Planning a day trip or few nights by the sea in Las Peñitas, Nicaragua? Our guide’s got you sorted!

Updated December 2023

Nicaragua is famous for its surf and its beaches, but most of the chatter is weighted toward the stretches and enclaves south of Managua.

Stopping off at places like San Juan del Sur and Popoyo, just a hop across the Costa Rican border, are no-brainers for those who ride the waves, and they’re always popular with backpackers due to the vibe and gorgeous setting on the Pacific Coast.

The quiet northern stretch from El Transito up to Jiquilillo definitely goes comparatively under the radar.

Las Peñitas, just a thirty minute ride in a big old school bus from the revolutionary city of León, is the place which may change that.

Not an off-the-beaten path destination due how many travellers pass through León, but it certainly isn’t viewed as such an essential stop as the more developed traveller hubs further down the coast. Indeed, those travelling on shorter schedules could be forgiven for thinking that there’s no point taking up a day of their itinerary surfing here in the north when they’ve already factored in a week or so down south (that’s exactly what we did first time round in Nicaragua).

This little beach village and fishing community between two rivers and neighbouring a sprawling mangrove forest, is however certainly worthy of at least day of your time. If you’re based in León for a while and looking to escape the traffic, the bustle and the heat, or simply rest your aching limbs after several volcano summits, then it’s the ideal day trip to do independently and affordably. An excellent place to have your first surf lesson - at least until the waves become a frenzy of local experts and a clueless Italian man - with waves to rival more known breaks for the experienced.

In this post, we’ve shared everything you need to know to decide whether to visit Las Peñitas and perfectly plan your stay.

From transport tips from León, advice on what to do and the best places to stay, this is our travel guide to Las Peñitas, Nicaragua!

la Peñitas essentials

Arrive / Bus from Mercadito De Sutiava or hostel shuttle
Relax / Ideal spot to relax and enjoy the chill vibes
Surf / Good place to learn, with lessons and rental available on the beach or at hostels
Kayak / Take a trip to Juan Vendado Nature Reserve
Sunset / Gotta witness at least one - they’re epic!
Stay / At Mano a Mano and Simple Beach Lodge are our backpacker picks, or splurge at Aaki Hotel

How Long Do You Need In Las Peñitas?

Like other tourism-dependent beach and surf destinations in Nicaragua, the businesses of La Peñitas have had a very tough time since 2018, with government crackdowns and two years of covid effectively shutting down the travel industry. Although we witnessed the grassroots of recovery in early 2022, there are still a number of empty restaurants and accommodations, either closed down, for sale, or straddling the two statuses.

Things are just generally quieter too, but at least the only way is up.

That isn’t to put you off visiting, but just to share some essential context (which also applies to San Juan del Sur, Granada, and Ometepe).

A full day here, or arriving at least before noon, is ideal if you just want to surf, have lunch, and chill out with a beer or two. However, with salty hair and sand between your toes at sunset, you may be wishing that you could stay a little longer. There are a handful of really excellent traveller hostels as well as no-frills accommodation and a few slightly fancier guesthouses and lodges, with most of them right on the sand or set back just a street or two.

To make things easier, you could even store your big backpack at your hostel in León, and simply come out here with enough for a night or two.

It’s quiet in Las Peñitas, and there aren’t too many amenities or facilities - part of the attraction - and it’s not a big party hub; this was the case even before the pandemic. On the weekends though, it will be busier with more tourists and locals coming from the cities.

We would have been happy to disconnect and hang out here for two or three nights; if staying for longer, note that there are only a few basic shops, so you may want to go into León if you need anything specialist or cheaper.

You could also opt for Las Peñitas as an alternative base to León if you’re not a fan of staying in urban centres, and just go for a day trip into the city. This won’t work for most people, and will cause issues with volcano hike departure times and transport, but just wanted to float it here to help you plan!

How To Get To Las Peñitas from León

First things first, the only way to travel to Las Peñitas is via the city of León - an essential stop on the Nicaragua backpacker trail due to its pivotal role in the history of the country and proximity to several famous volcanoes.

There are three ways to do it:

The Chicken Bus

The bus to Las Peñitas departs from Mercadito De Sutiava, from a small bay outside the entrance to the market. It’s clearly marked by a black and white sign that states the route ‘León-Poneloya-Las Peñitas’, and you can find it here on Google Maps.

Unless you’re staying super close by, we’d recommend getting there with a cycle-taxi or a colectivo taxi (the León heat is no joke!).

We believe the first departures are from 5.00 am, and we were told there are buses every 40 to 60 minutes - however our bus however waited more than an hour to fill up, so this may sometimes be driver dependent.

If you turn up and the bus is near empty, ask the driver how much time you have...then grab something from the market or have a wander around it (we'd actually recommend buying a few snacks anyway to spread the impact of positive tourism spending). There’s a lot of life and activity going on on this road, so the time we spent just sitting and looking out the window was well-spent too!

The fare is 18 córdoba per person, and travel time is about 35 minutes. There should be no extra charge for your backpacks (see 23 Things To Know Before You Visit Nicaragua), and it can become standing room only as the journey progresses.

The last bus of the day leaves León at about 6pm, but we strongly recommend taking an earlier one so that you don't arrive in darkness.

The most important thing to note is that the bus arrives and turns at the far end of town (maps), technically in Poneloya, before turning round, going back and then going into Las Peñitas - so just stay on the bus and it'll let you off near the beach and hostels.

As we wanted to check out the whole area though (and not at all because Andrew got confused...), we actually got off at the far end and walked along the windswept Playa Poneloya so we could let you know what it's like.

Useless Info // This bus journey was also where we first heard perhaps the best song in the world - it’s impossible not to start dancing when you hear it for the first time.

The Shuttles

In the past there were several companies offering shuttles to and from Las Peñitas, but following the pandemic the numbers have dwindled somewhat; currently the only company we can definitively confirm runs the shuttle is Big Foot Hostel. (when were were there Volcano Day also had a daily shuttle but we’re not sure if it’s still running and can find no evidence on their website - if you’re reading this and confirm one way or another, we’d love to hear from you in the comments).

The shuttle runs everyday, leaving Léon at 3pm, and returning at 7pm, and the price varies depending upon option selected and whether you’re staying with them:

Return journey for non-guests costs $5
Return journey for guests costs $4 (you must book your bed online to get this deal)
If you hike or volcano board with them your return journey costs $3
For those that just need a lift back to Léon, you can jump on the return shuttle for $3
If you join a volcano boarding tour with them, you are entitled to a free return shuttle ride to the beach. These depart regularly between 3 pm and 7 pm, and you don’t have to hop on the shuttle on the same day as your tour.

If you pay for a return journey, you don’t have to return on the same day.

Do note that these shuttles only work if you’re either happy to spend just a few hours at the beach, or are wanting to overnight in Las Peñitas.

Personally, we'd rather save the cash, have the experience of the local bus and share those tourism dollars around!

A Taxi

If you're running late, travelling in a large group or are looking for a little more convenience, then you can get a private cab in León for $10-15 USD (some negotiation may be required).

Alternatively, there are colectivo taxis going between the two charging about the same as the bus per person. However, we only discovered this in Las Peñitas, waiting for the bus back to the city when a taxi was looking for fares - we unfortunately don’t know how easy this would be to secure directly from León.

Read More // 13 Wonderful Things To Do in León, Nicaragua

Things To Do in Las Peñitas, Nicaragua

To be honest, it's quite self-explanatory: surf, sunbathe, swim, eat, have a few cold beers, and maybe head out on a boat trip. Here's what you need to know:

The Beaches

There are two stretches of sandy beach: Playa Las Peñitas and Playa Poneloya.

Separated by some rocks and houses, the former is the main beach strip (maps) and home to a cluster of backpacker-friendly accommodations, colourful shacks and a few restaurants on the sand. As it's also the best surf and sunset point, it's where most of you will spend your day(s).

We walked along Playa Poneloya, which has a a number of holidays homes but looks like a tsunami ripped through some of them. At its northern side, before the river inlet, there's a cluster of very rudimentary beach huts and shelters on the northern side; this area, and this beach generally, are more set up for weekending Nicaraguans. There are also a few simple comedors and lodging options here too.

Although day trippers don't necessarily need to venture over here, it's worth taking a walk over if you're based in Las Peñitas, rather than just hanging out with the gringos on the other side.

The Surf

A great place for beginners or improvers, with a consistent and manageable year-round point break. If you've never tried to surf before, then this is as good a place as you'll find in Nicaragua, with prices also a bit cheaper than further south in Playa Maderas and San Juan del Sur.

The spot to head for is just in front of Simple Beach Lodge and the Playa Roca restaurant & hotel (maps).

If you're a beginner, just take a moment to watch where others are and get an idea of conditions / placement before jumping in. It's sandy underneath, but watch for the rocks under and over the waves on the left hand side (which we’re pretty sure are what gives this village its name - peñas means rocks, peñitas means little rocks).

This is a really pleasant environment for beginners, but just be aware that it can become quite competitive and congested once the very talented young locals guys arrive and the waves pick up. We'd actually say the onus is on the newbies to make space or choose to come back later, as evidenced by an Italian guy who had no idea, continually (and dangerously) getting in the way of the pros and other beginners.

Personally, it's more fun to pick up waves when there are fewer people to worry about getting in the way of!

Board rental is about $10 USD / day, negotiable for $5-6 if renting after lunch. As with all surf spots in the country, you can get a better rate if renting for several days. You can get boards at Simple Beach Lodge, but we rented from the little colourful shack on the right hand side (which is also a great spot to chill out with a beer for sunset).

Surf lessons cost $20 USD per person an hour / $35 for a couple together.

The Nature Reserve

Situated between two inlets, next to the ecologically-important mangrove forest, and a key aquaculture source/reserve in the dry heat of northern Nicaragua, the benefit of a longer stay in Las Peñitas is the opportunity to learn and explore beyond the beach.

The neighbouring Juan Vendado Nature Reserve (maps), one of about 70 protected reserves in the country, offers bird spotting amongst the untouched mangroves, a secret island, the opportunity to spy a crocodile and snakes, and a stop at a secluded beach. If you time it right, there's also the chance to see turtles nesting!

You can head out independently with a kayak through the narrow waterways of the estuary to San Juan Venado island for 3-4 hours, or go on a nature-spotting boat tour for 2-5 hours. Prices are aorund $12 USD per person for the kayaks, and $20-40 USD per person for the boat trips - the 100 C$100 / approx $3 USD to enter the Reserve is in addition.

We are independent travellers first and foremost but, for an experience like this, we think putting money toward a local guide is very worthwhile. Experiences of like this help to directly support sustainable local tourism, allows the protection of natural spaces and species, and encourages diversification in the type of traveller income and the beneficiaries of it in Las Peñitas.

You can find rentals and tours on the beach, or alternatively pop into Barca de Oro which offers kayak rental, or Mano a Mano which arranges guided tours.

The Turtles

The Reserve is also home to the Palo de Oro Ecotourism Project, a turtle hatchery and and conservation centre. Created in 2021, It offers simple oceanfront lodges - $15 per night per person, for a minimum of two nights and the only option within the reserve - tours, and volunteering opportunities.

Turtles nest here from May to November, but August to October is the key nesting season, and the Project employs a number of local families to patrol the 18km stretch of beach to protect the turtles and their eggs. If visiting during those months, there's the chance to join a (responsible + respectful) night walk to witness this amazing moment. Outwith those months, you can see baby turtles in their nursery, where they're supported before being released in to the Pacific.

Find out more about their work and how to visit, stay, or volunteer on their website.

The Sunsets

The last bus back to León is meant to go at 18.30, so we highly recommend day trippers savouring the gorgeous sunset on the rocks with a cocktail or a cold beer in hand, swinging in a hammock or hanging out in a rickety wooden chair.

It really is quite spectacular.

Where To Stay in Las Peñitas + Where To Eat

If you’re on quite a tight budget, it’s worth taking a look at the cheaper, simpler accommodations at the northern end of the beach; it’s on the south side of Playa Las Peñitas however, where the sand arcs round toward the rocky point and continues beyond, where you'll find the best options.

Due to the limited number of rooms at some of the traveller picks, we recommend booking ahead of your arrival (especially if planning on a weekend stay). Although it’s a lot quieter during the week, couples will definitely want to book private rooms in advance rather than just turning up.

Mano a Mano | If this wasn’t the day trip spot for Volcano Day’s shuttle, this cool eco-hostel would hands-down be our top pick for hostels in Las Peñitas. They offer yoga classes, a shared kitchen, surfboard rental & lessons, and have a funky treehouse vibe all built around sustainability - if you want to be around other travellers, definitely stay here. Find out more here.

Simple Beach Lodge | One of Las Peñitas most popular accommodations, Simple Beach Lodge is well designed, has a great on-site restaurant and large rooms - it’s also a fab spot to chill with a Toña at sunset. Do note that in our option the price per night is a little toppy. Check availability here.

Aaki Hotel | This contemporary, beach-front, boutique hotel is just stunning and ideal for those looking to splash out or wanting a break from the backpackers. Wonderful design features throughout, guests speak highly of the food and the attentive staff. Find out more here.

Another higher-spec accommodation to consider is Nayal Lodge Hotel.

Tapihouse | A solid budget option, Tapihouse offers basic but clean and comfortable rooms just a short walk from the beach. Highly rated, it has good communal areas and a large shared kitchen. Find out more here.

Caracolito Hostal | On the face of it, this hostel looks super cool in a laid-back, slightly hippy vibe but reading the reviews previous guests experiences seem somewhat mixed - in a big part because of the volunteers. If your Spanish is excellent and you appreciate a community vibe then definitely consider it, but be sure to check it’s your cup of tea before booking! Find out more here.

Casita de Playa BOMALU | Located towards the northern end of the beach, Bomalu is popular with weekending locals escaping the heat of León. Surprisingly well priced (with doubles from around $30 USD), it offers modern, clean and bright rooms, has an on-site restaurant and even a small pool. Find out more here.

Where to Eat in Las Peñitas

Simple Beach Lodge | We’ve already mentioned Simple as somewhere to stay but if you pick somewhere else, we can HIGHLY recommend their restaurant - especially the ceviche that was **chef’s kiss** amazing!

Playa Roca | Didn’t actually eat here, although we did sit down and plan on it - the prices (inflated even for beach side fare) put us off and they didn’t have any fish that day. We’d love to be proven wrong so if you have a great experience, let us know in the comments.

Beach Hostal Oasis | Whilst they also offer rooms, it’s the pleasant setting and simple menu that we’re recommending at Oasis. Find it here.

Cafe del Mar Comedor | This simple restaurant serves up large plates of fried fish, rice and beans at really great prices. Also does a decent traditional Nica breakfast. An excellent spot for authentic food on a backpacker’s budget!

SUA | Definitely the hippest place to eat in town, and somewhere that feels that little bit special (rather than just another beach shack), SUA has an incredible location right on the seafront, offers good cocktails and excellent food. Seafood offered as standard but it’s the pizza that seems to be popular! They also offer live music at the weekends. Find it here.

La Puesta del Sol Restaurante y Cabañas | It’s difficult to find decent Italian food in Nicaragua, but this spot - owned and run by actual Italians - may well satisfy those cravings! The menu is really impressive, they even make their own pasta and people rave about their tiramisu.

Unfortunately, it looks like one of our favourites, Mono Loco, has recently closed down.

How To Get Back To León

You can catch the bus back to the city if you stand on the dusty road outside Playa Roca and opposite Mono Loco (here on Google Maps). It’ll pass all along the road before looping at Barca del Oro, so you can catch it further down or further up as well - just make sure to stick your arm out.

It passed by roughly every 30-45 minutes.

The last bus is meant to pass by at 18.30, but we recommend double checking this with locals in case it’s changed! It eventually showed up for us at 18.50, but we had several colectivos (shared taxis) offer us a ride whilst we were waiting for 20 córdoba per person - a cracking deal to be fair, and one we would’ve taken them up on if we hadn’t thought it poor form to abandon an elderly American tourist who was also waiting for the bus (who then transpired on the ride back to be a complete conspiracy theory nut, and someone we should absolutely have left on the side of the road!).

If you do miss the last bus, we recommend asking an accommodation/restaurant to arrange a taxi for you, rather than trying to find one on your own after dark or jumping into any car that passes by.

The bus terminates back at the Mercadito (the same place it departs). From here you can get a colectivo (40 córdoba per person), cycle-taxi, or a private taxi back to your hostel, but after the last bus there are far fewer options available and it’s a bit deserted, so grabbing a waiting taxi is the best bet.

We actually walked up a couple of blocks to find a cycle-taxi and one of them, several beers down, agreed to take us for 60 córdoba (he informed us along the way that it was actually illegal for these licensed drivers to work / operate on certain streets after 6pm, with the potential risk of a 500 córdoba fine), so don’t count on one.