Planning a stay or day trip to Pyrgos? We've got you covered.
The Fates may have led us to Santorini, but it was a hunch and a bit of luck that led us to Pyrgos.
The beautiful hilltop village, the highest you’ll find on the small island and a wonderful example of the Cycladean architectural style, is no hidden gem. However, when contrasted with the cruise ship crowded streets of Oia, it can certainly feel like one at times.
Its strengths from some travellers are due its perceived flaws amongst others: it’s not on the caldera or by a beach so fewer people wish to be based there; its vibe is neither glitz nor glam, but quiet and local; its elevated setting means stairs and sweat, but also panoramic views to savour.
There may be little to do, but much to enjoy.
Pyrgos felt exactly like our sort of place, and we landed on a fantastic family-owned Airbnb at short notice to make it our base for a week. For some of you, the charming village will be best kept as a day trip destination as you explore Santorini, but for others it will be the ideal place to have a slightly different experience of this popular Greek island.
In this short guide, we’ve shared our favourite things to do in Pyrgos Kallistis, as well as recommendations on where to stay, eat, and drink, plus tips on transport connections, parking, and all the little things to help you travel better on a day trip or longer stay.
This is our guide to Pyrgos, Santorini.
the pyrgos essentials
Arrive / If Pyrgos is your base, we’d recommend renting a car (we use Rentalcars and AutoEurope)
Vibe / Laid back hilltop town, much quieter than Oia
Wander / Explore the beautiful historic village centre
See / Take in the views from the Venetian Castle
Coffee / Grab a cafe freddo from Kasteli
Drink / Sunset cocktail at Franco’s
Eat / Lunch or dinner with a view at Penelope’s
Stay / Our lovely Airbnb, the luxurious Aeon Suites, or splurge at Delilah Villa
Do / Visit nearby wineries or head out on a Santorini wine-tasting tour
The Best Things To Do In Pyrgos
The Assumption of the Virgin Mary Orthodox Church
Some churches we step into on our travels just have a very special, calming sense about them, and this was absolutely the case here.
There are plenty of beautiful blue domes to photograph and admire in Pyrgos, and those tend to grab most of people's attention. The village’s largest and most important church lacks one of these, but if you take a moment to put the phone or camera away, its internal treasures will reveal themselves to be just as worthy of your time.
Built in the 1600s, with the exposed bell tower layers typical of many Greek Orthodox churches, the centrepiece of its intimate interior is a recently restored iconostasis. With three exquisite icons, the black wood is intricately carved with Biblical scenes that are almost imperceptible unless you're looking closely and the light is kind.
All day trips revolve around heading up here via the narrow, whitewashed streets, but we were the first to enter on our final morning in Santorini, and perhaps that solitude added to its impact (the chat we later had with the surprisingly Scottish caretaker also added greatly to our appreciation of it).
Outside The Assumption of the Virgin Mary Orthodox Church, there’s a lovely flower-filled square offering views and benches to have a rest after the walk up.
Where | Find it here on Google Maps
When | Opening times are hard to pin down I'm afraid, but we popped in around 9am. Visiting hours will be affected by services and shorter in winter. The church is free to enter, with a donation box if you wish to light a candle or support its preservation.
Know | As with all places of worship, it's important for visitors to act and dress respectfully. No shorts or beachwear, and take hats off on entry.
Visit The Venetian Castle
In the 13th century, the Republic of Venice established a stronghold in the eastern Mediterranean, including over the Cyclades islands. Strategically important for trade routes, they constructed castles and fortifications to repel attacks on Santorini, including those you can still visit in Oia, Akrotiri, and Pyrgos.
Given its hilltop position, it’s surprising that Pyrgos' castle was likely the last to be built around about 1580 - not too long before the arrival of the Ottomans - and there's unfortunately not really much left of it today beyond a few ruined walls and doorways. Indeed, if you didn't know that you're on the site of the old castle, you probably wouldn't even realise.
However, its location at the apex of the village is the place to find the best panoramic views from Pyrgos, which also makes it one of the very best sunset spots in all of Santorini.
Where | Find Pyrgos Kallistis Castle and the sunset spot tucked away here on Google Maps
When | Free to access and visit any time of day. If you are hoping to come here at golden hour, we’d recommend arriving a little earlier than sun down as the walls can get a bit crowded.
Iced Coffees At Kasteli 1663 Cafe & Gallery
A lovely little spot to start the day or take a break from you wanderings up and down the hill.
Serving up excellent iced coffees - which is the most popular drink amongst locals most days - as well as Santorini wines and beers, its picturesque setting by the Church of Agios Nikolaos Pyrgos Kallistis and the open-air pottery displays of Theotokaki Art is the cherry on top.
Try to nab a table outside in the carved-out arches if you can. Although it's best enjoyed at the outside tables, there's also a tiny gallery inside to check out - we don't know if it changes regularly, but it was a series of late 19th century black-and-whites from the island by by Antonis Lagadas when were were there.
Where | Find it here on Google Maps
When | Open every day from 9.30am-6pm, but double check times before arrival for winter / off-season. It does get crowded on the street and little square outside the cafe as the day progresses and more visitors arrive, so for the best ambience we'd suggest stopping by earlier in the day or later in the afternoon.
Know | Several businesses in Pyrgos continue to have deliveries made by donkeys, and you'll almost certainly see a pair in and around Kasteli in the mornings (owned and handled our Airbnb’s neighbour no less). In 23 Things To Know Before You Visit Santorini, we discuss more about the systemic issues with tourists and donkeys on the island, but we'd really encourage you to leave these working animals alone and give them suitable space if they're waiting here or elsewhere in Pyrgos. Of course, take a photo from a respectful, safe distance, but don't crowd or touch and don't go behind them - it is not fair or kind to these stoic animals to have hundreds of people do the same thing to it every hour of every day.
GET LOST IN THE CYCLADEAN STREETS & ARCHITECTURE
That signature white and blue colour palette you most associate with Santorini and some other Greek islands? There’s a name for that.
Developed in the Cyclades, a group of Greek islands located in the Aegean Sea, the eponymous architectural style is known for its simplicity and distinctive features. With a colour palette inspired by the sea and sky, its buildings typically have minimalist, cubic or cylindrical shapes that reflect the simplicity of the island lifestyle. Arches and domes are also common features, adding elegance and grace to the buildings, blending seamlessly and harmoniously with their surroundings.
Although nearby Oia is held up as the most famous and dramatic example of Cycladic architecture, we think Pyrgos gives its one hell of a run for its money.
Wandering in and around its network of narrow, curving cobbled streets and secret passageways is part of the joy of being in somewhere as beautiful as Pyrgos, stumbling on its many photogenic viewpoints, cat-filled alleyways or nooks that you have all to yourself.
As the old town streets are inaccessible by car, most of you visiting on a day trip will start your explorations of by heading up the main walkway to the right of the Kantouni restaurant (maps). From there, if you’re not in a rush, we recommend you simply follow your nose rather than a blue dot in your phone, and remember that the only way is ‘up’ toward the castle and the church (how circuitous and long that ‘up’ takes you is entirely down to you though).
You’ll pass a few souvenir shops and a jewellery place in the old cave-like buildings, and there are various small churches to admire. Getting a little lost is inevitable, and the handpainted wooden signs pointing to various bars and restaurants can sometimes cause more problems than they solve.
However, that’s all part of the fun (and we’ve shared our favourites to stop by later in the post).
Do be aware that for travellers with limited mobility, the steep-ish streets and steps may cause issues, and if you’ve got a baby, this is definitely a place to strap them into the carrier rather than attempt it with a pushchair. Also, if planning to stay one of the many excellent options in the historic area of Pyrgos, bear in mind that you’ll have to leave the car down the hill and carry your luggage up.
Know // Pyrgos was our base, so we got to experience it with and without the crowds. On a couple of evenings walking back from restaurants, we would literally see only one or two other souls (usually feline), and it was a total shock to experience that in Santorini. In the early morning, the streets of Pyrgos were also our and ours alone to explore until about 8.30/9am. However, as with most other places on the island, from about 10am to 3pm there are always quite a lot of tour groups and day trippers, which changes the atmosphere and can create some bottlenecks on the slender streets.
If you’re taking a bus for a day trip, or have got a rental car, we recommend trying to time your visit depending on your preferences.
Eat At Penelope's & OTHERS
With the ambience and good range of restaurants available, we recommend day trippers timing their visit for a lunch stop before or after your village wanderings. There are a few places we specifically recommend checking out, as well as others that caught our eye or fit the bill if you’re looking for somewhere with a bit fancier.
Penelope’s // The menu at the small, family-run restaurant had us salivating on first glance.
Homemade dolmade, tzatziki, mashed fava beans, tomato balls and sagnaki, it's all served up on a terrace offering perhaps the best Insta-backdrop in Pyrgos. The food is fresh, traditional and homely - nothing to go wild about but reasonably priced - and inside there are various woodwork tools and photos on the walls from multiple generations. The breakfast menu is quite uninspiring, so we recommend stopping by lunch or dinner instead.
If a grey-and-white cat happens to joins you for dinner, and we mean literally sits at your table, please give her some fuss from us.
Penelope's is about half-way up on the walk to the Castle - find it here on Google Maps.
Kantouni // Set down in the main square at the foothills of the village (so not about views), the service was great and all the food we had was delicious. The small-plates are pretty generous portions, and we'd recommend a lunch or dinner of those if you're looking to sample a few different Greek flavours (the sardines wrapped in vine leaves were brilliant, as we there the mint fritters). Brusco is another restaurant next door, but note that they have distinct outdoors dining areas which are often and easily confused by day trippers looking for one or the other.
Cava Alta // An Instagram follower who lived on the island for a couple years recomendded Cava Alta to us, and we were really disappointed to only pass by for a look. Nestled away in an old winery building on a side street in the old part of Pyrgos, it's only got a small outdoors eating area, but the stylish indoor dining area makes up for this. Modern Greek and Mediterranean menu.
Ioannis Fousteris Bakery // For anyone watching the pennies, or not looking for a full-on meal on a day trip, the bakeries dotted around Santorini are a great shout. This place had excellent spinach & feta stuffed pastries for a couple of euro, good coffee, and a custardy-pastry creation that was really good. Lovely people working there too. Open daily from 6am to 10pm, but best to visit before 2pm before the savoury snacks sell out.
Alchemia Lounge Cuisine // Part of the new wave of businesses in Pyrgos reflecting the pivot towards the more contemporary, boutique sort of travel style, it offers a modern dining experience with interpretations of traditional dishes and an emphasis on local ingredients, and a decent vegan/veggie offering. Most day trippers won't know about it unless they seek it out, but as it was just down the road from our Airbnb, we decided to check it out for breakfast. Really tasty and prices weren't as high as we'd expected either. Their terrace has views of the sea, the hills and the vineyard.
Pyrgos Restaurant // On the outskirts of the villages, this restaurant has excellent reviews and a stunning dining area with amazing views of Fira snaking its way up the hills in the distance. We didn't fancy it for ourselves, but it's definitely one to consider for a special / romantic occasion (suggest booking).
If you would like somewhere within the old town of Pyrgos with views to savour whilst you dine, consider Rosemary (Google Maps)
Johnnie Cafe // Very popular with locals, we stopped for breakfast on our last morning and can happily recommend if you like what’s on offer (the coffee wasn’t great though).
A Sunset Drink A Franco's Cafe
The pick of the most famous Santorini sunset spots are, understandably, on the caldera side.
However, for those who are in the know and prefer to bring the day to a close away from the crowds of Oia and Immergivoli, the rooftop of Franco Colombo's bar is the place to go.
In the same hilltop square as the church, it offers strong cocktails, a dramatic classical soundtrack, and a captivating viewpoint over the rooftops of Pyrgos out toward the caldera and the Aegan sea in the distance, with the setting sun falling betwixt and between them all.
It can be a bit chilly up there, especially if it's one of those windier Santorini evenings, so it's good to bring a layer. They also have blankets for sunset watchers.
Franco’s is open from 10am and do food too, so you can choose to just have a drink / lunch there if you're not able to stick around for sunset.
Where | Find Franco's Cafe here on Google Maps. Taking a wrong turn once or twice is inevitable, but just keep an eye out for the little wooden signs pointing the way. Once you go through a short tunnel, you’re almost there…
When | Open every day from 10am to 10pm. For sunset drinks, we recommend arriving at least an hour before sundown to grab a good table and make the most of the show; in high season, getting in touch to reserve a table is a sensible idea if you want to guarantee a spot.
Travel Tip // After the sun goes down, an up-and-coming spot for a fancier drink in Pyrgos is Capri (maps). As with Alchemia Lounge Cuisine, it's part of the new wave of businesses in Pyrgos reflecting the pivot towards the more contemporary, boutique sort of travel style. It's good that the village is getting a few of these, but we hope they don't swamp it and change the vibe too much from the excellent balance found at the moment. Open from 6.30pm to 2am, and you can access it down the secret stairs from the old town or via the road.
A Few More Things To Do In Pyrgos
Wine Tasting & Vineyard Visits / As we explain in the 13 Wonderful Things To Do in Santorini, there is a historic, deep-rooted wine culture in Santorini, with the island viewed as the star of the Greek wine scene.
If you're based in Pyrgos or visiting it on a day trip, then it makes a lot of sense (purely from a cultural perspective you understand) to swing by one or two the nearby, well-regarded wineries.
Hatzidakis Winery is just six minutes away by car in on direction, whilst Santo Wines and Venetsanos Winery are five minutes in the other, so you can take your pick. The latter two have stunning caldera side bars for a glass, and all offer tours and tastings.
Alternatively, if you'd like to learn more about Santorini's wines and visit a few producers and farms, then it's best to join a specialist tour like this highly-rated one which lasts half a day, visits three wineries and includes 12 wine tastings (plus nibbles).
Take A Hike / Although the Fira to Oia hike is the one you should prioritise for your time in Santorini, we headed out on a few we found that begin or pass through Pyrgos. The best option is the 4.7km out-and-back trail up to Prophitis Ilias Monastery for views and displays on wine-making and religious relics in its little museum - find the route here.
Hiking routes 5 (to Episkopi) and 8 (to Vothonas and Mesaria) also pass through Pyrgos.
We use AllTrails to find the best hikes on our travels.
Day Trips from Pyrgos / As mentioned, Pyrgos is an ideal alternative base if you’re not looking to be based on the caldera or a beach. From village, you’re a short drive from the famous villages, viewpoints, and attractions. We had a rental car for the week so that we could explore to our own schedule and go off-the-beathen path, but you can also head out by bus, tour, or with a rented ATV. A super popular activity in Santorini is to hop on a boat trip, either for Volcanic Islands Cruise with Hot Springs Visit or Sunset Catamaran Cruise (with Fresh BBQ & Drinks).
Where To Stay in Pyrgos
Pyrgos Hotels & Suites
Santorini is quite unlike other popular European holiday destinations in that the traditional guest house or hotel set up is not the norm. Instead, you’re more likely to book a suite or villa i.e. a small free-standing or adjoined building with its own outdoor space, often with a hot tub or pool. Communal areas and hotel restaurants are less common, with breakfast often being served in your own suite. Because of this, we will note which hotels offer more traditional facilities.
Zannos Melathron | One of the only hotels in the heart of Pyrgos old town, Zannos Melathron offers a wonderful blend of luxury, tradition and classic styling. Located within a 19th century mansion, it is ideal choice for those that enjoy a more sumptuous aesthetic over the minimalist Cylades designs. Find out more here.
Other popular options for those that prefer hotel-like facilities include Alleys All-Suite Hotel & Spa and Smy Santorini Suites & Villas and the beautiful Christou Estate & Villas, which offers just three villas within a private estate surrounded by olive, cypress, and pomegranate trees.
Aeon Suites - Adults Only | If you are escaping to Santorini for a child-free break (or just prefer to be around the grown-ups), consider this beatiful collection of suites perched on the cliff just below the medieval castle. All rooms are impeccably designed, with splashes of colour amongst the traditional Cycladic whites, and may also include private plunge pools. Excellent breakfast included and the reviews are plentiful and excellent. Find out more here.
Another excellent adults-only option is the stunning Skyfall Suites.
Voreina Gallery Suites | Perched on a hillside in the village, Voreina features uniquely decorated suites in earthy tones, finished with original sculptures and artwork - all of which come with a private hot tub or pool. Situated overlooking the caldera side, it offers amazing sunset views which are not always easy to find in Pyrgos properties. Note that breakfast is served in your room. Find out more here.
Nova Luxury Suites | Perhaps the most popular - and highest rated - place to stay in Pyrgos is this hotel complex just outside the historic centre. They offer a selection of modern and comfortable rooms spaced around a luxurious communal pool. Rooms are, large, light, bright and modern with plenty of sumptuous touches (especially in the larger suites, most of which come with a private hot tub or plunge pool. Find out more here.
Two other hotel options that caught our attention are Apikia Santorini and Halcyon Days Suites.
Top Tip // We been travelling with our new Antler suitcases this summer (they had their season debut on this Santorini trip), and have been absolutely delighted so far - the taupe colour went particularly well with the Greek island aesthetic.
Pyrgos Airbnbs & Apartments
If you’re visiting Santorini and are not in the position to pay hundreds a night for your accommodation, we’d highly recommend opting for an Airbnb over one of the above options.
Our Airbnb | The one-bedroom house that we secured at relative short notice was everything we wanted - peaceful, offered a huge terrace overlooking the sea, had a great little kitchen and was really very affordable. It’s family-run too. This won’t suit those that like their accommodation a little more bouijie but was absolutely perfect for us! Find out more here.
Other good value options in Pyrgos include Votris House, Elena's Cave House and the super cute and popular Olyra Traditional Cave Houses.
Liasto Traditional Cycladic House | Located in the heart of Pyrgos, we actually spotted this Airbnb’s huge and enviable private terrace on our wanderings around the village. The interiors of this one-bed are a little less luxurious, but its outdoor space makes it a firm favourite and a highly-rated option. Find out more here.
Be sure to also take a look at 1906 White Cave Studio, found a literal stone’s throw away from the above property, the truly beautiful nearby Demeter Cave House which offers a hidden-away jacuzzi, sleek and modern interiors and a gorgeous terrace and this two-bedroom deluxe villa perfect for a couple that want a little more space.
Vista Dall Alto 1 | This stunning Airbnb is as beautiful on the outside as it is on the inside, with luxurious touches throughout including sumptuous decor and a gorgeous little infinity plunge pool with uninterrupted killer views. Find out more here.
If you like the above aesthetic, but require a little more space, be sure to take a look at this stunning (and huge) two bedroom that has the most gorgeous terrace.
Deluxe Villa | For those looking for a luxurious couples retreat complete with plunge pool, private balcony with views of Pyrgos and beyond don’t miss this stunning property. As a bonus, it also includes daily housekeeping and concierge. Find out more here.
Delilah Villa | Probably the most luxurious offering on this list (and with a price point to match) but we couldn’t not mention this gorgeous two-bedroom villa. Just 200m from Pyrgos’ main square but with uninterrupted and peaceful countryside and sea views from the large and stylish rooftop terrace, replete with small pool. The interiors are just as wonderful, with a contemporary-cave vibe throughout. Just fabulous. Find out more here.
A good alternative to the above, but with a more classic aesthetic is the beautiful Andromaches Villa with private pool.
Other properties which caught our eye include: Amorous Villa, Santorini Amelisa Cave House, Star Infinity Suites and Wine and Yard Caves Santorini.
Three bedroom accommodations are a lot rarer, but do exist in Pyrgos. M&D Stories Santorini, Kyveli's House and Domenica Home are all beautiful, highly rated and ideally suited to larger families who need more space or groups of friends travelling together. Alternatively, if you’re looking for somewhere really special, take a look at the stunning Bliss Mansion.
HOW TO GET TO pyrgos & TRANSPORT CONNECTIONS
Santorini is a small island, and most of you will arrive by flight to Santorini (Thira) International Airport JTR or at Athinios Port if travelling by ferry from Athens or another Greek island.
How you then choose to navigate Santorini will largely be based on your budget, base, trip length, and travel style. For some, it's going to make sense to hire a car at the airport, whilst others will prefer to rely on a combination of the excellent public bus network, taxis, and highly-rated Santorini tours.
We've shared more information to help you decide in our explainer post: How To Get Around Santorini
In terms of transport connections in and out of Pyrgos, this is what you need to know:
FROM THIRA AIRPORT TO Pyrgos
The airport is the most convenient and affordable place to pick up a rental car for your trip, and usually much cheaper than taking taxis, transfers, and just renting a car in Pyrgos for a day or two.
We recommend looking + booking via Rentalcars.com and AutoEurope, both of which we use when doing road trips and hiring cars in Europe. It's a good idea to check and compare on both to find the best deal available for your trip!
From the airport to Pyrgos, it’s a 5km/10-minute drive.
Unfortunately, despite its proximity to the airport, there’s no direct bus, so you would have to take the airport bus to main town of Fira (10 minutes / €1.60, and transfer there for the Fira to Perissa bus). Alternatively, the on-demand shuttle bus at arrivals costs €15 per person, but you have to wait until there are 4-6 passengers for the same destination. A taxi will cost in the region of €20.
Alternatively, you can book a pre-arranged private transfer here, that will meet you at the airport arrivals.
Find Santorini / Thira Airport here on Google Maps.
BUS TO Pyrgos
The public buses on Santorini are excellent and affordable way to travel, but often full and can sometimes make it feel like you're just part of a big tour group.
There’s a regular direct bus that travels between Perissa Beach and Fira, stopping at Pyrgos; those of you staying in Oia or Imergovili should connect in Fira.
You can find the main bus stop in Pyrgos here on Google Maps, on the main road passing through the modern part of the village. You can find all routes, timetables and prices on the official KTEL Santorini bus website.
For more information on routes, connections, and tips to avoid the worst queues, read How To Get Around Santorini
FROM ATHINIOS FERRY PORT
On the southwest side of the island, close to Pyrgos, Athinios Ferry port is where you'll arrive if travelling by ferry from mainland Greece or the islands.
Note that it's sometimes referred to as 'Thira Port' or 'New Port', but is not the port used by cruise ships in Fira with the cable car. To avoid confiusion, its port code is ATI and you can find Athinios Ferry Port here on Google Maps.
If you're planning to travel between a few Greek Islands, two websites are an excellent resource for the country's ferry timetables, routes, and tickets: FerryHopper and DirectFerries.
From the port, you will need to find a bus heading to Fira as these will often stop at Pyrgos along the way, costing €1.80 per person. Do check with the driver first however, as some go direct to Fira instead. Alternatively, you the close proximity of the port to Pyrgos means you may find taking a taxi to much easier (this should cost €15-20).
Do note that in peak summer the small port can become very crowded and busy, meaning you may have to wait a while for your onward transport or to find a free cab. Alternatively, you can make things more convenient by pre-booking a taxi or transfer, who will be waiting for you off the ferry.
There are a several car rental companies down there too, but prices are usually much higher than at the airport - you can book with the main companies here by selecting 'Santorini Port' under the pick-up locations. Do note though that it is a very steep, twisting ascent from the port, and not recommended for inexperienced drivers.
RENTAL CAR + PARKING
There are a few agencies offering car rental in Perissa if you want to rent for a single day or spontaneously, as well as ATV rentals if you want something a little more adventurous to explore Santorini.
There’s also a single car + ATV rental company in Pyrgos for spontaneous rentals, but we recommend comparing prices and availability via Rentalcars or AutoEurope. as well for cars. Hiring direct from the company in town may be more convenient, but prices are usually cheapest if you collect and drop-off at the airport.
Note that prices are dependent on time of year, with increases of around 35-50% from low to the mid + high seasons (see 23 Things To Know Before You Visit Santorini for more information).
As mentioned earlier, we recommend booking a rental car in advance of your arrival and collecting it at the airport for the best deal - find prices + availability for your dates on Rentalcars and AutoEurope.
If visiting Pyrgos on a day trip, the best place to head to are the free car parks here and here. Note that hotels and apartments in the historic centre won’t have on-street parking, so choosing a place outside there may be preferred if close access to your car is more convenient.
For more advice on conditions, insurance scams, and driving permits, make sure to read '7 Things To Know Before Driving in Santorini' (published soon)
Pyrgos Kallistis | Amenities
For day trippers and those staying in the village, here are a few handy personal tips:
· On the main road that passes through the modern part of the village, you’ll find a few mini-markets for snacks and supplies, as well as the bakery and some of the restaurants we mentioned earlier. If you’re renting an Airbnb or self-catering, these are fine for a few items, but it’s best to do a big shop at the larger supermarkets a drive away.
· There’s a couple Euronet ATMs in Pyrgos, which you should avoid due to the fees and poor exchanges rates costing you more. Better to go with the Piraeus Bank ATM by the bus stop, but note that it may charge you for withdrawals depending on your bank/country. We recommend getting a Wise card for Europe, and you can learn more about how we avoid ATM fees and shit conversion rates when we travel in this post.
