Planning a trip to Uruguay's capital? Keep on reading to discover our favourite things to do in Montevideo and where to stay!
Completely updated in January 2023
In many ways, Montevideo feels like it has been abandoned. Graffiti crawls up the sides of government buildings, litter blows along empty streets and, in decaying tower block apartments, it appears that nobody is home.
It is all just so quiet. Can this really be a South American capital? Where is the endless noise, the teeming streets and the suffocating fumes of big city congestion?
Of course, one can't be too surprised that capital of a country with just a smidge over three million citizens feels a little less chaotic than the metropoli of its big brother neighbours. Montevideo instead moves to its own, understated rhythm.
As there was very little buzz about it on the traveller trail, we were a little unsure of how we would spend our time in the city. Yet, despite there being no big-ticket tourist attractions, over the course of our three day stay we both fell for the city's hidden charms.
montevideo essentials
/ Capital of Uruguay
/ Beautifully broken down historic centre
/ Several good city beaches
/ Big street art destination
/ Don’t miss the Sunday market
/ Meat eater? Head to Mercado del Puerto
/ Abundance of excellent galleries & museums
our top things to do in montevideo
Join a Walking Tour
One of the best ways to get to grips with a new city is on a walking tour. This is especially true if you’re only in town for a few days and want to make sure you cover all the highlights whilst allowing some time to zone in on other activities and attractions that appeal to you the more.
In Montevideo, you have two options:
Join a free walking tour
Head out on a paid for group or private tour of the city.
Depending upon what type of traveller you are, it’s likely that you’ll be best suited to one, and not the other.
There are a surprisingly large number of free walking tour companies in the city, all of which last for around about the same amount of time (a couple of hours) and cover a similar section of the city (usually the ciudad vieja - the old town).
This one has excellent ratings, and several departure times each day, but we have also heard good things about Curioso Free Tours. These are ideal for budget backpackers as you only tip what you feel, but some travellers may find the large group size and lack of personal attention problematic.
Which brings us on to the second option: the paid tours.
This popular, highly-rated 3.5 hour tour is well-priced and covers not only the historic centre, but other important attractions such as markets, and even the soccer stadium. You can find out more and check availability here.
Explore the old and new in la Ciudad Vieja
For those that don’t really do tours, this is the section for you
As with many of the cities we have visited, it is within the old town that the real beauty and character is found. A palette of pastels and brushed grey, oversized weather worn doors, family run restaurants with vintage signs and crates of fresh fruit so perfectly arranged that is difficult to believe it was accidental.
Under a cloudless sky, Montevideo's La Ciudad Vieja is an Instagrammer's dream - so don't forget your camera.
You will likely encounter the vast majority of the city’s most important historical monuments and buildings by simply exploring on two feet, but just in case, put these sights into your map:
Plaza Independencia | This palm tree lined plaza is the city’s’s most important square, and where you’ll find many of its significant municipal buildings. It also marks what was once the limit of old Montevideo. Find it here.
Teatro Solis | Opened in 1856 and built to replicate the grand European theatres of its time (it bears a remarkable similarity to Teatro Metastasio di Prato near Florence), Teatro Solis was the first of its kind in South America. Having undergone a complete renovation in 2004, it now plays host to a packed year-round calendar of opera, plays, ballet and orchestral productions. You can find a full list of what’s on here or alternatively if you’d just like to have a look inside, you can join one of several guided tours held throughout the day - find the theatre here.
Palacio Salvo | Originally designed as a luxury hotel, this architecturally impressive building - you can see it in the above right photo - delighted and dismayed in equal measure when it first opened back in 1928. These days it mostly consists of corporate offices and private residences, but the building, and its incredible view, are accessible on a guided tour - find out more here.
You can reach Ciudad Vieja by taking any bus to Plaza Independencia, and head west, straight down the street behind the last remnants of the Puerta de la Ciudadela.
Top Tip // For those that need to have their sight-seeing punctuated by a caffeine hit, be sure to check out Sinestesia, a desperately cool coffee shop with cakes to die for and a lovely outdoor area from which you can watch the world go by.
get lost and found at the Sunday Flea Market
Held every Sunday, the Tristán Narvaja Street Market is the largest in the country and an absolute must for anybody that visits the capital on the weekend.
A haven for those seeking artisan handicrafts, mate paraphenalia, antiques, old books and their weekly supply of fresh fruit and veg, even those who choose to spend nothing will pass hours exploring the myriad of stands that sprawl throughout the narrow streets of central Montevideo along with what seems like the rest of the city's population.
The details | The market is held of Sundays from 9 am to 4 pm, although do be aware that most of the crowds and some of the stalls will be gone after 3 pm.
There’s no fixed route that you should follow, but we recommend beginning your explorations at the corner of Tristán Narvaja and Avenida 18 Julio.
Keep Reading // Check out our photojournal from the Tristan Nirvana Street Market.
Try mate for the first time
Despite encountering mate obsessed Argentinians throughout much of our travels, we clearly didn't understand the meaning of true addiction until we arrived in Uruguay. You cannot walk more than a few paces down any street before passing someone clutching a cup in one hand and a flask of hot water under the other. It wasn't a surprise when we learned that the country consumes more kilos per person of the stuff than anywhere else.
So, where better to try it for the first time than in the capital of the world's most prolific drinkers?
If you can't join a 'mate circle', then your options are limited, as it's not the sort of drink you can just buy at every cafe. Thankfully, La Materia Canaria in Mercado Agricola de Montevideo will ease you in gently and provide you with your own mate cup full of yerba, bombilla (straw) and flask of hot water.
**Unfortunately, it looks like the Materia has closed down. We're trying to find a replacement for you guys, but should the urge take you, we have no doubt you'll find someone to share their mate with you!**
Once you've drained your flask, or given up trying to like its bitter taste, take a while to browse the market. There's a fantastic empanada place next door to the Materia and a variety of excellent quality grocery stores, plus a few cool places to grab a drink or meal.
Keep Reading // Want to know more about the importance of mate culture in South America? Check out this article.
Visit Fortaleza del Cerro
Perched atop the highest hill in Montevideo is Fortaleza del Cerro, a fort built by the Spanish to defend the city’s port.
But we’re not sending you up here for the building - it’s the view that’s worth seeking out.
To reach the fort, take either bus 124 or 125 from the city center, which will drop you off at the Terminal Cerro; from here it’s a short walk. If you would like to enter the fort, plan your visit for between Wednesday and Sunday, when it is open from 10 am to 6 pm (in the winter it shuts at 4 pm). The entrance fee is UR$20.
Top Tip // If all this sight-seeing makes you thirsty, you’ll be pleased to hear that there’s a pretty excellent craft beer scene in Montevideo.
Get the meat sweats at Mercado del Puerto
If there's one thing Uruguayans love almost as much as mate, then it's meat. Although Montevideo has a burgeoning restaurant scene, the pick for most visitors (and a number of locals) continues to be lunch at the bustling Mercado del Puerto. Although the eats were out of our budget (plus not too much fun for a vegetarian), we'd recommend a visit to everyone, whether you're dining or not.
It's all incredibly atmospheric. There are over a dozen restaurants - some fancier than others - within the beautifully restored building plus a few watering holes which look like they haven't changed in decades. Families sit around long tables to share an entire carcass, work colleagues perch on stools, gossiping over a steak and wine, whilst cooks sweat over the myriad of open fire grills weighed down with beef, chicken and pork. Outside the market, there's a few souvenir stalls, jewellery sellers and the odd busker or two, mingled in with throngs of Brazilian tourists and men advising you to visit their store for some marijuana.
The Details | You can find Mercado del Puerto here on Google Maps. It is open daily between 11 am and 6pm, and will be at its busiest around lunch time.
Ramble along la rambla
There are few better ways to get to know a city than to simply walk its streets, and in Montevideo there are few better places to walk along than La Rambla, an avenue that takes in the entirety of the capital's coastline.
Whilst some sections are a little run down, the road extending from Playa Ramirez to Playa Los Pocitos lines white sand family-friendly beaches replete with volleyballs nets, seafood restaurants and grassy knolls. At any given time of day, you will share the curving paths with roller-bladers, cyclists, runners and people simply out for an afternoon stroll - on a sunny weekend, you'll find the entire city there!
For those that wish to cover the entire 22km avenue, bike rental is very popular. Lots of hostels provide them for free or at a small cost but for those that are looking for a rental company, Orange Bike seems to be the most popular choice.
Top Tip // Don’t forget to look up! Located along the Rambla (here on Google Maps) is a very curious building known as Pittamiglio Castle, the eccentric legacy of local alchemist and architect Humberto Pittamiglio. We only chose to admire the facade, but it’s also possible take a tour of the interiors, of its stairs leading to nowhere, labyrinthine corridors and hidden rooms. Tours cost UR$125 per person, and further details can be found on the official website.
Hang Out at the Beach
As we discuss above, the length of La Rambla is home to Montevideo’s numerous city beaches.
And whilst you won’t find Uruguay’s best beaches here, there are a couple along this stretch which are worth a visit - especially if you’re in Montevideo during the summer when temperatures can become quite unpleasant amongst the city’s streets.
Our pick of the Montevideo's beaches were Playa Ramirez (maps) and Playa de los Pocitos (maps).
Top Tip // As Montevideo directly faces the estuary of the Rio de la Plata, the waters lining the coast can appear rather murky. They’re clean, but feel free to stick to the sand rather than the sea!
Jailhouse Art
In our experience, museums of contemporary art can be a little hit or miss, often leaving us scratching our heads at what on earth the artist was trying to say. Whilst some of the exhibits in Espacio de Arte Contemporaneo definitely fell into this category, this particular gallery is well worth a visit - if only for the building in which it is housed.
Converted from an old prison, the west wing has been revamped with each 'cell' now home to the work of individual artists. At the end of a cavernous hallway, a wall of glass separates the old from the new, whilst the east wing remains just as it was after the final prisoner departed.
The Details | You can find Espacio de Arte here on Google Maps. Opening hours vary depending upon the specific room / gallery, with the photo-gallery open Monday to Sunday 9 am to 8 pm. We recommend visiting the official website for the full opening hours.
Entry is completely free for all exhibition areas.
Top Tip // To continue your education in Uruguayan arts, don't miss the Centro de Fotografia, showcasing the very best of the country's foremost photographers - we loved it! The Centre is open from Mon to Fri from 10 am to 7.30 pm, and Sat from 9.30 a. to 2.30 pm.You'll find it here, at Avenida 18 de Julio 885.
Get Your Museum On
In addition to the galleries mentioned above, the capital plays host to a number of excellent museums spanning history, culture and art. The entry fees for most are very well-priced (or completely free), so there’s plenty to occupy yourself with if you happen to be visiting Montevideo during the cooler winter months.
Museo Andes 1972 | In 1972, a plane carrying a team of Uruguayan high school rugby players crashed into the Andes mountains, stranding them in snow and ice in a remote part of Argentina; this museum pays tribute to the 29 people who died (as well as the 16 who survived). The museum is open Mon - Sat, 10 am to 5 pm and costs UR$300 per person, with concessions available. You can find the museum here.
Museo de Arte Precolombino e Indigena (MAPI) | This excellent museum has a permanent collection of artifacts and documents that explain the life and traditions of the now extinct indigenous peoples of Uruguay. (alongside exhibits concerning indigenous groups across the Americas). MAPI also acts as an educational and cultural center and facilitates creations of work highlighting Uruguay’s Indigenous cultures. The museum is open Mon - Sat, 10.30 am to 6 pm and costs UR$150 per person. Find it here on Google Maps.
Museo Nacional de Artes Visuales | Comprising national and international artists (including some of the world’s most prestigious), this vast museum holds one of the largest collections of art in Uruguay. You’ll find traditional art on the first floor, and modern pieces on the second. The museum is open Tues - Sun, 1 to 8 pm and entry is free. Find it here on Google Maps.
Museo de la Memoria | Opened in 2007 this emotive museum offers insights and context on the country’s 12-year civic-military dictatorship, as well as honouring the 200 Uruguayans who disappeared during the junta (the Desaparecidos). The museum is open Mon - Sat, 12 to 6 pm and entry is free. Find it here on Google Maps.
Taranco Palace Decorative Arts Museum | For those keen to get a glimpse behind the stunning Art Deco facades of Montevideo’s prettiest buildings should consider visiting the grand Taranco Palace, formerly the house of the Ortiz de Taranco family. The museum is open Mon - Fri, 12.30 pm to 5.30 pm and can be found here on Google Maps.
Museo del Cannabis | Whether you’ve crossed over into Uruguay from Brazil or Argentina, you’ll soon notice that marijuana is very much legal here - this museum charts the course of the country’s progressive laws and the plants current role in Uruguay. The opening hours are limited (12 - 8 pm on Wed and Fri), so we recommend confirming before you go. Find it here.
Museo Juan Manuel Blanes | Located in Prado Park, this small museum showcases the work of Juan Manuel Blanes, one of Uruguay’s most famous painters. The building it’s housed in is also beautiful! The museum is open Tues - Sun, 12 pm to 6 pm and entry is free. Find it here on Google Maps.
Museo del Gaucho | Uruguay is famous for its gauchos, and this museum chronicles their history, culture and enduring nomadic spirit. As a plus, it’s housed in the stunning Palacio Heber. It’s free to enter, and you can find it here on Google Maps. (This museum is temporarily closed)
Seek Out the Street Art
For years, the streets of Montevideo were painted, and murals bled from wall to wall. Some fine works of art, often with political undertones, others basic vandalism, simple tags or claims to the barrio where they were found.
In 2014 however, a city-wide ban on indiscriminate graffiti was brought in, with designated areas where the artists could paint, and rolling schedules for new art works to emerge.
Whilst not all ‘artists’ across the city have adhered to this ban (you can read more about that here), this evolution has allowed for the creation of various open-air street art galleries across Montevideo, and anyone with an interest in the art form should make an effort to track down some of the city’s best.
Much of Montevideo’s best street art is located around the Espacio de Arte Contemporaneo, but you can find a great outline on where to find the rest in this post.
Get your party on at carnival!
Whilst the carnival celebrations in Rio or London may be more famous, it’s Montevideo’s that are by far the longest, stretching up to 60 days between January and March.
Beginning with the Inaugural Parade at the end of January, at which candombe drummers parade with dancers along central Avenida 18 de Julio, the following night is the turn of Samba schools, where performers dressed in colourful carnaval outfits dance through the street.
In February, it’s time for the Las Llamadas parade which features candombe drummers performing whilst walking the streets of the Afro-Uruguayan neighbourhoods of Barrio Sur and Palermo.
If you’re in the city between these dates however, you can still visit one of the many tablados (stages set around the city), where there’s frequent public performances.
If like us, you visit Montevideo outside of the Carnaval season, consider taking a trip to Museo del Carnaval which showcases the history, costuming, drumming, and lore of Carnival in Uruguay. The museum is open Mon - Fri, 11 am to 5 pm and costs UR$120 per person. You can find the museum here.
Alternatively, every Sunday in the late afternoon, drummers can be found gathered in Barrio Sur to play candombe – simply follow the sound of the drums to find the group.
Take A Day Trip
We spent three weeks working our way along the coast of Montevideo, but if you haven’t that long to spare, the relatively small size of Uruguay means that it’s possible to used the capital as your base and head out on day trips.
Two of the most popular include:
Punta del Este | In a country with a serious summer beach holiday vibe, Punta del Este reigns supreme. Indeed, if you happen to be in the country between December and February, you simply have to visit this seaside resort. You can find full details on the best things to do in Punta del Este in our guide, and how to reach it with public transport. However if visiting on a day trip we recommend considering a tour to make the most of your time with our having to worry about transport connections - this one is super popular and has excellent reviews.
Colonia del Sacramento | If beautiful colonial towns and relaxed vibes are more your thing, consider instead visiting the UNESCO World Heritage city of Colonia del Sacramento. As with Punta above, it’s theoretically possible to visit independently with a day trip, but at three hours each way with the public bus we’d recommend taking an organised tour instead - this one has great reviews.
Where to stay in Montevideo
Whilst Montevideo is considered small for a capital city, with its main attractions spread over a relatively large area it can make choosing where to stay difficult, and accommodation searches a little daunting.
For this reason, we’re putting together an in-depth blog post on ‘Where to Stay in Montevideo’, with the city’s best hostels, hotels and Airbnbs. Only problem? It’s not published yet. So, until then we wanted to provide a small selection of all three types of accommodation, and including places we’d be delighted to stay.
Oh, and one more thing - like all of the popular tourist spots along the Uruguayan coast, during peak season accommodation books up fast, so if you’re visiting between December and March, don’t leave your reservations up to the last minute or you may find your choices severely limited.
Montevideo Hotels
Coming soon!
Montevideo Hostels
Destino 26 | This is the fantastic little hostel that we stayed in. We had the pleasure of staying in their beautiful double room furnished with solid handcrafted furniture, comfy king sized bed and private balcony, the latter providing a fantastic sun drenched spot to savour a bottle of the country's excellent wine after a day of sight-seeing. They also have a number of dorms available, with big lockers to secure your valuables.
Facilities included a great outdoor area, fast wifi, tour and city information plus a TV/social lounge. Their breakfast goes above and beyond what we've come to expect in this part of the world with fresh fruit juices, good coffee, a variety of cereals and fruits plus toast and the ubiquitous dulce de leche. For your evening meals you have the choice of utilising their large, well-stocked kitchen or using the large outside BBQ for a traditional Uruguyan asado. The staff were friendly and spoke excellent English - we'd happily recommend the hostel to other travellers visiting Montevideo.
Travel into and around montevideo
Travelling Around Montevideo
Make the most of the excellent public bus system to navigate between the bus terminal, Pocitos and the Old Town. The most common type of bus ticket to ask for is 'una hora', which costs $26 pesos. Usually there is a man in a little stall on the left hand side of the bus who takes your money and gives you the ticket. Aside from the bus, we spent hours walking from neighbourhood to neighbourhood, which is our favourite way to discover a new city and, due to its size and the fact that's it's consistently found to be one of the safest cities in South America, you can happily cover a lot of Montevideo on foot.
In addition to our suggested activities, there is a daily free walking tour (tips encouraged), starting at 11 a.m. from Plaza de Independencia. Football fans may like to visit the national stadium or the football museum to learn about how this little country has been one of the heavyweights of the beautiful game, whilst it is possible to take trips to wineries outside the city.
How to Get From Buenos Aires to Montevideo
The easiest way to reach Montevideo from Buenos Aires is one of the regular daily ferries that depart the Argentinian capital - which you take however will likely depend upon your budget:
Ferry to Colonia del Sacramento with bus connection to Montevideo
Direct ferry to Montevideo
The reason we say that it depends upon your budget is that there is a significant price difference between the two options.
The direct ferry is the most convenient and transfers you between the two cities in a two hours and 45 minutes, however it costs £109 / $127 USD.
The indirect route (ferry to Colonia and bus to Montevideo) is significantly cheaper starting at £42 / $49 USD but takes up to four hours and 45 minutes!
To compare the two ferry options, see full availability and times plus book your ticket, see this site.
To / From Montevideo by bus
If you are reaching Montevideo by bus, you will almost certainly arrive into the Tres Cruces bus terminal.
If you’re staying in the Cordon area you may be able to walk to your accommodation however most people will need to take wither a local bus or a taxi to their accommodation - these leave frequently just outside the terminal, but if you’re in any doubt we recommend speaking with an assistant in at the info point inside the station.
Onward travel from Montevideo is straightforward, with frequent westward connections to Colonia del Sacramento (two hours and 45 minutes hours, around UR$480 pesos) or eastward travel to the coastal town of Punta del Este (two hours and 13 minutes, approximately UR$380).
How to Get From Montevideo Airport to the City
For those whose first stop in South America is Uruguay, or who are flying into the country from elsewhere, you’ll arrive at Montevideo Airport, located around a 30 to 40 minute drive from the centre of the city.
To reach your accommodation from the airport, you have three options:
Taxi | There is an official taxi rank outside arrivals, and prices depend upon you final destination. For example, a journey to Ciudad Vieja costs UR$1,800, whereas Pocitos is UR$1,350. For full details on standard fares by destination, see this link.
You may be able to secure a cheaper rate on Uber, which does operate in the country.
Shuttle | Alternatively, you can arrange pre-arrange a private shuttle. These cost around the same as a taxi but may be a good option if arriving late at night and want the certainty that you have a ride booked. This one has good reviews.
We have read about a shuttle bus but are unable to find any further information - if you use and recommend this service, please let us know in the comments so we can update this post accordingly.
Local Bus | The cheapest way to reach the city from Montevideo Airport is with the local bus. There are three bus companies that service this route - Cutcsa, Copsa and COT - and these run every 12-15 minutes between 6 am and 11 pm, and every 30-40 minutes between 11.30 pm and 5.30 am.
The set fare is UR$65 (around $2), and you pay in cash directly to the driver.
Journey time is around 45 minutes to one hour depending on the traffic, and the buses terminate at the centrally located Rio Branco Terminal - find it here on Google Maps.
Your Next Stop
Now you’ve discovered our favourite things to do in Montevideo, it’s time to explore more of Uruguay! You can either head to our dedicated country page, or alternatively take a look at these related articles below.
How to Plan Your Uruguay Travel Itinerary
Our Favourite Things to Do in Punta del Este
Getting Lost at the Market | A Photo Journal Of Tristan Narvaja Street Market
Five Things to Know Before Travelling the Coast of Uruguay
