Planning a trip to climb the many, many stairs of the Tiger Cave Temple complex? It’s definitely worth the physical effort, and our short guide shares everything you need to know before you go.

"Congratulations! You have conquered the Tiger Cave temple mountain. You have ascent 309 metres Vertically along a 600 metres path Comprise of 1,260 Steps"

With the amount of sweat still dripping down, we didn’t really feel like slapping each other on the back on first glance of the enthusiastic, overly capitalised sign.

A slightly chaotic journey through the backstreets of Krabi meant our sunset ascent toward a giant golden Buddha wasn’t particularly spiritual or mindful, but more of a breathless slog with twitching thighs and suncream-stung eyes.

But, at the top, the first sight of karst mountains bathed in a honey-orange glow to one side and the countryside never-ending to the other saw all aches quickly subside.

That was all the congratulations we needed for conquering the Tiger Cave Temple mountain.

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In this guide, we’ve shared everything you need to know before setting out to visit the Tiger Cave Temple (Wat Tham Suea) and enjoy the panoramic views from its limestone mountain. From an overview of transport connections from Krabi and Ao Nang and a realistic assessment of how difficult those 1,260 steps really will be for you, we’ve also shared our travel better tips on the dress code, the monkeys, temple etiquette, and important advice on whether you should decide to visit at sunrise or sunset.

This is our guide to visiting the Tiger Cave Temple in Krabi.

How To Get To The Tiger Cave Temple

From Krabi Town

From Krabi Town, it’s a straightforward 9km drive to the entrance, and you have several options to get there:

Rental Scooter | A popular option judging by the number of bikes at the complex. Expect to pay 200-300 baht per day, and it took us 20 minutes from Krabi Town in our rental scooter.

Taxi | Either opt for a shared or private option, costing 100 baht per person /300 baht total respectively.

Songtheaws | The cheapest option to reach the Tiger Cave Temple from Krabi, these are the converted red pick-up trucks which operate as public transport. We know they definitely collect from outside the River View Hotel (Google Maps), but they also pick up all along Utarakit road on the way to the temple - it’s therefore a good idea to ask your accommodation where’s the best/closest place to stand. A one-way journey is 50 baht per person, but note that that the songthaews stop on the road near Wat Tham Seua, rather than taking you right to the entrance, so you will have to walk for 15 minutes to reach the temple complex.

From Ao Nang

From Ao Nang, it’s a 30-minute/20km drive by car but you should bump that up to around 45 minutes if travelling by scooter.

Rental Scooter | Scooter rental in Ao Nang also costs between 200 and 300 baht per day. As this route is along busy main highways, it’s important to note that this should not be your first time driving a scooter, and we’ll be writing a post with lots more info on driving in Thailand.

Taxi | Journey time is around 30 minutes, and a private one-way taxi from Ao Nang will cost in the range of 500 baht to 600 baht, but you may have to look around for it. At the cluster of taxi drivers where they have a printed out sign of their prices, they list it as 1,500 baht for a round-trip but they would definitely be open to negotiation. You should also check out fares on the GRAB Taxi app.

Songthaews | There are direct songthaews from Ao Nang to the Tiger Temple, costing 150 baht per person, but note they also don’t drop you off at the entrance. Alternatively, you can connect to one in Krabi Town. The Ao Nang songthaew service starts at 6.30am, with departures every 10 minutes. If there’s a group of you, it wouldn’t be a bad idea to commission one privately for 500 baht.

Other Beaches | If you’re staying on Railay Beach or Tonsai, then you will obviously require a boat transfer to the mainland first and make arrangements from there. From Klong Muang and Tu Baek beaches, travel time is 45-55 minutes and taxi prices are in the 2,000 baht range.

If you’re using taxis, you can easily negotiate a round-trip fare and pick-up time, and that may be best if you have fixed plans for the rest of the day. Alternatively, you will be able to find a few waiting around the temple entrance for the return journey, and we’d personally prefer the flexibility of that rather than having to rush our time at the top or on the 1,260 steps (you may have to wait around a wee bit though to find a waiting tuk-tuk or taxi).

However, as we cover in more detail in the ‘Travel Better’ tips section, we highly recommend having return transport pre-arranged and waiting for you if you’re heading here for sunset.

Alternatively, you can visit the Tiger Cave Temple as part of an organised tour.

The pick of the bunch is this highly-rated sunset tour, with hotel pick-up and drop-off included. Alternatively, you can opt to combine the Tiger Cave with visiting several other popular attractions in Krabi region - this is a super popular full-day tour with excellent reviews.

Alternatively, this full-day Krabi tour offers the same itinerary, and may work out a little cheaper.

Lastly, if you prefer to shop around, the multitude of tour agencies, hostels (we stayed at Pop In Hostel which offered a group sunset tour for 400 baht per guest) and hotels also offer or arrange round-trip transport excursions from Krabi Town, Ao Nang, and other accommodation hubs.

The Tiger Cave Temple COMPLEX & Etiquette

First things first though, it's important to clear up some confusion we had before deciding to visit Wat Tham Suea.

This is not the infamous Tiger Cave Temple that was shut down in 2016. That one is a few hours outside Bangkok and specialised in barbarity and cruelty to tigers in the name of tourism, with 147 of the animals being rescued prior to its closure.

Krabi's Tiger Cave Temple thankfully has nothing to do with it, and doesn't have any animals except a few rampaging, thieving wild macaque monkeys, so you should have no ethical concerns about visiting.

Built in 1970s, Wat Tham Suea is a relatively modern Buddhist temple and monastery complex, and the 'Tiger' part of its name stems from a few legends. The most prominent is of a monk meditating in its (now) famous cave in 1975, and having visions of tigers prowling around within. Other stories say that a massive tiger once lived here in the caves, that the name is because of tiger footprints found in the walls, or because a rock formation in the cave looks like a tiger's paw.

So, lots of tiger stories, but zero captive tigers (a very good thing*)

Today, the large site straddles three distinct worlds: an important spiritual temple for Thai Buddhists, an active meditation, study, and accommodation centre for monks and nuns, and a very popular tourist attraction due to remarkable panoramic views found atop the mountain with a massive Golden Buddha.

It's those wonderful views that most travellers come for but, due to the Tiger Cave Temple's holy credentials, and the presence of monks and nuns across the complex, one of the most important things any visitor can do is dress modestly and act appropriately.

This means no beach or swimwear, no short shorts or revealing vests, and keeping tops on no matter how sweaty or hot you get on the long walk up. It's best to keep noise to a minimum in and around the site, but particularly within the Tiger Cave and by the massive Golden Buddha, with no kissing or dickhead-ish behaviour.

Worshippers, and respect for them, also take priority over your own photos or experience.

We provide a few more tips on dress code in the 'Travel Better' section at the end of the guide.

It is also vitally important to appreciate that a certain etiquette and level of respect is expected around monks in Thailand. You will see some mediating, walking, or working, and the best approach is to simply take a moment to silently enjoy this cultural moment, rather than photograph or disturb them.

* Whilst we’re here, we should also note that elephant tourism activities are still heavily advertised in Krabi, but none of them are ethical or legitimate sanctuaries (and many of them don’t even pretend to be). We advise against visiting any of them, and please do research before going to any animal-based activity in Thailand. World Animal Protection have a good article to learn more on elephant tourism do’s and don’ts.

Visiting The Tiger Temple | Things To Do

When you arrive in the main car park amongst the trees (maps), the first stop is the 99-metre Chedi which is currently under construction. Continue straight from there through the yellow and green decorative gate, and you’ll find a multitude of signs - many of which are pure poetry from the translations - and a beautifully ornate red and gold tower pagoda dedicated to Kuan Yim.

The stairs to the mountaintop pagoda, which you’ll want to make a beeline for if in a hurry, are signposted on the left hand side (find them here on Google Maps)

The Steps & The Views

The views and the Golden Buddha atop the mountain are found after a climb up 1,260 very steep steps.

That's one thousand, two hundred, and sixty up, and the same back down.

There’s no lift, no shortcut, and no 'easier' way up.

So, the first thing to work out is whether you're fit, able, and happy to go up 1,260 steps in the Thai heat.

The good news is that they really are just steps - solid, man-made, concrete, and well-maintained with metal handrails - rather than a mixture of slippery wooden slats on a dusty hiking trail like you’ll find on Dragon Crest Mountain. This means it's much more accessible to all sorts of people, and you don't need any experience, kit, or prep. There were lots of young children going up and down with parents and, although we didn't see many older travellers, we know that all ages manage them.

Although really narrow and steep in sections, and slightly unforgiving about half way through, they will be eminently manageable if you go at your own pace.

How long does it take to climb Tiger Cave Temple Krabi? Supposedly, the record time to go up them is just a smidge under 10 minutes, but it took us 35 hot, sweaty, breathless minutes. Some of you will manage to zip up in half an hour, whilst others should plan to take it slow, have frequent rests, and reach the top in closer to an hour.

Rather than age, the main limiting factor to completing the 309-metre vertical climb will be your level of fitness and mobility, and we suggest that anyone who has real concerns in that area arrives with ample time, realistic expectations, and temperatures on their side.

It’s the effort and breathlessness combined with the sticky heat which will pose the biggest risk.

Once at the top, before taking your shoes off and entering the pagoda, there is some welcome shade and a seating area to get your breath back, as well as a free filtered water refill (we used our Water-To-Go filter bottles). You’ll want at least half an hour up there to savour the details and the views.

Lastly, if you’re in a group or behind several people, just be patient and understanding if others go at a slower pace or are struggling on the journey up/down.

Sunrise or Sunset?

After you've worked out whether you're happy to have a bit of a physical struggle on your trip (short answer: yes), the next big question is whether to visit the Tiger Cave Temple complex at sunrise or sunset.

Now, here at Along Dusty Roads we're not against a very early rise for a hike or special experience, and our initial plan was to set the alarm for 5am so that we'd have plenty time to drive the scooter in the dark and head up the stairs just before the sun came up.

However, three weeks of travel, several dives, and a few too many margaritas to deal with basing ourselves in the shit show of Ao Nang, simply caught up with us: the snooze button and a lie-in was the more attractive option in the moment that morning.

Foolish? Possibly. Sensible in some ways? Probably.

Sunrise at Tiger Cave Temple may allow you to have the views without the crowds, but there would be drawbacks beyond the very early wake-up call. Unless you arrange a tour or private transport, it involves a cold drive in the dark (easier from Krabi Town than Ao Nang) and the stairs up don't have lights. However, you would be doing the hardest part of the walk in the coolest temperatures, would have an astounding golden hour, and also give yourself the rest of the day for other activities or beaches (with a well-deserved nap).

Plan // 13 Wonderful Things To Do in Krabi (published soon)

However, the good news for late-risers is that sunset was stunning, and far better than we'd dared to hope. It in no way felt like a poor second-choice, but it isn't without some caveats.

The first is that we saw a group of about five younger travellers arrive at the top just after the sun had dipped below the hills as they'd underestimated timings, the stairs, or both. The second is that depending how long you stick around, you will descend the stairs in the quickening darkness - by the time we'd made it to the bottom it was pitch black.

And finally, we would not recommend driving back to Ao Nang in the dark to inexperienced or nervous drivers. However, if you booked a sunset tour with transport, you wouldn’t have to be worried about that aspect.

So, if you're currently in a quandary about whether to visit for sunrise or sunset, the positive is that both will offer a memorable experience. If you arrive for sunrise, make sure leave the Tiger Cave and foothills (more on those below) until after the Golden Buddha, but for sunset you need to ensure you cover these off first and still leave yourself enough time to ascend comfortably.

Whatever you do, do not visit the Tiger Cave Temple in the middle of the day. We’re genuinely not sure we would have made it to the top during peak heat, and even the most fit, hydrated and acclimatised traveller would be worse for wear!

Lastly, note that the Google Maps listing for Wat Tham Suea Krabi has the closing time as 4pm, which is incorrect: you are 100% able to arrive after that in order to climb up for sunset.

Book | The Tiger Cave Temple Sunset Tour

The Tiger Cave Temple & Foothills

As discussed earlier, the Tiger Cave Temple is not at the top of the stairs or the mountain; you'll find it at the bottom in the yellow building shortly before the staircase, and this should be visited before or after your climb.

Inside, amongst the various statues of Buddha there are usually monks meditating and worshippers, and we didn't really feel it was appropriate to take photos when we were there.

At the back, a path takes you to the tiger footprint.

As we were prioritising getting up for sunset and were in a bit of rush after the journey on the scooter took slightly longer than expected due to roadwork diversions, we didn’t explore more of the complex beyond those two principal sites. However, if you have the time, energy, and inclination, there is a a short loop trail you can follow toward lesser-visited ‘wonderland’ forest and caves, where monks often live and meditate.

This trail is accessed via a staircase to the left of the large red and gold Kwan Yin statue (here on Google Maps) - do let us know in the comments if there’s anything else to add here!

Travel Tip // Remember to take your shoes off before entering the temple and also before entering the Golden Buddha area.

Travel Better Tips

· Let’s talk about those monkeys. They are infamous at the Tiger Cave Temple, with several hilarious signs warning visitors about their pickpocketing and aggressive tendencies. Whilst we heard them on our way down, we actually didn’t see any (possibly due to our later finish time meaning they'd already had their fill of victims and loot that day), but have heard and read many reports of them becoming quite aggressive. The main advice is to not feed them, avoid eye contact, keep food to minimum, watch your belongings, and give them anything they’re trying to nick rather than risking a bite.

· In terms of the dress code, women are advised to wear loose clothing which covers the shoulders and chest, and goes to the knees; if you arrive without this, there is a free rental service for sarongs at the bottom. Men should avoid wearing vests and beachwear, and everyone should conduct themselves with respect throughout the temple and monastery complex.

· We did the steps in Birkenstocks and Tevas, but trainers will offer the most comfortable experience.

· Expect some part of your leg to hurt for the next day or two. Andrew’s calves and achilles were really aching, perhaps because we’d also done the Dragon Crest Mountain hike the day before the temple stairs, but thankfully going for a couple’s massage in Thailand is very affordable.

· On the stairs, there are a few small rest areas, but they’re not large enough for lots of people to crowd on at once. If you see someone going slow or struggling, be patient when you’re behind them, and give them room in the rest areas.

· There are various places by the entrance to eat or grab a cold drink before and after, but the majority of these were shut by the time we completed the sunset walk.

· You need to bring plenty water with you for the Golden Buddha climb. We always travel with our Water-To-Go filter bottles, meaning we can safely fill up from nearly every source, and the free filtered water tap at the summit was very very welcome. These bottles were great for our month in Thailand, and you can get a 15% discount if you use the code ADR15 on the official website (we recommend the Active type).

· It was a surprisingly long drive back to Ao Nang on the motorbike along highways at dark, and we wouldn't recommend it for nervous or inexperienced drivers. Andrew has a CBT in the UK and full insurance for driving scooters / motorbikes abroad, so please do exercise caution and common sense.

· If you arrive at the bottom in the dark, like we did, you’ll find the place quite empty and a number of dogs milling around. Although we adore each and every single pooch we meet, after a dog bite walking the loooong way to Machu Picchu we’re now much more aware of territorial dogs. Although most here will be perfectly fine, we did pick up a few stones just in case we needed to warn off an aggressive posse, and recommend you to be super cautious too if there’s not many people about.

· We spotted one sign on the way up that stated solo female travellers shouldn’t walk down by themselves after 6.30pm. We’re not sure whether this has any basis, but having descended around the same time together, we’d agree that it’s a pretty good idea. Irrespective of your group size, be sure to have a flashlight with you to lead the way.

· Lastly, visiting the Tiger Cave Temple is a really excellent activity, and is totally free. However, you will see many donation boxes across the complex, and we encourage you to leave something there to support maintenance and restoration.