Planning to hike the Valbona Pass, starting in Theth or Valbona?

Our definitive guide has got you covered!

What does one do if they're not entirely sure of the best direction to do an eight-hour day hike in the Albanian Alps?

Do it both ways, across two days!

The Theth to Valbona hike in the northern Albania was one of the highlights of our first trip to the country, and added so much more depth to our travel experience there. The mountain peaks and scenery on offer is truly breathtaking and, although a few mistakes along the way made it a little more challenging, it certainly ranks amongst the most beautiful trails we've ever done.

We may have gone to Albania for its golden beaches, but we left our hearts in these silver mountains.

Hyperbole isn’t really something we do at Along Dusty Roads, so it really means something when we say Theth-Valbone trek went straight into the top three day hikes we’ve ever done, anywhere in the world.

The hike is the easy bit though, with the access in and out of the wonderfully named Accursed Mountains being a bit of a logistical nightmare; we spent more hours than we'd care to share trying to work out the best way to make this hike fit in with our two-week Albania itinerary, with lots of scrumpled up paper and a dozen or so revisions.

The goal of this guide is to save you that trouble and wasted time.

We couldn’t help but feel our solution of hiking both ways on the same trail in two days was somewhat ridiculous, so it was heartening to meet several other couples doing the same thing (some of whom were starting and ending in Valbonë). It also means we can provide a more well-rounded opinion on which way is better, and help those who only plan to hike one leg to decide which is the right way for them.

Whether you're going by bus, shuttle, or your own vehicle, in this practical, no-nonsense guide, we'll share the essential things you really need to know before taking on the hike to the Valbona Pass. From whether to start in Theth or Valbonë, transport connections to and from Shkoder, a realistic take on how difficult it is and the kit you need to pack, to clear advice on what do with your rental car, where to leave your luggage, accommodation picks, the pros & cons of doing it both ways or opting for the ‘quick’ version, how to fit in Lake Komani, a section not to bother with, and a few travel better tips to make the mountain trail even more memorable, we'll cover everything we really wish we'd known before we set off into the Albanian Alps.

This is our guide to the Valbona Pass from Theth and Valbonë.

the essentials

Point / Start and end in Theth or Valbone
Choose / Options to do a short or longer route
Where / Valbonë Valley National Park
When / Open June to Oct - do not attempt other months
How / Can be done independently with a car or bus, or with a popular tour from Tirana like this one
Time / Hike is 6-8 hours one-way (but you need 2 to 3 days for all the logistics)

The Theth Valbona Pass Hike | The Three Routes

The Valbona Pass is found within the newly formed Alps of Albania National Park, in the isolated far north of the country.

To access the Pass, its peak and most photogenic areas, you need to walk all or part of the 14.7 km Theth-Valbona hiking trail. It’s all up, then all down, with a few challenging steep parts, but is a hike that any traveller with a decent level of fitness and mobility should be able to complete.

Before finalising any itinerary and setting out, the most important thing to establish is whether you want to do:

· The shorter ‘half way hike’ from Theth or Valbona | 5-7 hours | 7-8km

· Do the full 14.7km point-to-point trail from Valbona to Theth, or vice-versa | 6-9 hours

· Hike the full 14.7km trail in both directions across two days, which we did

On shorter Albania trips or for travellers who don't hike very often, the 7km 'short version' will require less planning, physical fitness, and energy; it will also free up more time in your Albania itinerary. It involves just going up to the Pass (effectively ‘half way’), then going back down to where you started. We were surprised to see how popular this option was, as we imagined most would be doing the full-hike, but we'll outline the main logistical reason why it may make sense for you and why so many people opt for it.

The full 14.7km trail is the best known, and you can start it in either Theth or Valbona (Valbonë), which are two small isolated mountain villages in gorgeous settings either side of the Pass. It will take you from 5 to 8 hours to complete the full trail depending on which side you start, your pace, and whether you take a taxi to or from the proper trailhead in Valbona (not the one people mistakenly label as the start or end point).

We did it both ways in two days because we had a rental car, there was only inconsistent or unclear information online, and we like to give ourselves a challenge if it means we can help others travel better in the future. We also like to hike, and it was actually reassuring to discover a few others who were also doing it both ways. The primary reason anyone does it both ways though is because of logistical necessity due to the lack of roads and transport connections in northern Albania.

By the end of this guide, you'll know exactly which option and start point is best for your travel style, budget, and itinerary.

The Valbona Pass Trail Is Only Open In Summer

Serious point here, and we're sorry if it ends up scuppering some of your plans.

The Valbona Pass is only open from early June to October, and it is unsafe to hike outside these months. The reason for the short, and relatively late, opening is that much of the ice and snow in the Albanian Alps doesn't start to clear until around May (like in the Italian Dolomites), so the trails are blocked off.

In recent years, the Theth-Valbone hike hasn't actually reopened until around the second week of June!

Now, if you're reading this and thinking 'how bad can it really be', this where we get serious.

In May 2022, a Swiss traveller fell to their death on this hike, and two tourists also lost their lives after falling off the cliff in May 2023. There is absolutely no reason on earth for anyone - whether they've hiked a bit in the past or not - to irresponsibly head out on this trail until it is safe and clear to do so.

Once the snows have cleared and the wildflowers bloom, the trail also transforms into one that is safe and relatively straightforward, with no specialist equipment or experience required.

Plan | 23 Things To Know Before You Visit Albania (published soon)

You Can Start In Theth Or Valbonë...

If doing the full hike, you will start in one village and finish in the other.

They really are in a stunning location, with the peaks of the Albanian Alps acting as a constant backdrop, and due to transport connections it's a good idea to plan to spend at least one night in each.

Theth is easier to access by road and more developed for tourism, with a cluster of restaurants, campsites, guesthouses, and a few shops. There was a new road being built through it, and the winding mountain road that brings people to it was very recently improved too, and it feels like it will only continue to establish itself as the main hub in the region. Theth also offers a short Blue Hole hike, which is more enjoyable than the more famous one further south.

For road trippers, the drive there and back is worth the journey on its own terms, and we think it's the best and easiest start point if you've got a rental car or camper van (inexperienced drivers may not agree). However, that all changes if you really want to visit Komani Lake, which requires taking your vehicle on the ferry over to Valbonë.

Valbonë is much more spread out along the river and road. It's got a few larger hotels for mountain holidays, as well as a handful of guesthouses and hostels, but not much else on offer except the beautiful mountains and the peaceful environment. It really is an idyllic setting and, for hiking holidays and people who don’t want to be around others, probably the better fit than Theth (we absolutely loved our night at Guesthouse Mehmeti)

There are five main factors that will determine whether you start or stay in one or the other:

1. Whether you're doing an Albania road trip or taking the buses and/or ferries.

2. The trail from Valbone to Theth is a bit easier, and can be done in an hour or two less than the Theth-Valbone route. That was our experience at least, but two other couples we spoke with who also did both ways in two days were in 100% agreement. The descent from the peak to Valbone was particularly tough on the knees, whilst the descent from the peak to Theth was easy.

3. Transport connections to both Valbonë and Theth are very limited in frequency and availability, and there are only two access roads of varying quality. If you're depending on the daily buses from Shkodër, then your start point may be decided by availability more than anything else, and we met one girl who said her hostel gave her no option but to go the Valbonë way.

4. Whether you want to visit Komani Lake (maps) or not. If it's a 'yes' and you're travelling independently by car or buses, then it's going to make Valbonë your most likely start point for the hike after visiting the lake.

If it's a 'yes' and you take a multi-day Valbona Valley hiking tour which takes care of all transport + logistics, then you'll likely start in Theth and spend time at the lake after the hike. If you are considering joining a hiking tour for the Valbona Pass, this is a highly-rated option

5. If you want to stay in the mountains for a couple more nights after the hike, then starting in Valbonë and ending in Theth is the better option due to amenities, other activities, and connections.

...But Set Off From Shkodër (Shkodra)

Whichever village start point you decide on for the hike, and however you're travelling to it, you should make your way to city of Shkodër first.

The fifth largest in Albania, steeped in political history, it's the ideal pitstop before the Accursed Mountains and after crossing over from Montenegro. As it's only 90 minutes from Tirana, it's a very convenient place to spend your first night or two after flying into the capital (which is exactly what we did on our road trip).

It's also where the buses depart for Theth and Komani, road trippers access the only decent roads to both, and most Valbona Pass hiking tours start.

So, it's fair to say that Shkodër is the gateway to the Albanian Alps and Lake Komani, and the majority of travellers will spend two nights there in total (one before the hike, one after). Handily, lots of the hostels and hotels in the city will store your luggage and backpacks for free or a small fee if you want to bring in only what you need for the Theth-Valbonë hike!

We've written a complete guide to this very pleasant city by a lake so that you can plan ahead, but as a quick tip we can personally recommend the following two accommodations:

· Shkodra Backpackers Hostel | An old school hostel in the best possible way, with a great vibe, fascinating owner, so many interesting rooms and curios, plus dogs! They have dorms and private rooms.

· Hotel Tradita | The biggest and comfiest bed, with an excellent shower, was exactly what we wanted to come back to after the hike and drive down from the mountains. They also have a private car park for guests. Note that there is also a bit of a touristy restaurant with live traditional music in the evenings.

Alt // Shkodër is a 100% worthwhile addition to any itinerary, but you will also find tours for the Valbona Pass that start and end in Tirana, the capital city and place most will fly into for standalone Albania trips.

If you have no plans or desire to rent a car and do not have time for Shkodër, then it may be a good idea to consider joining one of these tours. The below are very highly-rated with lots of positive reviews:

· Tour of Valbona and Theth in 3 Days from Tirana

· From Tirana: 3-Day Komani Lake, Valbona and Thethi Tour

There Is Only One Bus from Shkoder to Theth

Despite the increasing popularity of Albania and this hike in particular, transport options to the mountains for independent travellers remain very, very limited.

There is only one bus from Shkodër to Theth per day, leaving at 7am (€12 per person 2-2.5 hours).

There isn't a company website or other way to book this minibus (furgon) online, and it does sell out. Booking it through your hostel in the city is therefore the easiest and best option. If you don't have flexibility on dates, we suggest getting in touch with them before your arrival to see if they can reserve / pre-book your seat.

Unfortunately, there is also only a single shuttle running back from Theth to Shkoder, departing at 11am.

To travel from Shkodër to Valbonë, it's also just one 6.30am minivan departure per day, followed by two more stages:

1. Shkodër to Komani Lake bus | 6.30am | 800 lek | 2 hours

2. The daily ferry across the lake to Fierze | 9am | 1000 lek | 2-3 hours

3. Bus from Fierze to Valbonë | 800 lek | 1.5 hours

In total, it's about 7-8 hours and you'll be dropped off at your accommodation in Valbonë around 2.30pm. This route is a really popular option for backpackers, and it's also possible to do it in reverse (which usually means a less crowded boat).

Thankfully, it’s now possible reserve + buy your ferry ticket in advance on the Berisha Ferries website, and it includes the option to add on your bus tickets from Shkodër and to Valbonë at the same time.

As above, this ferry sells out in summer, so it's best to book in advance once you know your dates.

There are a few other ferry + boat companies operating different schedules on Komani Lake, including Rozafin and Alpin, so do look into those options as well if there is no availability. However, we're hesitant to give a recommendation as in the summer we visited, there were two days when all the ferries and boats suddenly stopped running because the police raided and arrested a bunch of 'illegal operators'...

Cars are also able to go on the 9am ferry, charged at 800 lek per square metre, so cost in the region of €30-45 for a regular vehicle (they tell you how to work it out on their website). Spaces are very limited to about 20 or so cars.

However, road trippers choosing to include the lake and ferry may have to hike the Valbona Pass twice, or only do the short route. This could be a good thing for your itinerary, or it may cause significant issues with your Albania road trip overall. This is the main sticking point for anyone with a camper van or renting car, and we’ve got a dedicated section on this crucial logistical point at the end of the post!

Finally, you are also able to source private transfers from Shkoder to Theth (€80-120) or Komani Lake (€80-100)

So, to sum up, if you’re travelling without a camper van or rental car, your best routes are as follows:

· Shkodër > Komani > Fierze > Valbonë > Hike to Theth > Overnight Theth > Stay longer or bus to Shkodër

· Shkodër > Theth > Hike To Valbonë > Overnight Valbonë > Stay longer or bus to Fierze > Ferry to Komani > Komani to Shkodër

If the planning or logistics side of things puts you off, then consider one of the slightly more affordable three-day self-guided hiking tours where all your transport and accommodation is organised by the company, but you do the hiking on your own.

Updates // As we personally did not take the Komani Lake ferry, we welcome any updates on prices, departures, tickets, or tips in the comments below! Note that there are also an increasing number of accommodation + activity options in and around the artificial Komani Lake, which is becoming a better known destination in the country, so depending on your budget that could open up options for your hike route and overall itinerary.

The Theth To Valbonë Route

Ok, let’s get to the actual hiking bit shall we?

After a delightful breakfast at our guesthouse in Theth, enjoyed in the still early-morning air and set against a backdrop of towering mountain peaks, we set off towards the trail.

And our little feet didn’t stop until 9 hours later.

What seems like an eternal up culminates in the most incredible views from an alpine peak (that last scramble up the scree to the highest point of the trail is a challenge not everybody attempts, but it’s well worth extra push) before heading steeply back down towards the Valbone Valley, through true-life film sets seemingly stolen from the Sound of Music.

Even the last couple of tired kilometres across the small rocks of a dried-up river bed were punctuated as frequently by ‘wows’ as they were ‘are we nearly there yet’.

The hike from our accommodation in Theth to the point at which we jumped in a taxi was a an 18 kilometre route, which took us nine hours to complete. The reason for the extra kilometres and hours over the advertised 14.7km/7 hours? Because the actual endpoint of the hike in Valbonë is (surprisingly) quite a bit away from the guesthouses - we expand on this important point later.

Of course, there were also lots of stops for photos, a short lay down amongst wild flowers, about 30 minutes to enjoy the peak and another 45 minutes for a beer break a couple of hours before the end. You could definitely complete it much quicker, but most people should set aside a full day.

Start Point | Signposted on the rocky road, just after the mini-market - here on Google Maps

End Point | Depending on who your speak to, it’s either here before the dried up river bed or after there dried up river bed (maps), which makes about an hour’s difference to your end time

Total Time | 7-9 hours, depending on breaks

Tip // Depending on where you stay in Theth, you might be a 1-3km walk from the start point, so fact that in to your alarm clock and departure time.

The Valbonë to Theth Route

Overall, we preferred the hike going from Valbone to Theth.

Yes, the section up to the peak is bloody hardcore, your legs will scream and your lungs will hurt but the views from this perspective more than make up for it. Additionally, the route back down to Theth from the peak is infinitely easier in reverse, so much so that we actually ran most of the way.

We also had a deadline as we had to drive back to Shkodër in the afternoon, so that definitely put a little pep in our step!

We made it down to Theth about five and a half hours after we began hiking.

Start Point | A point of contention. Some think it’s here on Google Maps before the dried up riverbed, but some will be better off skipping the riverbed and taking a car to the the actual start point a few kilometres away here on Google Maps

End Point | At the entrance to Theth village, we were sweaty, a little sunburnt, almost certainly dehydrated, very dirty and utterly famished; we’re not sure what genius decided to open a pizza restaurant a couple of hundred metres after the hike finish line (Pizzeri Jezerca), but it’s fair to say that it was a very astute business decision. Cold beer, Coca Cola, white carbs, cheese and tomato never tasted so good!

Total Time | 5-7 hours, depending on breaks and whether you take the taxi across riverbed

The ‘Half Way Hike’ To The Valbona Pass

It’s self-explanatory, and you just follow the instructions above from your accommodation in Theth or Valbonë.

It will still be a decent day of hiking though, and you need to factor in walking for at least 6-8 hours.

However, as you will be hiking an easier and shorter trail overall, you get the benefit of being able to enjoy more time up at the panoramic views from Valbona Pass and its peaks, and we’d recommend bringing a packed lunch or least some snacks for that.

Also, don’t stress too much about whether you should do it one way or the other, but if you don’t hike often or are in poorer condition, you should probably opt for Theth as we think it’s an easier route profile and terrain.

The peak is pretty obvious when you arrive at it but, for sake of completeness, you can find it here on Google Maps.

Total Time | Plan for 3 hours up to the peak from Theth, then 2.5-3.5 hours back down.

From Valbonë, 2.5-3.5 hours up, then 3.5-4 hours back down and along to the end of the riverbed.

Top Tip // Also, if you’re doing this from Theth and have the time, we highly recommend continuing down from the peak of the Valbona Pass toward Valbonë. About 30 minutes after the top, you’ll enter one of the most scenic part of the whole trail with glorious views, so you can enjoy those before turning back to Theth.

Skip A Section in Valbonë

We will use far less expletives than we did upon discovering that, after you get down towards Valbone after a long day of hiking, you still have a long way to go.

Much longer than we anticipated.

At this point, we were hot, tired, and sweaty, and a terrain of chunky loose rocks along a dried up river bed with no shade was the last thing we needed.

We persevered, walking an extra hour to the car park at end of the riverbed by the Hotel Fusha e Gjesë Rragam. Realising that our lovely little family guesthouse was another 6km along the tarmac road, we cried a little hallelujah when our saviour turned up in the shape of a white British van converted into a multi-seater taxi.

It was the best €10 we’ve ever spent, and meant two cold bottles of well-earned Peja beer, much-need showers, and quickly-devoured homecooking were within reach much sooner.

So, what went wrong?

The current information out there about the official end point of the hike, and how to get to your Valbone accommodation (do you walk or find another way?) is lacking and frequently incorrect.

This affects people hiking in each direction, and there a few things you should know before you waste time or energy:

· The trail from Valbonë to Theth sort of has two start points, which become two ‘end’ points if you’re coming from Theth.

· The first is found at the western side of the village, in a car park at the end of the tarmac road and next to the Hotel Fusha e Gjesë Rragam - find it here on Google Maps. It’s clearly marked with a a large green information sign and map for the Valbona National Park (Parku Kombëtar I Valbonës) and yellow signs for Theth and other trails.

· The second is found 3km from the car park, towards Theth - here on Google Maps. It involves either a 60 minute walk along the rocky dried up riverbed OR a bumpy 20-minute drive.

· If starting from Valbonë, you can choose to walk that 3km at the start of your hike or take the car. If you are walking from Theth, it’s very unlikely there will be a car waiting at the end of the trail so, unless you manage to get a cafe/restaurant to give one a call (not sure if that’s possible) you should bank on having to walk the extra 45-60 minutes to the car park.

The riverbed has really nice views, but to be honest we were done by that point; you wouldn’t have the same attitude at the beginning of your walk.

· Most importantly, your accommodation in Valbonë will be anywhere from 0-7kms away from the car park. Unless you are on the strictest of budgets or start early, there is no point walking along the tarmac road the start or end of your hike to the Valbona Pass. It will simply waste time + energy in the morning, or be a slog in the heat of summer if you’ve already been walking for 6+ hours.

If you’re staying closer to the start point though, by all means crack on! Otherwise we recommend asking your accommodation the night before to book you a 4x4 taxi that will pick you up in the morning and take you along the river bed to the second start point, thereby giving you more time to enjoy the hike and the Valbona Pass. If you want to feel less like a cheat, then at least consider getting the €10 taxi to the car park start point!

And, if you’re hiking from Theth to Valbonë, do double check where your accommodation is along the road. Guesthouse Mehmeti was perfect, save for being 6km from the car park, but Hotel Krojet e Rrogamit and Fusha e Gjes Hotel are much much closer.

Travel Better Tips

A few tips and suggestions to make the journey, the hike, or the return easier.

What To Pack & Wear

· Hiking boots are best for the full-day hike, but you could get away with decent sports trainers or good hiking sandals.

· Most hikes in June to September will be in hot weather, so shorts and t-shirt or vests are best.

· We didn’t take our travel hiking poles on this trek, but if you usually use them or have bad knees, then they will help on the descents which can be slippy in parts and taxing on the knees.

· Suncream, sunglasses, and a hat.

· Bring plenty cash for snacks, drinks, one or two taxi rides, food in the evening, and emergencies - there is no ATM in Valbonë or Theth with limited card payment options, so take more than you think!

· If you are doing the hike both ways in two days, then you should wear your clean ‘day two’ hiking t-shirt and socks on the evening of ‘day one’; you will be absolutely filthy, and it’s only respectful in these little guesthouse to shower and change as soon as you can.

· We also brought light trousers to change into and sleep in, as well as light jumper but actually never needed it in the early morning or evenings.

· If you’re doing the circular option A or B from Shköder or Tirana, but staying longer in Valbonë or Theth, remember that you’ll have to fit and carry everything over with you on the full-day hike. Therefore, take only what you’ll need and leave other stuff back at the accommodation in Shköder!

Water & Food

· There are two pleasant little cafes on the trail. The first is Cafe Rrgalla on the way up from Theth, selling drinks and some traditional savoury and sweet foods. The other is called Simon Cafe on the way up from Valbonë, with good strong coffee, lots of river ice-cold drinks, and a toilet for customers.

Whether you visit one or both on your way up and down is up to you, but we’d suggest Simoni Cafe is the one to prioritise time at for a coffee in the morning or a beer break on the way down from the peak.

Both cafes are cash-only.

· You should bring a few snacks with you, as well as a packed lunch. Those of you doing the full-day hike or ‘both ways in two days’ should bring extra snacks as well, and it’s not a bad idea to stock up on these items down in Shkodër where they’re cheaper and there’s more available than the one or two mini-markets up in Theth (and nothing much in Valbonë)

· We suggest 2 or 3 litres of water per person a minimum for the full-day hike. We trekked with our fantastic travel filter water bottles, and there is a fill-up spot from a tap-pipe about 4km in from Theth (by the guy selling drinks at the benches), and then an ice-cold river stream just a few minutes before Cafe Rrgalla and then the stream at Simon Cafe. However, you should also bring a 1 litre bottle of shop-bought water with you to ensure adequate hydration.

Maps, Apps & Signposts

· The trail is well signposted at the start and end with the big yellow and red pointers, though the timings should only be used as an indicator (as we found them to be sometimes wildly inaccurate).

· There are few red and white waymarkers along the trail, but not many and no distance indicators. However, once you’re on the trail proper it’s really quite easy to follow.

· The only point of confusion was on the way down from the peak to Valbonë where our AllTrails said to go left, but other signs suggested to go right to Restaurant Emilia. Another group were using Maps.Me and actually split in two at the juncture (with hilarious levels of passive aggressiveness!). Don’t worry however as both trails meet up after a short distance.

· It is sensible to have a map or the route downloaded on your phone - you can find the AllTrails listing here and the Maps.me one here.

· Starting early is always better than starting too late. Also, we recommend having travel insurance for this hike, as well as for your adventure in Albania or the Balkans - we’re insured with TrueTraveller.

Accommodation

· In both Theth and Valbonë, some guesthouses, campsites and hotels are quite a bit further away from the start + end points than you may expect, so bear this in mind for the place you book for the evening of your full-hike.

· As mentioned, in Valbonë, some may wish to get accommodation closer to trailhead if you absolutely don’t want to pay for a taxi. Hotel Krojet e Rrogamit and Fusha e Gjes Hotel are highly-rated, but we really did love our evening and morning at the further away Guesthouse Mehmeti.

· In Theth, be aware of hostels or campsites or guesthouses that are on the opposite side of river as they can add a CONSIDERABLE amount of time to your day and end of hike. On our way back to Shkodër we gave two Spanish girls a lift who we had passed much earlier on the trail - they were staying at a hostel there but didn’t realise that it was a decent walk in the peak sun from the end of the trail and Theth.

Popular places to stay in Theth include houses are Molla Guest House and Guesthouse Marashi. We stayed at Bujtina Miqesia - the hosts, setting and breakfast are excellent, but we’d only recommend staying in one of the rooms at the back of the property (these will be the more expensive options) or you may end up with quite an obstructed view.

· In Valbonë, your evening meal and breakfast is likely going to be at your accommodation, whilst Theth has a few restaurants of varying quality and price.

· From experience, we highly recommend double checking that you haven’t kept your room key before you arrive at Simoni Cafe and have to send it back down with a friendly old man.

· Given it’s going to be bastarding hot in Albania in June-September, and this is a long-ish hiking day, we highly recommend starting early in the cooler temperatures. You may be a little limited though by the earliest time your guesthouse serves up breakfast, which is actually an experience and setting not to be missed!

The Circular Road Trip Conundrum

If you have persevered this long, then thank you for sticking with us.

There is no reward at the end, but we will save you a few hours of additional research.

We highly recommend doing a road trip in Albania, especially if you’re going from the northern mountains down to the coast; there is some spectacular driving and scenery to be had, but certain aspects are not for the faint-hearted or inexperienced driver.

We’ve shared everything you need to know in this post: The Essential Guide To Driving In Albania

The stickler is the Accursed Mountains, and that fact that there is no way to do a convenient circular route involving Shkodër - Theth - Valbonë - Komani if you have a rental car / camper van: no road that exists between them and there’s a lake in the way.

Dedicating five or six days of our itinerary to making it work did not appeal, so we decided to sacrifice Komani Lake.

We were relieved that two couples we met on the trail (including two followers of Along Dusty Roads on Instagram!) had also decided that the best option was to hike both ways in two days because of their vehicle situation. However, we know that that amount of hiking will not appeal to every road tripper, and not every road tripper will be able to safely hike that amount in two days.

After all that research and our own experience of hiking the Valbona Pass both ways, these are your road trip options:

Do what we did. Drive from Shköder to Theth, stay over night, leave your car with your accommodation, hike to Valbonë and stay overnight, then hike back to Theth and drive back to Shkodër. You could also add in more nights in either Theth or Valbonë if you want more time and to spread out the hikes.
Drive to Theth, then hike to the peak and back down. You can do this with one night’s accommodation, or chose to stay longer in Theth to do other activities. This means you could also visit Lake Komani as a standalone day trip from Shköder.
This is the option we were close to doing, before we decided to sacrifice our bodies in search of answers for you!
Drive from Shköder to Komani, take the ferry to Fierze, then drive to Valbonë. Spend the night in Valbonë, hike to Theth, one night in Theth, then hike back to Valbonë.
This is the option several of our followers did, and it would be good for those on longer, slower trips. You should book your ferry as far in advance as possible though.
There is also the potential to leave your car parked in Komani, and continue on as a foot passenger.
Drive to Theth, spend the night and leave the car there, hike to Valbonë and spend the night there, continue on to Fierze and the ferry across Lake Komani, take the bus to Shköder and spend the night there, take the bus to Theth and pick up there.
We thought about this option, but decided it was even stupider than doing the hike twice!

There are likely a few variants we’ve missed out on there, but the dilemmas will remain the same.

If you hit upon a solution or a sensible alternative, then please do let us know in the comments! Lots of travellers like you would love to learn from your own experience and route, and it helps us keep the post updated.

Of course, you could also opt to just forget about renting the car until you’re done with northern Albania, but that would reduce your experiences in and around Shköder and mean you miss the spectacular driving in + out of the mountains on the way to Theth.

Travel Tip // The drive from Shkodër to Theth is only 80km, but can take up to three hours or more due to the type of roads.

It’s easy from Shkodër to the right turn off the roundabout, but the road then narrows to a single track with little to no proper passing places until the wonderfully named little village of Bogë (maps). There is some give on the side in parts, but it is sometimes a game of chicken between drivers, as one person or both has to pull into the side to get by.

This stretch of road also has a few crazy local drivers in Mercs and Audis who will be right up your arse until they can get past; when it’s safe to do so, sometimes the best option is to pull in and let them go by.

Also, watch out for sheep and goats.

Not long after Bogë, you’ll start the winding ascent with switchbacks and blind corners. It’s a very narrow road, and you do have to keep your wits about you, especially if there’s a tight squeeze with a bus or lorry coming down from the opposite direction.

A powerful 4x4 is better for the steep sections, but the narrow parts will feel easier in a smaller vehicle, especially if you’re a nervous or inexperienced driver. Thankfully, the road to Theth was recently improved and is a now much smoother easier ride for non 4x4s.

Note the last proper shop on the way to Theth is Sibora SuperMarket (maps), not long after the roundabout turnoff and before the prison(!), whilst there’s an agritourism restaurant which caught our eye that we didn’t have time to stop by - Agroturizem Kantina Kopliku (maps)

Bogë also has several hikes and guesthouses if you want a pitstop - check them out here.