unrivalled. Throw in the incredible roof terrace with views over the sea and the great breakfast and Salut Maroc is a fantastic option. Find out more here.
Riad Lunetoile | This really lovely little riad in the heart of the Medina offers small doubles bursting with seaside charm. With rooms from around £30 it’s also excellent value and has an amazing sea-view rooftop terrace to boot. There’s a reason it has such excellent reviews! Find out more here.
Dar Ness | Great location next to the beach.
Riad Chbante | The ‘loosen the purse strings’ splurge option located right on the city walls. The style, decor and furnishings are just beautiful - traditional but with a contemporary twist. The rooftop terrace is gorgeous in the summer, but given that most rooms have a private fireplace, Riad Chbante is a fantastic option for a winter visit. Find out more here.
If you’re a larger group or prefer your own place, then check out Jack's Apartments or one of the many excellent Airbnbs in Essaouira.
Airbnbs | Riads & Apartments
As testament to Essaouira’s expat community and its popularity, there are literally hundreds of riads in this coastal city on Airbnb - so many in fact that we’re in the process of putting together a short guide to our pick of the best.
Until that’s published, we’ve included a handful of our top picks below:
The charming two-bedroom Dar Lila
Eclectic, light and spacious one-bedroom apartment
The super stylish Atlantic, a 200 year old townhouse, is our pick for larger groups
But if you need even more space, take a look at this stunning 11-bed option - it’s gorgeous!
If you’re on a budget but craving your own space, Blue Caravan may be perfect.
For killer views in all directions, this delightful two-bedroom is ideal
Super modern, exquisite design and an incredible roof terrace, Le Petit-Havre d 'Essaouira is simply amazing!
Hostels
After nearly a week in a beautiful riad in Marrakech, it was the hostel scene in Essaouira that called to us.
Unfortunately, the incredible hostel we stayed in - Green Milk - is no longer operating but there are a number of other excellent alternatives.
Hostel La Smala | If grungy backpacker digs aren’t your thing but you still want to meet people on your travels or need to stick to a budget, look no further than Hostel La Smala. This new hostel features stunning contemporary design throughout, ingenious dorm configurations and a very boujee roof terrace. Find out more here.
The Chill Art | Located in the heart of the medina, this long-standing Essaouira hostel is part riad, part art canvas. The reviews are exceptional, the rooms quirky, dorms good, and free breakfast great. Find out more here.
Essaouira Beach Hostel | The location of this highly rated, popular hostel a good 10-15 minutes from the medina won’t suit everyone, but if you’re here to surf (kite or regular) or just chill out it may be ideal. Excellent communal areas and on-site restaurant, no guest kitchen though. Check prices and availability here.
Top Tip // If you've already done some research on where to stay in Essaouira, you'll probably come across Atlantic Hostel. After discussions with several previous guests who sought solace at Green Milk, it seems that its reputation as a dirty, party hostel is warranted. Unless you enjoy being kept awake by loudly played bongos until 5 a.m., it's probably worth giving it a miss. If you’ve been there recently and disagree with this, we’d love to hear from you in the comments so we can update this section!
How to get to Essaouira from Marrakech
Essaouira by Bus
Two bus companies operate this line (CTM and Supratours) with multiple departures every day. The journey takes just over 2.5 hours, and the cost varies between 90 and 120 dh dependent upon which company you travel with, and which service. Supratours appear to be the preferred company, although we travelled one way with each and can recommend both. Check their websites for up-to-date timetables.
Please note that luggage is charged extra, at around 5 - 10 dirhams for each piece that needs placing under the bus. Your hand luggage is free.
There are also direct buses from Casablanca with a journey time of around 6 hours.
A word of warning about taxis: if you arrive in the Supratours station, taking a taxi really isn't necessary as the entrance to the medina is located only a few minutes away. From the CTM station however, hailing a cab is definitely worth it - but be prepared to barter hard for your trip! The journey should cost no more than 30 dirhams, but it'll take a while to get it that low (and your would-be taxi driver might get a little grumpy at the haggle - ours certainly did!)
Essaouira by Taxi
If there’s a few of you travelling together, or you don’t fancy the bus, then consider a Grand Taxi fro Marrakech to Essaouira. The cost depends very much upon your negotiating skills - if you’re good, you may get it as low as 600 dh, but the going rate is between 600 - 900 dh.
To get one of these Grand Taxis, ask your Marrakech accommodation where the nearest official stop is. Do note that these usually only run during daylight hours.
Top Tip // If you don’t fancy haggling, but you still don’t want to take the bus, consider booking a private shuttle. This one takes groups up to four, whereas this one has a larger vehicle and transfer groups up to seven. Both have good reviews.
Essaouira by Car
If you’re planning on a Morocco road trip and will be including Essaouira on that itinerary, the good news is that driving between the two cities is relatively straightforward, with a journey time of around 2 - 2.5 hours depending upon traffic.
If you’re staying in the Medina you won’t be able to park at your accommodation but there is plentiful paid overnight parking at both Bab Marrakech, or near the fishing port at Bab Sbaa. Free on-street parking is likely available further afield, but we wouldn’t recommend heading too far from the medina for practicality and security’s sake.
Top Tip // We rarely go direct when hiring our road trip vehicles, instead preferring to use two popular rental aggregators to compare costs and find the best deal. The two companies we use are AutoEurope and RentalCars - both of which we have had excellent experiences with.
Additionally, if you do hire a car in Morocco, we highly recommend reading these two posts: Renting a Car in Morocco | Essential Things to Know and 21 Things to Know Before a Moroccan Road Trip.
Essaouira Tours From Marrakech
We honestly think that Essaouira is more than deserving of at least a couple of days, however we appreciate that not everyone has the luxury of time or perhaps simply wants to cover as much of Morocco as possible. In this case, there are a couple of excellent day trips you could consider:
With literally thousands of excellent reviews, this full-day group tour is our pick for those wanting to visit Essaouira from Marrakech, and also includes a visit to an Argan oil co-operative.
Alternatively, if you’d prefer a private tour, this full-day tour is a good option.
Good to Know // Whilst most visitors to Essaouira will arrive into Marrakech Airport, the city actually has its own small airport - Essaouira-Mogador Airport, or ESU for short. Located 15 kilometres from the centre of Essaouira, it offers flights to and from London, Brussels, Paris and Marseille, as well as some internal flight routes to alternative Moroccan cities.
Useful Things to Know Before You Visit Essaouira
- As with Marrakech, whilst the first language for most people in Essaouira is Arabic, you’ll find many in tourist establishments that will speak at least basic English. If you’re struggling - and you remember your high school French - give that a go instead, especially with the older generation.
- Whilst you can pay by card in some of the Essaouira’s fanciest hotels and the odd upmarket restaurant, plan on paying for your food, accommodation and transport in cash (and keep a reserve of small notes and change to give out the needy that may ask).
- You can find a number of ATMs in the main square.
- Essaouira is pleasant year-round destination but given that strong coastal wind, summer is an ideal time to visit. Just be aware that the sweltering temperatures elsewhere in the country mean that Essaouira can become very busy during these months. Similarly, that same wind can make the city rather chilly in the winter.
- Unlike Marrakech that has its fair share of scammers looking to take advantage of lost tourists, Essaouira has a much more laidback vibe to it. Of course, be sensible and don’t make yourself a target, but generally it’s considered a safe city and one where you can rely on locals to point you in the right direction should you go off course.
- And, if you're still wondering how to say the name of this fantastic place, then just say 'Esswera'.
