Considered one of Nicaragua’s best beaches, Playa Maderas has been popular surfers for years. The secret however is out and this small village and stretch of sand now attracts digital nomads, remote workers, backpackers and those just looking for somewhere chilled to hangout.

In this guide we’ll cover what you need to know about learning to surf in Playa Maderas, tips on where to eat, our pick of the best places to stay and how to get there.

Dinged up boards stacked and battered, pick-up trucks parked upon the pebbles. Neckerchiefed adopted dogs awaiting their owners, busy out riding on the waves. Secluded retreats and lodges scattered out amongst the remote hills and the trails, with nothing much to do in between. Each day ending with salt in your hair, sand on your skin, bare soles, a mix of sunscreen and sweat on your brow, and that ‘just one more’ cold beer in your hand as you watch the setting sun behind shark fin rocks.

Along a dusty, unpaved road from San Juan del Sur, Playa Maderas is the sort of coastal enclave you dream about as a traveller.

Accessible only via your own wheels, a taxi, or a bumpy shuttle in the back of a truck, on our last visit to the area eight years ago, it was just a day trip beach from San Juan del Sur rather than a destination itself.

The surfers however knew better.

That has very much flipped now, with it being clear on our return to Nicaragua just how many backpackers were now choosing to base themselves out here in the remote boho enclave rather than in the town a 35-minute ride away - a key contributory factor in why the atmosphere in San Juan has changed quite a bit too.

Riding the wave of Nicaragua's surging popularity amongst travellers, things took off here 'like a rocket' in 2017 in the words of one guy we met, with lots of new businesses opening to meet and drive the increasing word-of-mouth demand. That boomtime for Maderas, when flashpacker hostel brands, stunning hilltop villas and innumerable digital-nomad-friendly Airbnbs started to crop up amongst the dusty trails, the leaves and the no-fuss surf camp originals, couldn't however have been timed worse.

The violent government crackdown on national protests began not long after, effectively shutting the country down for eight months; just as things started to return to normal, the big-C hit.

On our return in early 2022, it was clear that Playa Maderas was slowly inching back to being the place to be. The recovery wasn’t underpinned by backpackers however - though there were plenty - but rather a crowd of digital nomads and remote workers escaping the winters of North America.

And those hardcore surfers who started it all in the first place.

A great place to have your first surf lesson as well as a spot that proper surfers adore, with the two able to share the waves at the same time without too much crossover, Playa Maderas is thankfully still in that magical sweetspot of having developed just enough to make it a traveller haven, but not quite so far that the secret is well and truly out and overdevelopment and crowding has ruined what brought people to this jewel of the Emerald Coast in the first place.

Make the most of it while you can.

In this post, we've shared everything you need to know to plan for a few days in Playa Maderas, or to just take a daytrip from your base in San Juan del Sur. This includes surf spots and lessons, where to eat, the best accommodation picks for your travel style, and clear information on how to get to Playa Maderas from elsewhere in Nicaragua and the Costa Rica border.

This is our guide to Playa Maderas.

Should You Stay in Maderas or San Juan del Sur?

Firstly though, if you're reading this post, chances are you may be asking yourself the above question.

The two neighbouring coastal destinations are naturally paired by travellers, with the sizeable beach town of San Juan del Sur (SJDS) also acting as the main transport gateway to the remote, small surf and chillout hub of Maderas.

If you already know you're going to be based in San Juan del Sur and just have a daytrip to Maderas, then feel free to skip to the next section. If you're still deciding though, we stayed in both during our week, and we think the most important things to know are:

There is some fantastic accommodation in Maderas, but far less than in SJDS, with prices generally higher and availability absolutely not guaranteed due to its burgeoning popularity (so don't turn up without a reservation).
Due to the remoteness, layout, and nature of the accommodation on offer in Maderas, you will depend largely on your accommodation and the handful of restaurants for food and drink. This, coupled with the fact that there's no shop or market, pushes costs up (quite significantly if staying in certain places) and makes choice quite limited too.
It also makes your choice of where you stay in Maderas super important, as you'll spend quite a bit of time chilling out there during the day and in the evenings (at night, it can be a bit of a trek in the dark to go / return from anywhere else in Maderas and nightlife is limited).

Budget travellers can therefore save quite a bit of money overall if staying in SJDS due to more options, availability, and the price range of accommodation, food, restaurants, and shops. We met several surfers on a budget who decided to stay in SJDS and just take the $5 shuttle in each day, but that may not be something everyone wants to do.

The setting and vibe of Maderas is however really special and quite different from staying in SJDS, so all the above should be viewed as a price worth paying to be by the waves in the middle of nature, surrounded by people with a similar travel style to you. There are also some options for groceries, which we detail later in the post. Some accommodations in Maderas also lay on shuttles for guests looking to enjoy the nightlife on San Juan del Sur on the weekend (including Sunday Funday), which is something to factor in if you also want to take advantage of that.

If staying in Maderas and hoping to cook for yourself most days, or save money on booze, we highly recommend doing a big shop for supplies in SJDS first. You can also take the 35-minute shuttle between the two when you need to stock up or require a service in the town, but note that it's quite infrequent, and you won't want to take it every day if you're based in here.

We stayed in both, but those of you on a shorter trip may not be able to do that, in which case it's about deciding which you'd prefer as a base, and which you'd prefer to just daytrip to! From a personal perspective, San Juan del Sur was somewhere we weren’t sad to be leaving after a few nights, but we would happily have hung around Maderas for quite a lot longer.

Go Surfing

The reason Playa Maderas became so well known in the first place remains the main draw.

Famous within surfing circles for decades, and offering consistent waves almost every day of the year, Maderas has even hosted a number of international surf competitions.

Constant offshore winds are responsible for the quality and consistency of the surf (a Texan guy who looked and talked like the Big Lebowski explained this in a startling level of detail to us, but it sort of went over our heads*), but does mean the water's generally colder than relative to popular surf spots on the Pacific coast in Nicaragua and Costa Rica. This means wetsuits are commonplace amongst locals and visiting surfers, even when it's deliciously hot out on the sand.

*He also said something about the wind at 30 is fine, but at 40 is not, and I have no idea what he meant but hopefully this will be useful to someone reading this post...

Although its reputation amongst the experts is legendary, and you'll see lots of immensely talented people out on the waves, Playa Maderas is also an excellent place to learn to surf in Nicaragua. The beach is sandy and safe, the waves are not of an indimidating size, and the area you'll learn is generally not of interest to the pros, which we find always makes it less intimidating. It's a much more appropriate and enjoyable spot to learn than Popoyo, Playa Gigante, or several other San Juan del Sur Beaches - but Las Peñitas further north is also a good shout for newbies.

Rebelde Surf School (maps), at the bottom of the hill on the road to the beach, charges $25 per person for a 90-minute group lesson or $35 for a private. There's also a regular group of local guys on the beach who will offer a private beginner's lessons for $25. These last for an hour to 90 minutes, with the initial technique taught out on the sand, then the guy pushing you off and adjusting your technique in the water (or pushing you off and flirting with girls nearby).

All equipment is included.

With the lessons, you may get a deal if you rent a board for the day too but be aware of how tired you may be after a first lesson, your arrival times, and the tide - - which mean you may not get much use.

Clarify the total price at start and have the exact money ready in USD just in case of a disagreement (for example, lessons which were meant to be private often became group ones).

You can rent a board for $10 per day on the beach or at Rebelde Surf School, which is easier than carrying it to and from your accommodation up and down the hills. Some accommodations do offer board rental though, and you should always be able to get a deal if looking to rent for 3+ days.

A Beach Bum Day

Should you still head out to Maderas even if you have zero interest in surfing? Absolutely.

In contrast to most of the other San Juan del Sur beaches, the set-up and level of popularity here means it's perfect for a fun backpacker beach day. We'd go as far to say that, for that sort of atmosphere and setting, Maderas is joint-top of our list for Nicaragua.

Rent a chair or lay your sarong down on the soft, clean sand, spend a lazy day in the sun, snack on tostones washed down with Toña, watch surfers as you sip on strong cocktails, join a game of volleyball as the sun begins to set in a watercolour of oranges, pinks, purples.

If staying here, the stars are also worth sticking around for.

There are three restaurants to choose from on the beach, and they all offer a pretty similar menu. Tacos Locos has crazy high prices so we didn't stick around, but Maderas Sunset Bar has a nice seating area to escape the sun and watch the surf with your lunch, super cold beers and kick-ass tostones, whilst Hostal 3 Hermanos on the left hand side is a good shout if you're having a lazy beach day with a food/drink service to your deckchair.

We paid C$200 cordobas to rent two chairs, a table and an umbrella from 11am until sunset - the lady at Tres Hermanos initially quoted us 300, but the guy who was actually in charge of them said 200 as his first price, which was very fair.

All of these restaurants close around sunset - if wanting to chill out or stay out longer, bring your own supplies.

An important thing to note is the huge effect of tides on Playa Maderas, transforming it from a small sandy stretch in front of the the three restaurants into a wide expanse of wave traces and rock formations (the best time to walk it and explore further along the coast, into the neighbouring northerly beaches of Playa Rosa and Playa Majagual). If laying down your own towels when the tide is out, just be aware how much it will come in later in the day, and don't be asleep when it does...

Save for the super budget choice of Tres Hermanos, accommodation for Playa Maderas isn't located on the beach but rather a 5-10 minute walk away; if you're staying, note that the quietest time will be before the first morning shuttles arrive and after the last one leaves.

Neighbouring Playa Marsella is also a good shout for the day and walkable from Maderas - find out more about it in this San Juan Del Sur beaches post.

Breakfast At The Maderas Cafe

Run by a friendly Kiwi who fell in love with the surf on these southern Nicaraguan shores, Maderas Cafe opened just three weeks before our visit and we reckon it's going to be a hugely popular addition.

The coffee is roasted right there with beans from the Nicaraguan hills and is so good, whilst there's also smoothies and a good selection of healthy and hearty dishes to start the day (think smashed avo + eggs, french toast, smoothie bowls, and a mean sandwich).

The best part may however be the three pooches who are often hanging around: the little bossman Chewie, loping Trevor, and an adorable little homeless girl who decided to move in permanently.

Its situ is ideal to stop off on your way to or from the beach, especially after a morning surf, and we'd recommend breakfast here at least a couple of times (it was way better than what was on offer in Selina, where we stayed). The chilled out shack vibes also make it a good spot to just chill or catch up on a little trip planning out of the sun.

Do note however that they don’t currently have wifi (the owner said he was planning on changing that - let us know if he does!)

When | 7am - 2pm, cash only

Where | Find The Maderas Cafe here on Google Maps. There's a hidden track behind it that leads from Hush to the beach.

Other recommended places to eat in Playa Maderas include:

Arte y Sano (maps). Offers excellent pizza, and other popular meals in a fantastic setting - ideal for dinner or sunset drinks.
Hush (maps). We didn’t try them, but apparently they make a mean taco!
Machete Market Cafe (maps). Hosts pop-up dinners, live music, and farmer’s / artisan markets as well as a daily market open from 8 am to 5 pm allowing you stock up without going into SJDS. It’s about a 2km walk from Maderas beach.
On Playa Rosa, there's also Juanita's Kitchen which serves local Nicaraguan fare. We didn't have the chance to eat there and most of you won't either unless staying for a while.
We went in search one night of a few little local restaurants marked on Google Maps a short walk from Selina, but one of them wasn’t open and the other wasn’t serving that night. Do try to spread your spending if you can though so it isn’t just the same businesses benefiting from tourism but also those in the community.

WHERE TO STAY IN MADERAS

The great thing about choosing to base yourself in Maderas rather than SJDS is the incredible number of beautiful accommodation options available - everything from backpacker-friendly treetop hostels and rustic casitas to and luxury villas, yoga lodges and stunning wooden-frame jungle houses.

Additionally, because of the area’s popularity as a remote working / digital nomad destination, the internet connections are generally excellent.

One important thing to note before choosing where to stay in Maderas though, is that the accommodation on offer is spread across a relatively large area; if being no more than a 10-minute walk from the beach & waves is important to you, then just double-check before reserving. Also, booking ahead is absolutely necessary for most accommodations due to supply/demand and the fact that the dispersal amongst the Pacific hills means just turning up and walking around in search of a deal is not feasible.

Below we’ve included our pick of the best places to stay in Maderas, with a selection of hotels, hostels, apartments, private rooms and houses:

Hostel Clandestino Maderas | This incredible treetop hostel is located a 10-minute walk from Playa Maderas and offers dorms, private rooms, a guest kitchen, gorgeous common rooms and incredible nature views - there’s a reason it’s so highly rated amongst backpackers. Find out more here.

Hush Maderas | This adults-only, boutique eco-lodge is one of the few hotels along this section of the coast, and sits just a five minute walk from Playa Maderas. Offering an infinity pool, 180-degree ocean views, a yoga studio and stunning rooftop, Hush gets booked up quickly! Find out more here.

Arte-Sano Hotel is another popular hotel option in Maderas.

Vintage Surf Club | Overlooking Playa Marsella, this Bohemian property is just gorgeous. Comprised of three stilted casitas, it is just a 10-15 minute walk to the beach, offers rustically charming rooms and beautiful communal spaces (plus a Jack Russell called Henry). Check out High Tide Casita or Low Tide Casita.

Casa Dunia | Composed of two separate one-bedroom casitas (Casita Jardin and Casita Luna) just 150 metres from Playa Maderas. Each has its own separate living areas and great little patios, overlooking nature. Fantastic reviews, and really excellent value for money.

Beachside Jungle Abode | Located a few minutes from Playa Maderas, this four-bedroom property is the definition of rustic luxury. Constructed of locally sourced, naturally fallen wood and a thatched roof, its indoor-outdoor vibes allow you really feel like you’re living amongst nature. Find out more here.

Casita Olita | This cute little bungalow, just a five minute stroll from the beach, may be small but it’s perfectly formed! Ideal for a solo traveller who want their own space. Find out more here.

Villa Delfín | By far the most luxurious (and expensive) property on this list, this stunning two bedroom villa with views over Playa Maderas, private infinity pool and private beach access caters well to a family or group of friends. Superb quality throughout, you'll even have access to personal housekeeping, cooking staff and 24 hours security. Find out more here.

The same host also has a number of other villas along Playa Maderas - including Villa Colibri, Villa Mariposa, Villa Tortuga and Villa Palmera - but do note that these are not quite to the same luxurious standards as Villa Delfin (cheaper though!).

Todo Bien | Owned and run by the same Kiwi chap that created Maderas Cafe, Todo Bien offers a small number of apartments, private rooms (with shared facilities) and cabanas - all with access to the beautiful decking area and swimming pool. Do note that these rentals are a little on the pricey side as compared to others in the area but the reviews are truly excellent. You can find all the listings for Todo Bien here.

CasAnica | This charming little casa will leave you feeling as if you’re in the middle of nature although only a short walk to the beach. Good kitchen and living space plus patio area and small private pool. Well priced at just $50 a night. Find out more here.

Casa del Arte | A variety of accommodations offered by a woman who fell in love with Maderas, built a house and never left. Full of cute elements, contemporary design, big open spaces, lots of light and incredible views! You can choose from a self-contained one bedroom apartment, private rooms or a three-bedroom house.

Hilltop Villa | With six bedrooms, this is an ideal option for a large group of friends, a family getaway or a retreat. Large, bright and open spaces, yoga deck and infinity pool plus incredible views. Only thing is you do need a 4x4 to access it. Find out more here.

How To Get To Playa Maderas

There is no direct public bus or transport to Playa Maderas, which means that unless you have your own transport most travellers have to reach it via a combination of bus to San Juan del Sur, and shuttle onwards to Maderas.

There is also the option to take a taxi from SJDS, but depending upon the location of your accommodation some drivers may not wish to take you due to road conditions.

If travelling from elsewhere in the country (likely from Isla de Ometepe, Popoyo, or Granada), you'll need to take a bus to Rivas bus station (maps) and jump on the next one to SJDS (C$25-30 / 45 minutes).

If you've just done the Costa Rica to Nicaragua bordering crossing, then you'll either be dropped off at the La Virgen crossroads to take a bus onward to San Juan del Sur, or they'll deposit you in Rivas bus station - find specific instructions for that route here.

Shuttles from San Juan del Sur

Once you’ve arrived in San Juan del Sur, you have three options: choose to stay there for a few nights first, base yourself in SJDS and travel to/from Maderas as a day trip, or simply get on the next departing shuttle that day!

The best bet* is the daily but infrequent shuttle departures outside Casa de Oro hostel. At time of writing, the schedule is:

Depart SJDS at 10am, 12.30pm, 2.30pm, and 5.45pm.

Depart Maderas at 10.45am, 1.15pm, 3.15pm, 6.30pm

Travel time is 35-45 minutes, and it’s $3 USD per person one-way or $5 for a return. Note that the return doesn't have to be on the same day, but confirm when buying as they may need to note it on the ticket.

You must buy the ticket in advance inside the hostel - the driver doesn't accept money or give out tickets - and we recommend turning up a good 10-15 minutes early to guarantee yourself a seat (especially on morning departures when the truck can get very full with day trippers and those travelling to their accommodations in Maderas).

The shuttle itself is an open-sided truck with benches along the side, which makes it an enjoyable bumpy and dusty journey to Maderas along an unpaved roads and through rural communities (definitely one to avoid if you're really hungover). You can fit backpacks and surfboards inside.

The shuttle has designated drop offs at Selina Maderas, Hush, and some other accommodations before continuing on to the beach. Note that it doesn't pass by or drop off at all accommodations, so double check with yours in advance and with the driver before setting off in order to avoid a trudge up a steep hill - a taxi may be the more feasible option.

Some accommodations also offer a private shuttle service (such as ‘the space’, which is gorgeous but actually a bit away from Maderas itself).

*This is the only public shuttle timetable we're aware of at the moment, but we did spy a sign for $5 shuttles to Maderas at a shop opposite the Super Express supermarket (maps). If you find other options, please let us know in the comments.

Taxis

If there's a group of you or you don’t fancy waiting around, a direct taxi split four ways will be a lot more convenient and comfortable.

From San Juan del Sur, there are lots of taxi drivers waiting on various corners, with the price at $15 one-way.

Note that the prices are for the whole vehicle, not per person. They may try to add extra for bags too, so make sure you've got a full understanding of the total price before agreeing and setting off. HOWEVER, do be aware that surf boards aren't guaranteed any space in a taxi and there will be an extra charge for these.

It’s also possible to take a taxi direct from Rivas, rather than the bus into SJDS first, however we unfortunately don't know the price (let us know in the comments if you take one!). However, from our experiences of Rivas bus termianal, it will take some negotiation to get to a fair, realistic price. Around about $30 would seem about right...but as it's an unpaved road and a remote destination, you may have to stump up more.

Note that if you want to grab a taxi from Playa Maderas into San Juan Del Sur, there aren’t any just hanging around waiting for a fare. Instead you'll need to arrange via your accommodation or get the number of a driver.

Motorcycle Rental

If renting your own vehicle in Nicaragua, note that a 4x4 is recommended for many of the roads in this part of the coast, especially in rainy season. From the turn-off, it's about a 5km ride to Maderas.

As far as we're aware, there are no motorbike rentals operating in Maderas (let us know if this changes); some accommodations can arrange it for you but this will make the overall rental more expensive. Therefore, if you would like a bike for several days, we’d recommend picking one up in SJDS.

In our San Juan del Sur guide, we share more motorbike recommendations, tips on companies to rent with and prices, but the most important thing to note is that inexperienced drivers need to be very cautious on the dusty roads out here, especially on the hills. Try to leave before sunset to make things easier, as there's no lights on most sections of the road.

Playa Maderas Travel Tips

Navagation | The dusty roads and obscured trails which stitch together the disparate layout of Playa Maderas' homes, restaurants, and accommodations aren't immediately obvious, and Google Maps can lead to dead-ends or private properties. Often the quickest way to get around on foot is via the beach or to head back on yourself to take the signposted roads, rather than assume everything over a hill links together.

If heading out for food or drinks at night, you'll need a torch.

ATMs | There are no ATMs, and most businesses and accommodations will charge 5-6% extra for card payments, so bring plenty cash with you. Otherwise, you need to head into SJDS for withdrawals.

Groceries | For fresh fruit and veg, there's a truck which passes through twice a week (sorry that we don’t know the specific days, but pretty sure one of them is a Tuesday!). This a pretty common set up for rural Nicaragua, and you can hear his loudspeaker from a while away, so just listen out or ask your accommodation. There are also a couple of tienditas a short walk from Selina.

Booze | Alongside any groceries you think you'll need if planning on cooking a bit, bring a bottle or two of Flor de Caña with you as there are no shops nearby and costs are higher/options limited.