Want to visit the Semuc Champey pools in Guatemala? Our guide’s got you sorted!
Semuc Champey is undeniably the best natural swimming pool we’ve ever visited on our travels.
A decade ago though, we had grumpily left this place on a dull, overcast rainy season day certain that it wasn’t just overrated, but perhaps not worth the effort.
On our most recent trip, with endless dry season sunshine and slight hangover, we finally felt the magic.
One of Guatemala’s most famous destinations - and feature on nearly every first-timer’s itinerary - the super-sized fairy pools of Semuc Champey are found in a secluded jungle-covered canyon on the side of a dusty road. Although they require a bit of planning and effort to reach, and are a very long way to travel in order to effectively swim and sunbathe a bit, the setting, the hue of the blues, and the cascading layer cake levels of cool, deep pools and mini waterfalls is absolute perfection when conditions are right.
In our traveller’s guide to visiting Semuc Champey independently, we want to share everything you really need to know to make the most of your time at the pools and the surrounding area of Lanquin. Alongside practical advice and travel better tips on transport connections in + out, tours, safety, what to bring and where to stay, you’ll have the right context to confidently plan your visit, know where to slot it into your Guatemala itinerary, and avoid a few common mistakes along the way.
This is 10 Things To Know Before You Visit Semuc Champey, Guatemala.
semuc champey essentials
/ Stunning series of tiered turquoise natural limestone pools in central Guatemala
/ 7-9 hour journey required to reach nearest town of Lanquin from Antigua, Flores, and Lake Atitlan
/ Semuc Champey is a 1-hour truck ride or 2+ hour walk down a dusty road from Lanquin
/ Best to visit in dry season (November-April), and avoid weekends if possible.
/ 50Q (£5/$6) per person to enter, no tour or guide required
/ The mirador hike is worth it, but go in the opposite direction - and swim lots!
/ Bring cash, water, swimsuit, snacks, a towel, and suncream
/ A min. stay of two nights is required, and we recommend Greengo’s Hostel right by the entrance
The Origins & Beauty of Semuc Champey
A 300-metre stretch of limestone formed naturally over the Cahabón River a very long time ago, and that limestone ‘bridge’ constitutes much of what we know today as Semuc Champey.
However, when it comes to visiting, it is the stepped pools, shaped and hewn by natural spring water flowing over the bridge’s porous rock, that everyone means by Semuc Champey.
The whole site covers a pretty big, natural area but, after the ticket office, everyone is kept to new wooden walkways, a steep trail up to the mirador (viewpoint), and two main pool and hangout areas.
Most come to spend a morning, afternoon, or a whole day, swimming in the cool waters, sunbathing and reading on the rocks, doing the walk up to the main viewpoint, and enjoying the beautiful natural surroundings.
It really is stunning in person, rather than being one of those Insta-famous places where the reality lets you down.
That unique beauty is also a difference-maker, otherwise most people wouldn’t contemplate or tolerate the two days of long, sweaty bus rides required to travel in and travel onward to your next destination in Guatemala.
The truth is that, once you’re in Semuc, it’s pretty straight forward on what to do and see - but the key is your transport and logistics to Lanquin and the site, plus deciding whether to stay by the pools or 15km away in town.
We’ll take care of those point in the next sections, then we’ll move swiftly on to the advice for making the most of your time there!
All Roads Lead to Lanquin…
Despite being firmly established as one of the best things to do in Guatemala, and a first draft entry on both short and slower routes through Central America, Semuc Champey is actually quite out of the way.
In fact, very few travellers would make it to the small town of Lanquin if it wasn’t the gateway to Semuc.
Thankfully, a stop here for two or three nights offers a natural break between long days of travel between Flores and Tikal in the distant north, and Antigua or Lake Atitlan to the southwest. The majority of travellers will be arriving from, or travelling onward to those destinations, and Semuc offers the chance to do one long shuttle bus journey (7-10 hours), spend a few days relaxing at Semuc and by the pool in a gorgeous hostel, before then embarking on another long journey north or southwest.
Aside from Semuc’s beauty, being a practical stop-off point breaks up what would otherwise be a challenging and unenjoyable two-day journey in hot, cramped, buses along mountain roads (or everyone flying from Flores-Guatemala City).
For the majority of you, Lanquin & Semuc will be either your second or penultimate stop in Guatemala, depending on whether you’re just coming in from Belize / eastern Mexico or heading in that direction next.
…And You Should Take The SHuttle Bus THere
Here at Along Dusty Roads, we are massive proponents of independent travel and using the ‘chicken bus’ and colectivo network in Guatemala. On our two-year trip from Mexico to Argentina, we pretty much exclusively got around like that, and nearly all journeys on recent visits to Central America have been with public transport.
Too many people are paranoid about doing it that way but, it’s far more interesting and insightful than depending on dull AF and overpriced tourist shuttle bus journeys.
HOWEVER, we really do think it’s best to take one of the shuttle buses to Lanquin.
We’ve done the journey twice: once by public transport involving up to three or four connections, and the last time by direct shuttle from Antigua. The former takes at least 14 hours if all goes well, whilst the shuttles can be usually get you there in under 11 hours or so.
Given that it’s a long old journey to reach Lanquin already, it really does make more sense to travel there with a tourist shuttle bus. Quite apart from the distances involved, the shuttles offer much more certainty that you don’t need to spend a random night somewhere if something goes wrong (this actually happened to us when we did it with public transport 10 years ago, and the mountain roads haven’t really improved much since).
You are able to easily book a shuttle to Lanquin from Antigua online here and at any hostel / agency in the destination from which you’re departing - note that you usually need to be book these before 4pm the day before travel to ensure a place. Also, these buses can and do fill up in high season.
Most shuttles arrive in Lanquin between 4-6pm, and typical journey times are:
· Antigua to Lanquin | 9 hours | 250Q - 320Q | book here
· Lake Atitlan to Lanquin | 10.5 hours | 300Q - 390Q | book here
· Flores to Lanquin | 9 hours | 230Q - 320Q | book here
Note that there are also overnight shuttles available (which would give you an early morning arrival) but due to safety concerns, these are not recommended by us or most hostels.
Unlike overnights buses in Mexico and South America, those currently available in Guatemala do not offer aircon or comfort, and there are legitimate safety concerns the road conditions and hold ups. More certain is the fact you’d have a terrible night’s sleep, so any time and money-saving rationale is moot.
Travel Tip // Most hostels based outside Lanquin include free pick-ups for guests, and co-ordinate this with daily shuttle buse arrivals. Onward travel time along the bumpy, dusty Semuc Champey road can take 45-60 minutes.
You Need At Least Two Nights in Lanquin
Due to lengthy travel times, late afternoon arrivals in Lanquin, and the fact that onward shuttles all leave in the early morning, the only way to meaningfully visit Semuc Champey is to spend a minimum of two nights at accommodation in and around Lanquin.
Now, for the good news.
Whilst Lanquin has a few other things to do, the hostels up here have REALLY upped their game.
The best offer up a resort-like setting and feel for travellers, and two or three are now firmly established amongst Guatemala’s very best hostels - Zephyr Lodge was actually awarded Central America’s best hostel recently!
We arrived here after our week on Lake Atitlan, and were surprised at how the social vibe and facilities offered by hostels here is actually waaaay closer to what travellers expect / hope to find by the lake: a bit of drinking, hanging out in and by the pool, decent food, and a well-planned environment make all the difference sometimes, and we were happy to have booked three nights.
So, our advice to you is, if you have time and the inclination, tacking on an extra night here will usually be a good decision in dry season (especially if you’re on a longer or slower trip and wanting a couple chill days to do nothing and reset).
And, whilst we’d usually encourage staying in guesthouses or small hostels, it really will add to your overall experience if you opt for one of the hostels which is specifically set up for travellers to hang out and enjoy themselves, or a place by the river.
The main thing to work out is whether you want to stay at one in the town or on the Semuc Champey road.
Here are our recommendations:
Greengo’s | This is where we stayed for three nights, and really enjoyed it. The eating/drinking/bar area is well-designed, they serve very decent food, and have a lovely pool area. We’d say this is a social hostel, rather than a party hostel. They are also located just five-minutes walk from the entrance to Semuc Champey. For the private cabins, you may find more availability here.
El Portal De Champey | This is also really close to the entrance.
Zephyr Lodge | A longstanding favourite in Lanquin, but this is more of a party hostel.
Utopia Eco Hotel | A beautiful, more chilled and peaceful alternative on the Semuc Champey road
Ch'i Bocól Community Hostel | Another on the road to Semuc Champey, with great reviews and lovely nature-filled location by the river
Mountain Nest | Fancier wood and stone cabins with peaceful mountain and cloud view, but in a more remote location - one for travellers who want peace and quiet
Casa Mary | If budget is the main concern for your base, then this basic guesthouse in Lanquin is really highly-rated.
Travel Tip // If there’s no availability or some are beyond your budget, note that Zephyr and Greengo’s offer day passes to non-guests. Also, at any hostel that operates a tab system, our advice is to try and keep a rough tally of your consumption.
Note that there is only one or two ATMs in Lanquin, and a number of accommodations unfortunately still charge 5-6% for card payments. We highly recommend arriving with enough cash (plus a little bit extra) to cover two or three social days, plus your onward shuttle.
How To Get To Semuc Champey | 4 Options
Two quick points here:
· the way to make the very most of Semuc Champey is to have time on your side
· you don’t need a tour to visit Semuc Champey
Whilst all hostels and agencies - plus several online - offer a combined tour with transport and a couple of other activities included, it’s really not necessary as you can easily make it to the pools independently and inexpensively with the regular pick-up trucks or walking from your accommodation.
Also, arriving in Semuc with a group and only a couple of hours at peak time, will limit your ability to enjoy what makes this place so special.
So, once you’ve made it to Lanquin or nearby, the final thing to sort out is how to get to the bloody pools! Whilst it’s just 3 miles from Lanquin, the road to the Semuc Champey entrance is still unpaved, dusty, and bumpy. You have four options:
Stay In A Hostel Near The Entrance | As covered already, if you stay at Greengo’s or El Portal, you’ll be a 5-10 minute walk from the entrance. Others on the Semuc road will require a bit longer.
By the way, all these hostels located on the Semuc road collect their guests in Lanquin on arrival (usually free).
Catch The Pick Up Trucks in Lanquin | If you stay in one of the hostels in Lanquin, just hop on one of the regular pick-up trucks. You can wait for them by the Parque Central (here on Google Maps), and they take about 30 minutes to reach the entrance. One-way journeys cost 20-25Q per person, depending on the driver, and the trucks run from around 7am.
For the return journey, you’ll find them waiting in car park.
Walk It | This is the option we took a decade ago from El Retiro (the first place we stayed in Lanquin) to save some money, where many of our ideas and plans for Along Dusty Roads were developed. The 11km walk is along the same road the pick-up trucks take and does have some lovely scenery and moments, but will last about 2.5 - 3 hours.
Going the long way to places is a big part of our slow travel style, so we won’t put you off doing it but just be aware that you would need to set off early to beat the heat and avoid the peak crowds at Semuc.
If you do it, we highly recommend jumping in the truck for the return journey.
A Tour | You can also stay just in Lanquin and join one of the many tours offers by hostels and agencies. These cost around $20USD, and usually include your round-trip transport, the cave and / OR rafting.
The Pools & The Mirador Hike
Ok, we promise that’s the last point on logistics!
Once you arrive in the car park, pay your entrance at the ticket office- it’s cash only, and the cost is 50Q per person for foreign visitors.
From there, you’re a few minutes walk along a flat dusty road to the first pool area on the right, the main mirador hike entrance signposted on the left, or you can continue on for a few minutes along the wooden walkways to reach the second, larger pool area.
The Lower Cascada Pools | The first section you’ll arrive at. With deep pools as well as several shallower ones, it offers more space to find a secluded spot for the day; it can be slightly more difficult to access certain parts due to slippy rocks or the need to swim over.
The Upper Descanso Area | Due to the lockers, decking and more space for seating areas, plus a wooden walkway leading you right to the water, this is the most popular and crowded area for local families and groups of friends.
You will visit and spend time in both but, if visiting on a busy weekend or holiday, the lower pools will probably be the best option to find a good spot for a few hours.
However, most people opt to walk up the mirador trail to enjoy a bird’s eye view over the pools. Whilst it can be quite a sweaty and tiring ascent in the heat and humidity, this is the only place to get that classic view overlooking all of Semuc Champey, so don’t miss out.
Our tip is to skip the main entrance and continue on along the wooden walkways to the ‘Upper Descanso’ area, where you’ll see a green and yellow sign for ‘pozas’ and ‘sumidero’: follow the sumidero one and this will allow you to do the hike up in reverse.
Aside from being less crowded and letting you have the chance to see / enjoy the pools first, thereby avoiding being behind a long line of people struggling up the stairs, it was also less steep and much easier than the other way. It took us 25 minutes to reach the top.
Once you’ve made it to the single, easy to spot mirador deck, you may have to join a queue where a chap with a whilstle annoyingly limits you to about 30 seconds to look out and take photos! However, this was likely due to the fact we visited on a busy Sunday, and during the week you’d likely have more time to enjoy it.
If you follow our advice, you’ll exit at The Lower Cascada Pools, but whichever way you go up to the mirador, you’ll only be a few steps away from a pool to cool off in at the end and then enjoy the rest of your time here.
Turn Up Early, FACILITIES + What To Bring
· Another reason we chose to stay at Greengo’s was its proximity to the entrance, meaning we could walk over and be one of the first to enter and have glimpse of an empty Semuc Champey*. As we have mentioned, the pools are an incredibly popular day trip amongst foreign as well as local tourists, and get busy quickly.
Even if you stay in one of the hostels in town, we highly recommend getting the first truck over to Semuc to ensure you’re there as early as possible.
We have heard that it clears out in the late afternoon, and so arriving later is an option but but there is no guarantee.
*Just be aware that given the height of the sun in the hour or so after it opens, not all the pools were in bright light when we arrived.
· Entry fees must be paid in cash, so be prepared.
· Google Maps says it’s shut on Sundays (a squeaky bum moment given that was the day we were going) but it was 100% open!
· There are a few changing rooms and bathrooms on the trail in, and a collection of wooden lockers you are free to use (bring your own padlock though).
We saw lots of people with their bags at the water’s edge, but Semuc’s busyness - and therefore potential for things to disappear without you noticing - mean’s it is imperative that you keep a close eye on your valuables.
· Be aware that there are no shops or vendors inside the park. If you’re planning on spending the day at the pools, you therefore have two options for food: either bring snacks or a little makeshift picnic with you, or opt for one of the basic restaurants outside the entrance. We were told that it’s possible to leave for food and then come back in, but we’d recommend double checking before heading to the exit.
· There are lifeguards dotted about the pools.
· Lots of Guatemalans wear sea slippers but, unless you have them already for your trip, they’re not necessary - just be super careful on the rocks as some can be very slippy. Other things to bring include a towel, sunscreen (reefsafe is best so as not to contaminate the water), a travel filter water bottle that you can fill up from the pools as you require.
· Compared to some natural attractions we’ve visited in Guatemala, Semuc Champey is incredibly clean; keep it this way by taking everything back out with you and leaving no trace.
WHAT’S THE Best Time To Visit Semuc Champey?
Having visited Semuc Champey in rainy + dry seasons, we can say unequivocally that you will have a much more enjoyable time if you come here during the sunny, hot months of November - April.
The main reason to visit Semuc is to swim, bathe, cool off in the refreshing water, and hang out on the rocks in the sunshine. Whilst the temperatures in Lanquin remain relatively high in the wetter months, the colours don’t pop as much under a cloudy sky, there can be drizzle and mist, the waters can becomes brown or cloudy, and it feels much less like the place you’ve seen a million times on Instagram.
The rocks would also be incredibly slippy, and the trails and arrival roads more of a churn, thereby extending travel in times from elsewhere in Guatemala.
Additionally - and perhaps most importantly for those only planning a night or two here - following particularly heavy downpours, it’s not uncommon for Semuc Champey to close due to flooding of the river.
More importantly though, we recommend trying to time your visit to avoid weekends and national holidays (we wouldn’t go anywhere near Semuc during Semana Santa). Although it is culturally interesting and charming to see local families picnicking and enjoy the pools, the crowds on weekends - particularly Sundays - can take away some of the magic and make several areas and pools very busy.
Using a Drone in Semuc Champey
If you don’t travel with a drone, feel free to skip over this section, but given the lack of definitive information available online, and our somewhat stressful experience, we feel this topic requires a little clarification.
Okay, first things first, we can confirm unequivocally that there are currently no signs anywhere within Semuc Champey that state you cannot use drones, and we have seen countless images across foreign and local Instagram account and websites.
There is however a sign at the entrance stating that ‘commercial filming’ requires an additional fee of 2000Q; we believe that this is something quite different, especially if only capturing images.
Before arriving, we confirmed with our hostel whether using a drone was prohibited, and they kindly let us know that whilst there are technically no rules against it, if seen flying one, one of the lifeguards may ask us to pay the full 2000Q.
And that is exactly what happened to us - within 10 minutes of sending the drone up from a suitable spot, a super young lifeguard came over and asked whether we had paid the commercial filming fee. When we responded that we hadn't, insisting that it was not mentioned anywhere that drones weren’t allowed and this wasn’t what we were doing, he said that we could instead just give 200Q to him instead which would cover it.
With no paperwork, naturally.
He basically requested a backhander - which, begrudgingly, we paid after contesting the case for another five minutes.
Since returning to the UK, we have discovered a few more examples of this scam-like behaviour on various websites and forums so it’s clearly something which happens a lot.
We rarely fly our drone and always respect signs banning them or stating permission is required, and they really need to get this up in Semuc or clarify the situation vs. commercial work.
Our advice for those keen to capture drone images or video at Semuc Champey is to be prepared to hand over some cash. This may be particularly galling if flying a drone is purely a hobby and can in no way be construed as commercial, but it’s unlikely that you’ll be unable to talk your way out of the situation.
Or, just leave it in the hostel and enjoy the water.
Tip / If you’re looking to invest in a great photography + tech travel bag, we use and recommend the PRVKE backpack by WANDRD
What Else To Do in Languin
Take on Cuevas de K’anba
Armed with just a lit candle, no safety equipment and an increasing fear that you may not make it out the other side, exploring the K’an Ba Caves are not for the faint of heart.
Depending upon the size of your group, the tour lasts approximately an hour and involves a mile long assault course of swimming, climbing, scrambling and squeezing through crevices - all the while, trying to keep your candle alight and out of the water.
It’s fair to say it’s probably not the sort of thing that would be legal in many other parts of the world, and carries with it a number of genuine risks to your safety (especially when you consider that you’re several hours from any decent sort of hospital).
Which is exactly why some people love it, others hate it, and we decided it was an activity we could miss. We push our limits a lot when we travel, but spending our extra day by the hostel pool won out this time.
If you’re feeling a little braver than us, to visit the caves you have a couple of options - either join a tour which usually includes Semuc Champey or tubing (more on that below), or if you’re visiting the pools independently, just walk the 400 metres to the entrance - find it here on Google Maps.
Tour prices vary from 100Q to 200Q depending upon what combo of activities are included, and pretty much every hotel + hostel will offer this.
Entrance to the cave costs 60Q per person (and includes a guide), and tours run every 30 minutes between 9am and 3pm.
N.B. Do not attempt this in flip flops - you will lose them! If that’s your only option, consider renting a pair of water slippers for 35Q.
Tubing
Like Vang Vieng in Laos, and Palomino in Colombia, one of the most popular things to do in Lanquin is grab yourself an inflatable doughnut and float along the river.
In the dry season, this can be quite a sedate activity, with the slow flowing river allowing you to enjoy a cold beer or two (bought from one of the enterprising salespeople that trace the course of the river with chilled cans) as you slowly drift downstream.
Doing this activity in the rainy season however can be a much more exhilarating experience - just be aware that if the water level gets too high, this it can be cancelled for safety reasons.
As we mentioned above, this activity is usually combined with Semuc Champey or the K’an Ba Caves but locals also wait by the bridge near the entrance to the pool and offer inner tyre rental for Q50 each.
Travel Tip // When we left Semuc Champey, a local gentleman in the white and green Semuc Champey guides t-shirts offered to take us caving (70Q, one hour) and tubing (60Q, tubing). This was more expensive than our hostel that offered it for 100Q per person, but we got the distinct impression that he would be open to negotiation - especially if you were in a slightly larger group.
Other Things to Do
For those feeling particularly energetic, there are a number of hikes in the area. You can find several options here, but it’s also a good idea to check with your accommodation, especially if visiting in rainy season when some trails may become impassable.
If you’re just wanting to chill however, then you’re absolutely in the right place. As mentioned, the accommodation options are top notch here, with amazing pools and chill-out areas and it’s completely acceptable to spend at least a day doing absolutely nothing!
We know how tiring travel can be, especially if you’re trying to cover a lot of ground in a relatively short period of time, so Semuc Champey offers up the perfect opportunity to recharge for the next adventure.
