Want to know the very best things to do in Santorini, Greece?
We’ve got you covered with the most popular experiences and places, as well as a few hidden gems.
We only arrived on Santorini because of a storm.
Originally, the plan was to visit the Portuguese island of Madeira for a couple of weeks of hiking in its hills, but the flight was cancelled just an hour before departure. Plagued by strong Atlantic winds and rains, no plane could land or take-off there for a couple of days.
We returned home with full suitcases and an empty schedule, and ran through the list of places we could catch a flight to in the coming days to give us sunshine and a sense of somewhere else.
Without that storm-driven spontaneity, we don't know if we'd have ever ended up in Santorini.
A little Greek island with a big reputation, all we knew about it beyond the beautiful white villages dusting the steeps hills were the negatives: the overcrowding of Oia, the daily docking of cruise ships, stoic donkeys suffering under the weight of too-heavy visitors and their luggage, rooftop trespassing influencers, and some crazy, crazy prices.
For the ancient Greeks though, the actions of humans were predestined, and it only seemed fitting that Along Dusty Roads' first trip to Greece would be determined by the Fates. Indeed, in their mythology, Santorini was created from a piece of dirt hurled by Poseidon's son, and perhaps the god of the seas and oceans played some role in that storm over thousand miles away.
Across our week of slowly uncovering Santorini, we found much to challenge our preconceptions. Yes, there are some crazy prices, too many cruise ships, and a few stunning places to avoid at certain times unless you're a glutton for punishment or have very little time here.
However, on this volcanic island there remains much culture and beauty for the independent traveller to enjoy between luxurious R&R by the private plunge pool or black sand beach.
Picture-perfect whitewashed villages and blue-domed churches, layers of history, boat trips into the blue, crater diving, fantastic Greek food on the waterfront, hikes along the famous caldera, and a reputation for vines + wines that deserves several glasses to be raised each day.
And those signature Santorini sunsets do take some beating.
In this post, we've shared our favourite things to do in Santorini, Greece. Whether you're there for a few days on your island-hopping trip across Aegan Sea, or it's your main pick for a summer holiday this year, our recommendations for day trips, experiences, destinations, and hang-out spots will help you get to know the best of the popular island, as well as a lesser-known side of Santorini beyond the crowds and those photoshoots of billowing red dresses.
This 13 Wonderful Things To Do in Santorini: our manual to help you plan the perfect trip.
ThE Best Things To Do In Santorini
Stay / Splurge at a gorgeous caldera-view hotel like Nobu Hotel, The Vasilicos, Perivolas, Katikies or Andronis Arcadia
Wine / Vineyard tastings or join a wine tour
Hike / Spend a few hours on the Fira to Oia trail
Boat / Explore the caldera on a catamaran cruise
Sunsets / Watch the famous Oia sunset or opt for one of Santorini’s less famous viewpoints
Villages / Don’t miss Pyrgos & Megalochori
Tour / Explore the island on this excellent full-day tour
Beaches / A black sand day on Perissa Beach
Eat / Delicious Greek dishes and do a cooking class
Swim / Enjoy the secret spot at Ammoudi Bay
History / Visit Akrotiri & Thera Ruins
Rent / Explore independently with a car or ATV - we use Rentalcars and AutoEurope to book in advance
The Best Things To Do In Santorini, Greece
SAVOUR THE CALDERA OF SANTORINI
You will see and hear a lot about the caldera a lot in Santorini, but its significance is often undersold.
Santorini is itself a volcano, and the cluster of islands that make up the archipelago of the same name were formed from several eruptions over millennia, with the most cataclysmic occurring around 1600 BC (over 3,600 years ago). Known as the Minoan Eruption, with a ferocity 100 times more powerful than that which buried Pompeii, it wiped out much of Crete and its Minoan civilisation, caused ash to fall as far away as Greenland, and is thought to have directly caused a two-year volcanic winter.
So, it was pretty damn big.
It also caused the centre of the volcanic island to collapse into the sea; the eruption devastated and created Santorini in an instant, cracking it from a single whole into three separate islands of Thera, Thirasia and Aspronisi.
And so, the caldera isn't some random Greek word meaning 'viewpoint' or 'pretty bit of the sea'; it's a Spanish term, slightly different to crater, relating to the large depression left when a volcano erupts and falls in on itself.
From these big bang origins, the beautifully steep, sharp edges of Santorini’s crescent-shaped western side were hewn. Home to the most famous whitewashed villages and resorts, many plans are shaped by the contours of the caldera and appreciating it from the water, on a trail, on a boat tour, from the skies, or from your private pool by day or sunset is without doubt one of the best things to do in Santorini.
Where | The caldera of Santorini runs along the western side of the island, from Oia in the north down to Akrotiri, and there are no shortage of viewpoints and places to stop all along that elevated part of the island to appreciate it or get a different perspective. There's loads of accommodation, restaurants, and bars perched on the caldera offering its sweeping vista over the sea, and we’ve shared several throughout this post, but that setting comes at a premium.
Book | A small-group catamaran trip around the caldera with snorkelling, swimming in hot springs, food, and an open-bar or opt for a luxurious private trip.
Eat | Widely recognised as being one of Oia’s best restaurants, Lycabettus Restaurant (part of Andronis Luxury Suites) offers absolutely breathtaking views over the caldera.
Plan / 23 Things To Know Before You Visit Santorini (published soon)
STAY IN THE CALDERA VILLAGES
With such a dramatic and beautiful setting overlooking the Aegan Sea, the majority of visitors dream of being based on the caldera for that signature, exclusive Santorini experience and aesthetic - which is why the the trio of Oia, Firostefani, and Immergivoli and have grown into the places to stay and be seen on the island.
The three vertiginous villages are impossibly perched atop and along the periphery of the steeply-sided caldera crescent, dusting its rough green-brown terrain like icing sugar. Linked by road and a spectacular hiking trail on the northwest side, their whitewashed layer cakes of luxury hotels and exclusive restaurants overlooking the water are absolutely beautiful and quintessential of the Greek islands.
All of them will feature on your holiday itinerary, but if you're dreaming of the unique setting and romantic experience of staying in any of the three, it's important to set expectations accordingly: in high season, we're talking thousands per night at the best, and hundreds per night at the average.
For this reason, some of you may just have to make do with day trips to these villages from an alternative base, and admiring the caldera from the viewpoints and activities we recommend in this post.
However, if you’re travelling to Santorini for a honeymoon, luxury lover’s getaway, to treat or impress someone special, or the price tag isn’t an issue, then staying in one of the three is absolutely what you should do.
Some of the very best to consider (or just drool over) are:
1. Nobu Hotel
4. Perivolas
5. Katikies
Plan / We’ve shared lots more accommodation recommendations for all budgets and travel styles in this article: Where To Stay in Santorini (published soon)
We will also be publishing dedicated destination guides to Oia and Immergivoli, so watch this space.
VISIT Santorini’s Vineyards & Wine Tastings
Although it’s far less known on supermarket shelves than its Italian or French counterparts, Greece has a longstanding, rich viticulture.
And Santorini is the superstar of the Greek wine show.
Grapes have been grown on the island for at least three thousand years, and it’s one of the oldest wine producing areas in the world. However, the enhanced reputation for its traditional growing methods, small-scale production, and plethora of native grape varieties has elevated the Santorini wine boom to another level in the last couple of decades.
The challenges presented by its terroir of volcanic soil, low yields, and harsh extremes of heat, wind, and scant rain are also responsible for the much-praised, distinctive qualities of its white wines. The ash and lava of the clay-free soil passes on strong mineral notes, and stopped the ancient vines falling victim to the phylloxera plague which ravaged European vineyards in the 18th and 19th centuries. The climatic extremes resulted in the unique 'kouloura' method of training the vines into the coiled calf-high 'basket', quite different to vines you'll see anywhere else, to protect them from wind and sunlight; suitably sheltered, they draw moisture from the mists that roll in from the waves under cover of darkness.
The result, understandably, is a crisp, fresh wine with mineral notes and a lingering sense of the salty sea; it pairs beautifully with the island's fresh seafood and Mediterranean cuisine.
Of the 25+ indigenous grape varieties, Assyrtiko is the most used and admired, and you'll see Santorini wines on pretty much every restaurant and chic bar’s menu here. However, going that extra step and visiting one or several of the twenty or so wineries on the island is a must-do activity.
Some reflect the small-scale and traditional roots of the wine trade here, whilst a few have definitely tapped into the Santorini aesthetic with stunning caldera-facing bars over the sea. Most Santorini wineries offer good-value tasting experiences and tours, and you can also just turn up for a glass in the season. If you've got a rental car, you can do a DIY route and there are 'Wine Roads' signs dotted around to point you in the right direction, but there is the obvious drawback for one of you having to be a designated driver; for oenophiles and those looking to really show their cultural appreciation at each winery, it may be best to join a dedicated wine-tasting tour that brings you to several in a single day.
Visit | We loved the rustic set-up of Gaia, right by the sea in an old red and yellow tomato factory. Hatzidakis Winery has a similar vibe, whilst Santo Wines and Venetsanos Winery offer stupendous settings for tastings. In high season, it’s highly recommended to reserve a table or tasting ahead of time if turning up independently.
Tour | There are number of Santorini wine tours, but the following are all highly-rated:
Plan | Grapes are harvested on the island, typically by hand, from mid-August to September. If you’d like to know more beyond the tastings at the makers, consider visiting the Santorini Wine Museum (maps)
Travel Tip // You can also pick up a bottle from the supermarkets dotted around the island, with most having a decent range of Santorini wines available from about €15+. Suprisingly, the little shop in Mesaria (maps), had a far better selection than the main AB and Lidl supermarkets on the main road from Fira to Oia.
The Fira to Oia Hike
When you see Santorini from above, you really can appreciate the fact you're literally staying ON A VOLCANO IN THE MIDDLE OF THE SEA WITH A GREAT BIG BLOODY HOLE IN THE MIDDLE OF IT!
The most memorable vantage point would be on a helicopter ride, but given most of us are not made of money, the next best way to get to know the dramatic contours and unique scenery is to head out on the excellent Fira to Oia hike.
Totally free and manageable for anyone with a half-decent level of fitness, it’s also a surefire way to carve out your own impressions of Santorini far from the maddening cruise-ship crowds and flying red dress group photo shoots (although both will be unavoidable at certain points of the route).
We both absolutely love to hike at home and on our travels, and several Instagram followers recommended this as their favourite experience on the island; after our own sun-kissed day on the 10-km trail, we're hard-pushed to disagree with them
Starting in Fira, the main town which we really didn't like, the coast-hugging route brings you through Firostefani and Imergivoli, past Prophet Elias temple, and along black soot, lava, and dust through the back of beyond toward Oia. Along the way, you get to enjoy several of the best views of the island, and you can choose to whizz through it all in a couple of hours or use it as an opportunity to linger in several places on and off the trail.
For us, this is absolutely one of the best things to do in Santorini, and independent travellers should not miss out. However, we’d really encourage everyone who is able to put their trainers on to do this activity, as it gives a much more rounded impression of the island, doesn’t cost anything, and offers a refreshing alternative way to travel here.
Where + When | You can start from Fira or Oia, and it’s a 10km one-way. We’d suggest setting aside three to four hours, and it’s best done in the morning to avoid the peak summer heat. Depending how much time you have in Santorini, you can also use the hike as a way to visit Immergivoli, Oia, and Ammoudi Bay, or save them for standalone visits when you’re not so sweaty.
Plan | Read our full guide to the Fira to Oia hike for full details on the routes, trail conditions, transport connections, an offline map, and places to visit / stop along the way.
Travel Tip // Given its size, we wouldn't recommend Santorini as a destination for people looking for a hiking-specific holiday, but there are a surprising number of established routes and trails. We use the AllTrails app as our go-to for finding hikes when we travel and having excellent offline route maps, and there are a bunch of trails for Santorini there.
Book / We did this independently, with a combination our rental car and public bus to/from the trailheads. However, if you need transport or would prefer the reassurance of being joined with an English-speaking guide, there are some small group half-day hiking experiences on this route. The following two picks as highly-rated include hotel pick-up & drop-off.
Book A Santorini Boat Trip
When the sun is shining, the sea is sparkling, and you're in the middle of the Mediterranean, there are few better things to do than head out on the water.
Exploring Santorini by boat provides access to hidden gems that can't be reached by land, secluded beaches, secret coves, and remote swimming spots that are often impossible to find or visit otherwise, as well as other islands in the archipelago and unique sunsets on the stunning coastline.
So, if you're planning a visit to Santorini, including time for one boat trip in your itinerary is essential. However, before booking anything, it’s important to think about how you want to do it, your budget, and how many people you want to share the experience with.
As it’s one of the most popular activities in Santorini, you'll find a ridiculous number of boat trips offered: luxury sunset catamarans to little self-drive boats, massive island-hopping pirate ships, private speedboats, rugged sports-fishing vessels, sea kayaks, a DIY ferry, and everything bobbing in between.
Most trips understandably focus on the caldera side and can be booked book for the morning, afternoon, or a sunset experience. Some focus on sight-seeing visits to hot springs and other islands in the archipelago, whilst others are more about the exclusive experience of hanging out with friends, swimming, eating, and drinking with a stunning backdrop. Some companies include transfers from elsewhere on the island, whilst other require you to make it to a meeting point before departure.
Whether you go for private or shared boat trip will really depend on your budget and group-size.
In summer season, it’s recommended to book your trip at least a few days in advance and always take a look at the weather forecast to avoid disappointment on a particularly windy day (most of the below have free cancellation up to 24 hours in advance). Whatever type of sea-faring experience you do, remember to slap on the suncream, bring a hat and shirt to cover up under the peak sun, and stay hydrated!
To help you choose the best for you, we've shared several of the best Santorini boat tours and experiences below, with something to suit all types of travel styles and budgets. All of these are highly-rated, but we always recommend reading recent review to get a sense of recent experiences before booking.
· A half-day sea kayaking experience along the coast (book here), or opt for this popular longer tour that includes more time for swimming, lunch, and cliff jumping.
· Heading out on a catamaran is one of the most popular activities, with stops for swimming and snorkelling alongside the views. Pick-up/drop-off transport and food is usually included, whilst some operators also have an open bar. Most also have the option to include a caldera sunset. There are lots available to book online, with the following amongst the options check out first:
If you would prefer to go private or feel like you’re a Roy family member for the day, then check out this one or this private cruise.
· You can also rent a self-drive boat in Santorini without a licence here. We’ve done this in Calabria and Menorca, and it’s a brilliant way to spend the day.
· The Santorini Volcanic Islands Cruise with Hot Springs Visit also deserves a mention as it’s alway busy, but the group size and boat may be too large for what some of you are looking to do.
Good To Know // We had rain and grey skies for our last two days in Santorini, which messed up some of our plans. On our penultimate day, we'd planned to go scuba diving in the caldera, but the conditions made it pointless. However, we should mention here that there are several diving companies around the island, and you can also try out scuba diving for the first time here too (find out more here).
The other scuppered plan was taking the local ferry from Ammoudi Bay over to Thirassia, the island just across the bay and often referred to as ‘Santorini from fifty years ago’ i.e. before tourism arrived. We really wish that had happened, so let us know in the comments if you make it and your thoughts!
You can also head over to Thirassia on this half-day tour.
Oia Yeah? Oia No!
Formed from the fires of the volcano, a much more recent natural disaster was fundamental to the creation of modern-day Santorini.
A devastating earthquake in the summer of 1956 hit the island, killing scores and prompting significant emigration to the mainland. The northern village of Oia was left in ruins.
Painstakingly rebuilt, it has metamorphosed into the jewel in the crown of Santorini. One of the most breathtaking and luxurious destinations in the Mediterranean, it attracts visitors from all over in search of escapism and luxury.
From the roots of resilience and reconstruction, Oia's architectural style is a captivating blend of traditional Cycladic design and contemporary influences. The dazzling white facades and rounded edges of the buildings harmoniously complement the rugged cliffs and offer a striking contrast against the deep blue backdrop of the sea. The iconic domed churches add an ethereal touch to the village's skyline. Thousands come to stroll through the narrow, labyrinthine alleyways, immersed in a symphony of arches, vaults, and vaulted passageways, seek out views from the old castle, browse stylish boutiques and ateliers, and look out on the types of exclusive hotels most of us can only dream of spending a night in.
Visiting Oia is, therefore, unmissable.
For many, it is the reason they come to Santorini in the first place.
However, it comes with a bloody big catch.
As Santorini is so popular, and visiting Oia is the most popular thing to do in Santorini, it often becomes far far too busy. With several cruise ships docking daily, and most shore excursions stopping here, there are simply far too many people jostling for space in the narrow street seams. If you time it wrong, the endless queues at viewpoints and bottlenecks aplenty combine with the heat to make it all thoroughly unenjoyable, no matter how beautiful it is.
So, Oia and overtourism grow hand in hand, and we don't really see how it can evolve to face the challenges of the modern era and the impact of its ever-increasing popularity.
Sharing the reality here shouldn't make you despondent, but help you prepare to travel better for the most popular place on the island. To make the most of Oia, you can beat the crowds by arriving for an early morning wander before 10am and the first arrivals of tour groups and cruise ship shore excursions.
Stay / Besides the uber luxurious Oia locations mentioned above, other gorgeous hotels that caught our eye include Sophia Oia View, Nimbus Santorini and Oia Spirit Boutique Residences.
If you’re keen on staying somewhere fabulous in Oia but want your money to go that little bit further, you may be better off considering an Airbnb instead as these tend to be a little cheaper, and often have a small kitchen alongside those incredible sunset views. To begin with take a look at Pano Meria Studio, La Mer Cave House and Argithea Apartment all of which can be booked for around £225 - £275 per night even during the peak summer months (for less than £400 a night you can even get this stunning Airbnb with an indoor/outdoor, swim through cave pool!).
Conversely, if cost is not too much of a concern but you’d still appreciate a kitchen, Sunset Cave House and Cave House by Cycladica are both beautiful.
Plan / A Short Guide To Oia (published soon)
Five Fantastic Santorini Experiences To Book
Whilst a number of the best things to do in Santorini can be done slowly and independently, several special experiences and fun activities on the island are only possible as part of a small-group or private tour.
If you want a memorable travel day, consider the following:
For Adventurers / Sea Kayaking Along The Coast
For Foodies / A Greek cooking class at Petra Kouzina
For Lovers / A Couple’s Photoshoot With A Personal Photographer
For Wine / A Santorini Vineyard Tour & Tasting
For Sunsets / A Luxury Catamaran Trip With Swimming, Drinks & BBQ
If you are only in Santorini for a short while, and don’t plan to rent your own wheels, then it may be a good idea to join a small-group tour that brings you to several villages and viewpoints, as well as provide a deeper understanding of the island and its beauty. Highly-rated options include the Santorini Highlights Tour, the Santorini Instagram Tour, but you can also opt for a private guided tour around the island.
WATCH Those FAMOUS Santorini Sunsets
With the caldera facing west, Santorini is really in the ideal position for spectacular sunsets.
Understandably, is a daily ritual for visitors is to witness the giant sun burn bright and bold as it descends toward the horizon then falls into the Aegan, casting the the island and the sea in a sumptuous, shifting light of honey, lavender, peach, and rose.
Oia is by far and away the most popular place to watch it from, but this comes with the concomitant issues of being one of too many at an in-demand tourist attraction*.
The good news is that you don't just have to go elbow to elbow with the hundreds of others watching it from Oia’s Castle (maps): there are plenty alternative, less crowded, and equally beautiful locations to seek out your own Santorini sunset.
A few of our favourites were:
· Akrotiri Lighthouse | On the southwest of the island, it's a short walk from the parking to take your place anywhere along the rocks. Romantic, rugged, and best done with a rental car / ATV. Bring a beer with you or grab a drink from the enterprising guy with a kiosk. There are several bars and tavernas nearby offering a similar viewpoint of the caldera and sunset if you'd prefer to pair it with food or a cocktail. Find it here on Google Maps.
· Skaros Rock | Imergivoli also gets stupendous sunsets, and Skyrgos Rock offsets the burning light beautifully. You can admire the setting sun from the narrow streets and viewpoints bars, or walk down and across to the rock for unobstructed views (make sure your phone has charge to torchlight up the walk back). Find it here on Google Maps.
· Franco's Cafe | The pick of the best Santorini sunset spots are, understandably, on the caldera side. However, in the village of Pyrgos, the rooftop of Franco's offers strong cocktails, a dramatic classical soundtrack, and a perfect place to bring the day to a close. Find it here on Google Maps, or find out more about Pyrgos in the next section.
· Ammoudi Bay | We’ve shared more about this later in the article!
· A Sunset Catamaran Experience | This one and this one have excellent reviews, but you can find + book several others listed on GetYourGuide and Viator.
* We will leave it you whether you see the sun set once, several times, or not at all from Oia, but note that it’s recommended to arrive at least an hour or so ahead of sundown to secure yourself a decent vantage point, and queues for the public bus and traffic congestion are lengthy. If you're in Santorini for a short, romantic trip, consider splashing out on the type of Oia hotel where you can enjoy the sunset from your own pool or terrace each night, or make a beeline for a sunset cocktail at a stylish bar rather than hanging on the street in the crowd.
Visit Pyrgos
We were instinctively drawn to Pyrgos when scrambling to put together our last-minute itinerary, and the Fates were on our side again when we found this fantastic family-run Airbnb with views of the sea.
The beautiful hilltop village, the highest you’ll find on the small island and a wonderful example of the Cycladean architectural style, is no hidden gem. However, when contrasted with the cruise ship crowded streets of Oia, it can certainly feel like one at times.
Its strengths from some travellers are due its perceived flaws amongst others: it’s not on the caldera or by a beach so fewer people wish to be based there; its vibe is neither glitz nor glam, but quiet and local; its elevated setting means stairs and sweat, but also panoramic views to savour.
It was everything we could hope for for the week, and perfect for us - depending upon your travel style, it may be just perfect for you too.
Whether you stay in Pyrgos or not, we highly recommend hopping on the bus or in the rental car to spend a few hours or more exploring.
Although it does see its fair share of people from about 11am, the worst of the crowds are nowhere near the numbers of Oia, and it's easier to avoid the ebb-and-flow. Throw in the fact that there are several excellent, affordable restaurants, and one of the coolest bars for a dramatic sunset view, and you may end up spending more than just a few hours…
Stay / The Airbnb apartment we stayed in, the luxurious Aeon Suites, or splurge at Delilah Villa
Do / Head up to the old Venetian Castle for incredible views over Santorini, grab an excellent iced coffee at Kasteli, enjoy a sunset cocktail at Franco’s, pop your head into The Assumption of the Virgin Mary Orthodox Church and explore the pretty historic centre.
Book / If you’re short on time, this Santorini Highlights tour includes Pyrgos along Oia, Megalochori and a wine tasting. Alternatively, if you’d like to focus on the villages and Venetian castles, consider this small-group tour.
Plan / Our Guide to Pyrgos
RENT YOUR OWN WHEELS
Santorini has an excellent affordable public bus network that visitors can use to get around, but there are drawbacks if you depend on this. Incredibly busy, it can turn your independent adventures into feeling like you're part of a large tour group, and not ideal if you hope to visit several places in a day on shorter trips.
Your ability to rely upon the buses for day trips and experiences also impacts your decision on where to stay in Santorini.
As we were on the island for a week and valued our independence to explore, renting a car made most sense and was more cost-effective than depending on a combination of taxis, buses, and tours to get around. Our Fiat Panda cost just £89 for the week via Rentalcars.com, so it also made economic sense.
For some of you though, especially if you're primarily here for a relaxing holiday, it may be easiest to just get your own wheels for a day or two to visit several of the best things to do in Santorini beyond your base.
An increasingly popular alternative is to rent an ATV, which would undeniably be a fun, memorable activity in and of itself (personally though, we can never get used to the sight of quad bikes in beautiful, historic European streets). Just make 100% certain to check the weather forecast before you book it, as we felt sorry for those we saw on our two rainy days!
There’s also this popular ATV driving experience around the island if you’d prefer not to go it alone.
There are loads ATV + car rental companies in each town and resort area; they cost a little more than booking in advance online but are convenient for spur-of-the-moment short rentals. We always look + book our hire cars on aggregators like Rentalcars.com and AutoEurope as they usually provide better deals than going direct, and collecting a car from the airport almost always gives the best rates than those you’ll find in the tourist-focussed towns and resorts.
Check hire car rates and availability for your dates here.
Whatever type of vehicle you opt for, and however long you have it, please be sensible on the roads and don't drink and drive. For certain nationalities, an International Driving Permit is required.
Plan / We've shared more advice in this article 7 Things To Know Before Driving in Santorini. If you’re not sure whether you’ll need a car, or would prefer to go with a mix of the public bus network, taxis, Uber, and transfers, make sure to read this explainer guide ‘How To Get Around Santorini’ to get an idea on logistics, connections, and costs.
If you’ve never rented before, check out 9 Essential Car Rental Tips For Travellers
A Black Sand Beach Day
Santorini's reputation as one of Europe's chic-est, most in-demand destinations is due to those stunning whitewashed villages and luxury hotels climbing up the steep side of the caldera, rather than its beaches.
Far fewer in number than you may imagine for a Greek island, with black soot sand rather than powder white on blue, they take a little getting used to in terms of aesthetics. Frankly, if you're looking for the more traditional sorts of beaches on your Mediterranean holiday, you're better off looking at another island or another destination instead of this volcanic landscape.
However, if the colour of the sand isn’t an issue, you'd rather be based right by a beach, or simply want a sumptuously lazy day of sunbathing and swimming in between your other Santorini experiences, Perissa is our pick of the bunch.
A long stretch of beach where you can always find a spot to lay your towel down, it skews slightly younger than elsewhere on the island, but isn’t a crazy party spot. The laid-back beach resort town has a good selection of mid-range to luxury accommodations, watersports, calm waters for swimming, lots of sunloungers for rent (or included with drinks) and one of our absolute favourite bar/restaurants in Santorini.
Kamari, Santorini's better-known beach situated on the other side of Mesa Vouno hill, is very much a package holiday pick (think Irish bars and full-English breakfasts) and it's not a place we can recommend to our readers as a base or a day trip.
There’s also a cluster of low-key, rustic options on the southern side of the island - like the pebbly Mesa Pigadia beach (maps) - but they may not be quite what you’re looking for. We preferred Paralia Vlichada, backed by caramel-coloured cliffs, but you really have to go far from the busy nearby marina to make the most of it and bring everything you need; there is also an exclusive beach club on that stretch (Theros Wave Bar) if that’s your scene, but it costs €30-100 per person for a bed.
The Red Beach (maps) is oft-touted as the best beach in Santorini, and features on a lot of itineraries for photo stops, but we were underwhelmed by it in person. It’s still a decent shout for a rustic beach day, but we think arriving with suitably adjusted expectations will result in a far better experience!
By the way, the lack of fantastic beaches and sea-swimming spots in Santorini is the reason why you'll find such a high number of hotels and apartments with private plunge pools or hot-tubs; when choosing where to stay in Santorini, it's important to factor that in if you're in full-holiday mode and that’s important to you!
Do / Chill out on the beach, indulge in some watersports or hike up to the Thera Ruins.
Stay / There are lots of hotels in Perissa, but two that look particularly lovely are Aqua Blue Beach Hotel and, if you prefer adults only resorts, Meltemi Blu. This Airbnb is also worth considering, and perfect for a couple.
Those on a budget should take a look at the highly rated Utopia Hostel.
Eat / The excellent vegetarian restaurant, Tranquillo
Plan / Our Guide to Perissa Beach
SUpport Donkeys & Walk DOGGIES!
"Donkeys built Santorini".
As we explain further in 23 Things To Know Before You Visit Santorini, it is still common to see donkey rides offered to tourists on the island. This is despite widespread negative press coverage, campaigns by animal advocates, and clear facts about the cruel impact of animal-based tourism.
They are also still used by some locals as working beasts of burdens in agriculture and construction, and our Airbnb neighbour in Pyrgos had a pair that were used to make deliveries to businesses and empty bins in the morning.
Every traveller has a choice - whether to be responsible or not - and we strongly discourage any visitor against riding a donkey in Santorini. However, instead of simply hectoring, we want to propose a fantastic, worthy alternative for your time and money.
SAWA (Santorini Animal Welfare Association) was founded in 1992, and the passionate team of animal lovers continue to provide a happy home for neglected or abandoned animals, and give them a second chance where possible. At Along Dusty Roads, we make a point of seeking out and supporting animal shelters where possible on our travels, and a stop at SAWA's impressive new HQ also offered the opportunity to head off-the-beaten-track.
More importantly, it also gave us the chance to take FOUR gorgeous doggies for a walk to the beach!
Christine and Dave now care for about 70 dogs, 28 donkeys and mules, 7 horses, and a variety of pigs, ducks, chickens, and hilarious goats. Many of the donkeys bear the marks of a very harsh life of carrying loads too heavy, too often and cruel treatment, with a recent equine vet visit identifying a horrific range of historic injuries. The various packs of dogs have backgrounds and stories as diverse as their breeds, but a number were simply chained up and left to die by previous owners before being saved by SAWA.
Visitors are able to visit every morning from 9am-12pm to get to know more and take out some of the dogs on a walk along a dusty road down to a beautiful nearby beach. We had time to spare, so took two separate pairs, before joining the team in the donkey/mule/goat/pig/horse zone to spend some time with the animals and learn more.
We highly recommend visiting SAWA as one of the best things to do in Santorini. Aside from helping the team out with very enjoyable dog walks and supporting their work, it's an excellent learning opportunity beyond the sanitised version of Santorini. From the number of donkey riding tourists we continued to see - including many well beyond the suggested safe weight limits for the animal - there remain much work to be done.
There are also volunteer opportunities available, and SAWA helps many of their doggies find their forever home with past visitors and volunteers, so you may leave with more than memories...
Where | You can find SAWA on the south of the island, here on Google Maps. Once off the main road on to the dusty, bumpy backroads, your GPS may get a little confused about which left turn to take (we went down two wrong ones). We've asked the team to put up a little sign to make it easier!
There is no public transport to/from the shelter, so you'll need to arrange a taxi or go with your rental car or ATV.
When | Visitors are welcomed every day from 9am-12pm to take the dogs for a walk. Christina does an excellent job of matching up dogs with your preferences (i.e. calm with calm, energetic with experienced walkers), so be clear whether you're more comfortable with a little, quiet thing or a big lump who pulls on the lead and chases lizards. If it's a rainy, windy, or overcast day on the island, this also a fantastic activity to opt for!
Children are welcome but it's not a petting zoo, and they need to be under supervision at all times.
Tip // Shoes you don't mind getting wet and clothes you're not too bothered about getting a little dusty with pawmarks! We suggest you also bring cash to donate any amount you can if you visit. Alternatively, if you want to buy + donate items, it's best to get in touch with SAWA to check on need.
You can visit their website here.
Lunch in Ammoudi Bay & A Secret Swim Spot
When the crowds of Oia become too much, there's a little place you can go which provides the ideal change of pace on the waterfront.
And, as it requires a walk down some 250+ steps, not as many people make it as you'd think.
Relativly sheltered and secluded beneath the red cliffs, Ammoudi Bay is the old fishing port of Oia. Its clear waters sparkle under the sun and the quintissentially Mediterranian backdrop provided by the colourful old tavernas on the sea is picture-perfect.
It remains an active hub for fishing trips, water taxis, boat tours to the hot springs, the ferry to Thirassia, and catamaran cruises, so it isn't totally tranquil, but definitely provides a more relaxed setting than Oia come the afternoon.
It’s also a popular spot for in-the-know sunset drinks and dinners.
Once you reach the bottom of the stairs, take your pick from several waterfront seafood restaurants: go left for the famous Sunset Ammoudi by Paraskevas or more homely Dimitris Ammoudi Taverna, or right to Ammoudi Fish Tavern. In our opinion, those on the left have the much nicer setting, but this is a meal that you'll have to splurge out a little bit on (especially if opting for fish by weight).
We ventured down here after our Fira to Oia hike, and didn't feel the prices charged reflected the offering (but, as we explain in 23 Things To Know Before You Visit Santorini, this is a common feeling if your budget isn't unlimited or you spend a lot of time in Italy). Also, we were sweaty and not dressed up, so didn't feel like we should ruin the centrepiece meal for others! So, instead we went for some cold bottles of local beer (still €7.50 each, mind) and the bench overlooking the water at Cool Cave so that we could enjoy the setting for about €80 less.
A short walk through the left-hand side restaurants and beyond Ammoudi Bay is a (relatively) secret swimming and cliff-diving spot. The perfect post-hike spot, it's free to enter the trail and the rocks, and if you swim out toward the small fishing boat island, you can find a ladder on one side (or clamber up rocks) to the fantastic jumping-off spot!
Was the the joy on Andrew's face for that half hour in the water worth that sweaty slog back up the stairs to Oia? Absolutely.
Where | Ammoudi Bay is located beneath Oia, and you can reach it via the 250+ steps down from the entrance to Oia Castle - find them here on Google Maps. Alternatively, you can drive down to the informal port parking area (maps) but note that it can fill up and we'll leave it up to you how far up the side of the road you're comfortable leaving the car.
Now, getting down to Ammoudi Bay is fine, but the steep steps back up aren't terribly fun in the heat. It's best to go slow and don't be shy about taking a break. You will see donkeys stationed there with no shade to bring tourists up, but we strongly encourage you not to use them.
If mobility or accessibility is a concern, or your belly is full, then the restaurants will happily call taxis on your behalf to take you back up the road instead. Alternatively, there's a water taxi firm based too for onward aquatic journeys.
Travel Tip // For drinks and dinner with the sunset in Ammoudi Bay, or lunch at a good table, we highly recommend reserving a few days in advance.
Visit Megalochori
‘..and the winer of the inaugural Along Dusty Roads award for ‘Prettiest Village in Santorini’ goes to Megalochori’.
Our morning spent wandering around the cobblestone streets and blue domes of this delightful little village provided exactly that sense and scenes we were hoping to find on this spontaneous trip.
Tucked away on the southern part of Santorini, Megalochori allows you to step back in time into the impeccably preserved traditional Cycladic design and architecture of caves houses, secret winemakers. Its inland setting gives it a more serene sense than the busier coastal villages and resorts, but it does start to fill up with day trippers and tours from around 11am (but quiets down again in the late afternoon and evening).
There are a handful of family-run restaurants in and around the main square, small-scale wineries, a very highly-rated cooking class, a cute little apothecary coffee shop, cats, and several excellent accommodations options; we liked it so much that, for a certain type of traveller, we think it’s the ideal base (alongside Pyrgos) from which to enjoy and explore Santorini.
Where / Set inland on south side of the caldera, it’s a good idea to pair your time in Megalochori with stops at the nearby Akrotiri (both the ruins and the village) and the Red Beach.
Stay / Whilst the majority of Megalochori’s resorts are located outside of the village, overlooking the caldera (like the gorgeous Grand View and Azanti Suites), if you’d prefer to stay in the centre we can recommend Vedema, or the more intimate Pasithea Suites.
There are a surprisingly large number of Airbnbs in Megalachori, but two that really caught our eye are Casa Alta Rooftop Cottage and Lumis-Home.
Drink / An iced coffee at the cute little Kafeneio Megalochori
See / The viewpoint on the old churches and the bell tower
Book / The Petra Kouzina Cooking Class
Tour / The Santorini Highlights Tour visits Megalochori as well as Oia and Pyrgos
Plan / Our Short Guide To Megalachori (published soon)
The RUINS OF Akrotiri & ANCIENT THERA
The Akrotiri ruins are Greece’s precursor to Pompeii, with the Minoan outpost settlement buried and preserved by that pivotal volcanic eruption much, much earlier than a coastal Roman town was covered in ash by Mount Vesuvius.
It is of significant historical and archeological importance, and excavations have revealed sophisticated urban infrastructure for the time, including multistorey buildings, paved roads, and a complex sewage system.
As one of the most important and well-preserved ancient archaeological sites in the Mediterranean world, we had high hopes for it.
However, we felt the visitor experience was a real missed opportunity.
At €12 per adult (€6 concessions), and housed under an impressive new structure with accessible wooden walkways, we found it very difficult to actually get much from the ruins themselves. Sporadically situated explainers, no headset or audioguide, and little in the way of displays to either convey or explain the process. The ruins themselves are difficult to discern or appreciate too, with the modern materials of the new structure and various efforts at propping up the old almost outnumbering the originals.
After a Pompeii visit a few years ago, there was a gulf in the experiences.
We share this with you due to the cost and our sincere frustration when historical ruins charge a pretty penny but miss the mark on creating curiosity, and instead meet some people’s stereotypes of being just another dull set of stones.
We would strongly encourage anyone visiting Akrotiri that’s really keen to bring the site and its stories to life join a specialist guided tour; we lugged into several and got more from those snippets than the information boards. There an office for hiring guides by the entrance, but nobody was there when we visited, so we’re not 100% certain on costs or timings (let us know in the comments if you do!).
Alternatively, these two have good reviews:
· Akrotiri Ruins, Lost Atlantis, & Wine Tasting
· Akrotiri Prehistoric City Private Guided Tour
After our visit, we learned that much of the more impressive artefacts and frescoes from the digs of the prehistoric city of Akrotiri are housed in Athens or the Museum of Prehistoric Thera (maps, €6). The latter, in the town of Fira, is basically an extension of the archaeological site of Akrotiri, so you may wish to prioritise time for that rather than the ruins.
However, if it’s an area of interest for you, save yourself a bit of cash with the combined ticket, which also covers another set of ruins which we found more engaging.
A lesser known and lesser visited archaeological site, but giving a better chance to appreciate the history of Santorini and make an experience of it, is Ancient Thera (maps). Constructed atop Mesa Vuono hill and named after a leader Spartan settlers, it isn't as old as Akrotiri but its size, outdoors setting, relatively well preserved structures, information boards, and the hike / drive up to make it more interesting to visit! The site also offers breathtaking panoramic views of the Aegean Sea.
Tickets | It’s €12 per adult for the Akrotiri ruins, €6 for concessions, and the Museum of Prehistoric Thera is €6 adult entry. For Ancient Thera, it’s €6 for adults and €3 for concessions.
If you hope to visit all three archaeological sites, then you should opt for the combined ticket for €15 that’s valid for three days. Just buy it at the ticket office of whichever one you visit first!
Plan | For Akrotiri, schedule in 30-45 minutes and about 90 minutes for Ancient Thera (unless the winds up there are proving a pain).
Where + When | In summer, the Akrotiri ruins are open 8.30am-3.30pm (Monday + Thursday), 8am-8pm (Tues, Weds, Fri, Sat, Sun). In winter months, it’s 8.30am-3.30pm every day. There’s a bus stop right outside the ticket office, and free parking a little further down toward the sea or in the ‘Red Beach’ car park a short walk away. There is also a paid car park nearby if those are full.
Akrotiri is also the name of a small nearby village, so don’t get confused - find the site here on Google Maps.
Ancient Thera is open from 8.30am-3.30pm generally, but in summer it’s closed on Wednesdays and open at 11am on Thursdays. You can access it by hiking up from Perissa (45 minutes to 1 hour) or drive up the very, very switchback heavy road up which is only for experienced drivers and no joke (and was the cause of a fatal accident for two British travellers on an ATV). We have read about a minibus up there from Kamari, but I’m afraid we don’t know the details or prices, so feel free to share in the comments!
Travel Tip // The Red Beach is a short walk from the entrance to the ruins, so it makes sense to pair them together (if you still plan on visiting them!). As we mentioned earlier, the Red Beach didn’t meet our expectations and has morphed into a bit of a photo stop more than anything. However, it’s still a good shout if you want a chilled out, rustic beach spot for a few hours. Avoid the paid-for parking on the road down and instead find a space in the free dusty parking lot (maps), which you can use for both the ruins and the Red Beach walk.
Where to Next?
23 Things to Know Before You Visit Santorini
Where to Stay in Santorini
Our Guide to the Fira to Oia Hike
The Best Things to Do in Oia
A Short Guide to Megolachori
