A small island with a big reputation, our guide covers all the best things to do in Utila Honduras before, after, and beyond diving - with personal recommendations on the best places to eat and drink, where to stay, and nightlife!
Most travellers know Utila as the cheapest place in the world to get your PADI Open Water certification. Yet whilst that’s certainly true, fewer travellers know that amongst experienced divers, this little Caribbean island is firmly established as a world-class dive destination due to the diversity, quantity, and quality of its dive sites.
There’s literally no place better for you to learn.
Yet, it was the other side of Utila's reputation which kept us away on our first trip to Central America. Tales of drunk backpackers who never leave, non-stop parties, wanton drug consumption, bubbles of privilege in paradise, and a general environment which makes one wonder how the 5,000 or so locals could really put up with it all.
Though the above description may be a pull factor for some reading this, we've travelled enough to know it can be the death knell for a place and a community.
And yet, the fates in 2022 were calling us across the water to Utila.
What we discovered was an island full of liars, where even the honest man leaves having uttered an untruth.
“I’m not drinking today.
I love you.
I’m leaving tomorrow.”
These are the three lies of Utila, and during our two joy-filled weeks spent becoming Advanced Open Water divers, we would each tell two.
But how we felt on the island joined up by dusty roads and covered in green wasn't just because it's a haven for laid-back travellers, because we got to snorkel with dolphins and scuba beside a turtle, or because it's a bloody Caribbean Island holiday experience which doesn't cost the earth, and somewhere you can dive by day and hang out in dive bars by night.
Our experience was as much about Carlotha, who handrolls cigarettes for her customers and makes a mean ceviche, the old boys who drink to cowboy songs of the 70s & 80s about broken hearts and lonesome lovers, finding the best baleadas at a place where Sundays are on Saturdays, Captain Hoover's trash-talk and excitement, soul food plates at RJ's packed-out twice-weekly grill, the pool table rules that only the locals and a Swedish man who looks like Phil Collins understand, jumping into the crystal-clear saltwater to end each day, Mario cracking jokes as he hacks away at his gigantic coconuts, the day the avocadoes arrived, Transito's sombrero and infinite smile, the blue eyes of a shaggy-haired shirtless Norwegian who came for three days and stayed for three years, karaoke with Monica and JJ's gang, the fish restaurant by the sea that didn't have fish for a week, the man-mountain who makes fresh pasta and loves his cats, starting and ending each day with a jump in the saltwater.
We really loved Utila.
And that's no lie.
Perhaps our blissful experience was helped by the pandemic allowing an island that depends on tourism to recalibrate its core and community; to take back a little of its spaces and sense of self. Maybe it will go back to being overrun or less idyllic when tourism levels return to what they once were.
But, for now, we'll give the benefit of the doubt to the little English-speaking Honduran island where travellers come to breathe under the sea, drink in the sunshine, and think of what lie they'll tell that evening.
In this post, we've shared all the best things to do in Utila before, after, and beyond diving - with our personal picks of the best places to eat and drink, where to stay, nightlife, and how to spend your time on those rest days on dry land.
These are 13 wonderful things to do in Utila - we hope you enjoy it half has much as we did.
13 Wonderful Things to Do in Utila
Learn To Dive
Whether you’re learning to dive, continuing your PADI career development, or a qualified diver just keen to join a few fun dives on the second largest barrier reef in the world, this is the main reason to come to Utila.
It's still the cheapest place in the world to learn, with PADI Open Water courses costing $225-$350 USD depending on the dive school; it’s also the cheapest place in the world for those looking to become dive masters or dive instructors.
With a dozen or so dive shops (including two freedive schools), various fun or specialist dive packages available, and the significantly lowers costs to enjoy yourself here in comparison to other diving destinations in Central America and the Caribbean, it’s also great value for experienced divers as well.
Cheap doesn’t always mean low quality though, and it’s really important to appreciate that Utila is highly sought-after and respected amongst divers due its location on the Mesoamerican Barrier Reef, 80+ dive sites, fantastic visibility and climate, and the standard of dive schools and training available.
We genuinely think we’ve set the bar incredibly high by starting our scuba diving journey here and learning at Underwater Vision.
For experienced divers, or those looking to visit on a shorter diving vaction, Utila is a place you'll love beyond its affordability, with the rhythm of the whole island really centred around its diving credentials. Its status as one of few places in the world with potential for year-round whale shark sightings is a big draw, but long-time divers we spoke to across Central America as well as a number of our Instagram followers all waxed lyrical about how the island was amongst their favourite places in the world to explore underwater.
We've done a deep-dive (sorry) into everything you need to know about learning to dive, the diving experience on the island, and the best time for whale sharks in this post: Why You Should Go Diving in Utila.
Visit Water Cay
It's a running joke for us at Team ADR that whenever we make the effort to get to a remote island, we soon hear from a local that the place you actually can’t miss is the smaller, more difficult to access neighbouring island.
This 'Matryoshka dolls' logic is the same whether it's Colombia, Cambodia, or Scotland - and it applies here in Honduras too.
Budget, time or inclination sometimes means being unable (or unwilling) to make this extra effort; the tiny little island of Water Cay however was worthy of expending all three.
Picture in your head, if you will, an uninhabited tropical desert island. Got it? Well, what you’re imagining is probably very close to the reality of Water Cay.
Palms heavy with coconuts young and old, and a beach of fine white sand. Shallow waters of kaleidoscopic blues and a small reef housing rainbow coloured fish.
Little more than a speck on the map, it takes less than ten minutes to slowly walk its perimeter and less than one to cross over - but you’re not here to roam. You’re here to swim, to snorkel, to lay beneath the shadow of a gently moving tree, to drink cold beers from a cooler of melting ice and enjoy - if only for a while - what feels like your very own slice of paradise.
Water way to spend a day (apologies, only Alan Partridge fans will get this reference)
Location | Water Cay is located here, just off of the south west coast of Utila.
How to Get There | The only way to access Water Cay (assuming you don’t have your own sailboat!) is with one of several companies who arrange daily boat trips and private charters.
We went with Bush's Bay Island Charter (find them here on Utila’s main street, just to the left hand side of Bush's Supermarket) and can happily recommend them.
Each afternoon they place a whiteboard outside the office with the next day’s boat trip times; the departure time is different every single day, and is usually determined by the first person or group to book - the advertised time outside is then to fill that boat. If it’s a week day, expect a single departure which will then return back to Utila four hours later, but there may be as many six different departure times on a weekend - and therefore six different boat trips - each day. For this reason, we’d highly recommend visiting Water Cay during the week when smaller numbers means a much more chilled atmosphere.
The journey time is between 20 and 30 minutes.
Cost | The return boat trip costs $20 USD per person which includes a free cooler for chilled beers & drinks, but snorkel rental is in addition.
It’s possible to charter an entire boat for $120 USD.
Facilities | There is a warden and two toilets on the island, but no other facilities or amenities so you need to bring your own ice, drinks, food, and anything else you need for a beach day.
Additional Info | There’s usually the option to leave Water Cay early to allow for a lunch on the neighbouring fisherman’s island; the majority of our group chose to do this, and we simply picked them up on the way back to Utila (we preferred to to eat our snacks and have the extra time on the island rather than go to a restaurant).
p.s. we've got dibs on the dreamhouse you can see from Water Cay, situated on a tiny island all of its own.
Rent An ATV
At just 11 kilometres long and 4 kilometres at the widest point, Utila is a positively tiny island. And with the likelihood that you’ll be staying in accommodation on and around the busier Main Street, most days you’ll simply get around on-foot or hail the odd tuk-tuk.
If wanting to explore the island properly or hit up several of our suggestions on the best things to do in Utila, then renting your own vehicle for at least a day is highly recommended.
Speaking with those that have called Utila home for many years, in the past the vehicle of choice was the push-bike. Yet whilst it’s still easy enough to find a bicycle rental company on the island, ATVs, motorbikes and golf carts are now a much more common sight (cars on the other hand are spotted less frequently here than whale sharks).
Roads between destinations on the south coast (Chepe’s Beach, Bando’s Beach, the dock for Neptune’s Bay) are in pretty decent condition, but if you’re keen to head north to the likes of Pumpkin Bay, or explore the island’s obscure network of dusty tracks and bumpy, uneven trails, it’s an ATV you should be hiring - especially if there’s been recent rain making some access roads inaccessible to golf carts and tricky for those not accustomed to riding a motorcycle.
Plus, speeding along dusty trails on an ATV is so much fun - and pretty much an activity in and of itself!
Where to Rent | There are a few rental companies operating on the island, but Roneey Rentals is the most convenient option. They've got two offices at either end of Main Street, but this one which is closest to several popular dive schools, is likely the most convenient.
They have a really good cache of vehicles, not all of which are at the actual rental shop. So, if you walk past and it looks empty, be sure to check as they’ll likely have motorbikes, ATVs and golf carts parked elsewhere.
Cost | ATVs cost $45 per half day (for example, 8am to 6pm), $60 for a full 24 hour period, or $350 for the week. For longer rentals, you would likely be able to negotiate the day rate even lower.
There is no deposit required, but you will be expected to leave your driving licence.
Further information | Be sure to drive your ATV responsibly and at low speeds (under 20 km/h) in and around the town - nobody likes a dickhead and it’s a congested narrow road with lots of pedestrians.
See our post on ‘17 Useful Things to Know Before Visiting Utila’ for further information on renting different vehicles including short and long term rental rates, as well as alternative rental companies.
Take in The View from Pumpkin Hill
It doesn't look like a pumpkin, and it is only a very, very little hill, but an easy amble to the top and a squeeze into and up the abandoned observation tower leads to what is undeniably the very best view in Utila.
At the wind-battered top of the red and white tower, vultures will glide and swoop at your eye-level, and the panoramic vista allows you to fully appreciate how verdant, undeveloped, and uninhabited the island remains. No high rise hotels, commercial resorts, or cruise ships to be seen, with much that unfolds before you protected nature reserve or pockets of mangroves and lagoons.
As with most viewpoints around the world, this is one best taken in during the golden hour, so try to begin your walk up no more than an hour before sunset.
Looking for something to do before your little jaunt up a hill? Hang out at the pretty little Pumpkin Hill Cove. More appealing than the eponymous neighbouring beach, this small cresent of golden sand remains quiet even during the weekend and offers the perfect spot to top up your tan.
Alternatively, pop into the northern institution that is Rockies (maps) for cold beers, decent cocktails and apparently some of the best wifi on the island!
Note that sea turtles nest on the beach from June to October, so please visit responsibly if passing by.
Location | Pumpkin Hill is located on the northeast of the island, here on Google Maps.
How to Get There | Unless you fancy walking the eight kilometres there and back (perfectly possible, just don't set off in the peak afternoon heat), you'll need your own wheels or a tuk-tuk to reach Pumpkin Hill from town.
There are few different trail options for the walk up and down the highest peak on the island. After parking up outside Rockies, we followed the unpaved road just to the right. This soon turns into a clear steep trail but becomes very overgrown towards the top until you reach the main pathway.
To return we instead followed what is the official trail, accessed from Pumpkin Hill Road (here). The trail is not on visible on Google Maps, but is on maps.me, an alternative app which is particular useful for hiking trails around the world.
The walk up shouldn't take any more than 15 minutes, and you'll be fine with trainers or sandals on dry days; wherever you emerge on the way down, you'll be no more than 10 minutes walk back to Rockies.
Parking | There is designated free parking by Pumpkin Hill Cove, Pumpkin Hill Beach and Rockies.
Ceviche & Chill on Chepes Beach
A common misconception is that Utila’s designation as a Caribbean island means that, like Antigua, it must have innumerable stretches of white sand.
The reality is that it has less than a handful, and those are all quite small or closed off to the public. Whilst you can absolutely have a lovely beach day in Utila, this isn't a beach holiday destination (ironically, this is one of the several natural factors which maintains the low-key traveller vibe and prevents large-scale commercial tourism ruining it all).
One of our favourite spots for a chilled few hours or a day off the diving was Chepes Beach. Small but definitely sandy, it offers shaded tables permanently planted in the clear, blue shallow water, and enough space to lay your towel down at any time of day.
Weekends will always be more crowded though with locals and tourists.
For nearby food and drinks, be sure to visit Carlotha's great little restaurant, where you can buy cold bottles of beer for the beach, enjoy lunch in the shade with a country music soundtrack (her ceviche is tiptop, as is her playlist), and use the bathroom. A long-timer on the island told us this used to be a wee hours late night spot, but that doesn't seem to be the case anymore.
Alternatively, on the left hand side of Chepes, The Beach House was a surprisingly excellent choice for lunch, with unexpected foodie flourishes to traditional dishes making it somewhere we highly recommend checking out whether you're going to the beach or not.
The Essentials | You can find Chepes Beach on the west side of the town (maps). It’s a 15-minute walk from the ferry dock or 20L per person for a tuk-tuk ride. There's plenty space to park by the road if arriving with your own wheels.
Eat Your Bodyweight in Baleadas
Travelling long-term in Central America, many backpackers inevitably become a little frustrated with the lack of variety across the region's plate. Indeed, until you get used to loving the distinct flavour of corn tortillas (this happens) and realising that hot sauce holds the key to everything, it can all become a bit dull quite quickly.
Enter the baleada, a Honduran street food staple.
An XL flour tortilla (usually hot, fresh and handmade) that comes folded and filled with mashed refried frijoles and crumbled salted white cheese as standard, which you can then fill up with a combination of eggs, tomatoes, avocado, or meat. They cost around 20L for the basic baleada sencilla, 25-30L for a filling or two, and up to 35-60L for the 'super baleadas' which are stuffed several things. Very veggie-friendly too!
When you need to grab a quick breakfast before your diving classroom session, something to feed the hangover, a budget lunch or dinner, or a quick snack out and about, the baleada will be your bestie.
We tried lots in the town, and some places deliver a more satisfyingly stuffed balaeada than others, with the fresh handmade flour tortillas being a key part of our satisfaction (it's more like a crepe than the packaged type you get in supermarkets). The best one we had was at the unassuming Popeye's Alley (maps), which looks like just a fried chicken place but is actually a family-run restaurant serving out of their kitchen at the back - their super baleada vegeteriana was brilliant.
La Casita could be a little hit and miss, and the waiting times were often super long. Don't go for their veggie option but the egg and avocado was top notch. Rosy's 1 + 2 next door is really popular, and a very solid choice. Jessica’s stall in the narrow, less-visited streets where the locals live, was a lovely find one evening but we can't remember where it was exactly, so it's more of a serendipitous reward for those who go for a wander!
All of this is is of course subjective, so feel free to add your own personal favourite baleada recommendation in the comments!
We’ve shared more recommendations on where to eat in Utila later in this post.
enjoy A Bando Beach Day
Over the bridge and at the far end of Main Street, Bando's beach is the bookend to Chepes on the other side of town. A semi-private beach, it offers the opportunity for more of a full-on 'relax, read a book, sunbathe, eat, drink, and do nothing' sort of day.
There's an entrance fee of $3 per person, which gives you use of all the deckchairs and facilities. The on-site restaurant and bar has an alright menu of paninis, burgers, and bites (100-200L price range), with bar service to the beach too.
Given the shallow nature of the water and the sea grass, this isn’t a great spot for snorkelling - but perfect for a cooling dip in the Caribbean!
Do note that this place gets super, quite unpleasantly busy on the weekends, so try to time your visit to avoid this.
Location | Bando beach is located at the tip of The Point, at the most easterly end of Main Street. Find it here on Google Maps.
How to Get There | You can walk to Bando Beach in under 10 minutes from several dive shops in town, and around 15 minutes from the ferry dock.
If you arrive by ATV/motorbike/golfcart, there’s a large parking area which is free of charge for guests.
Opening Times | It's closed Monday to Wednesday, but you can still enter and use the beach area (usually without a charge). Official late-night beach parties / events held are sometimes held on the weekends.
Cost | Entrance fee is $3 USD per person
Indulge At The Utila Chocolate Co.
They probably get tired of everyone saying the exact same thing when they step through the door, but daaaaamn it smells good in here.
Follow the plethora of red and white hand-painted wooden signs dotted over town, and you'll end up at this charming clubhouse between the trees. A cute little cafe of swings and wooden chairs, they serve up a decadent menu of homemade ice cream, brownies, and milkshakes.
Their range of 100% Honduran chocolate is also made here, and you can have a short tour and tasting with one of the friendly girls for free, provided you purchase something at the cafe.
There are around twelve different types from white to milk to 80% cacao, each with quirky names inspired by the island like 'Nutty Gecko', 'Wish Willy White', and 'Tuk Tuk Nib Nib', so chocolate lovers will find one that they absolutely adore (though the jury's still out for us on the lemongrass one).
Location | The Utila Chocolate Co. is situated about a 25-minute walk from the town centre, here on Google Maps.
How to Get There | Given its location, if visiting on the day you rent a motorbike/ATV, it's a good idea to stop here on your way to or from Pumpkin Hill.
Opening Times | Open 10am - 4pm during the week, and 11am-3pm on Saturdays (closed Thursdays and Sundays).
Buy | The handcrafted, small batch bars, which you can also pick up at supermarkets on the island, are pretty expensive but we definitely recommend stopping by here at least once! They also sell a variety of natural remedies, ingredients, and skin products.
escape to Neptunes
Only accesible via a free boat shuttle, this is probably the best place to go on the island if you want to feel on full holiday mode for the day and not go anywhere near a wetsuit.
A privately-owned beach club, it's got a bar/restaurant with reasonably priced food, beach chairs and tables, paddle boards for rent, good swimming, reef snorkelling, and a ridiclously long pier from which you can jump into the perfect Caribbean water.
Entry is free on the proviso that you'll eat and drink at the restaurant.
To reach Neptunes, take a tuk-tuk to the Coral View area and the dock on the lagoon here (maps) - every tuk-tuk driver will know where to take you, and we paid 80L. It’s a wee bit of a walk from the centre of town, so don’t underestimate the time/distaince.
The free shuttle boat is laid on by Neptunes, but the organisation is definitely lacking a little. It leaves every hour from 10am to 5pm (or more like ten past the hour in reality), but you should arrive ahead of time as there's only capacity for about 18 cramped passengers. There isn't a ticketing or reservation system, with access on a first-come-first-served basis. We therefore recommend you make your way to the wooden jetty to queue up as soon as you arrive if there's a crowd.
If the boat is full, then it's an hour's wait until the next one (unless a friendly local offers a ride), and there's no amenities by this dock, save for a covered wooden bench for shade.
Neptunes is really popular, and unfortunately on the day we tried to visit (a Saturday), we were forced to abandon the plan after the boat left empty twice over two hours because Neptunes was still at its capacity of about 120+ visitors that day. It was our fault for not showing up earlier, so learn from our mistake, and try to visit during the week when there will be far fewer over from the mainland.
Boat rides back are also free, and there will usually be a tuk-tuk or two waiting for fares.
Note that Neptunes is not currently open on Mondays or Tuesdays.
Tequila Tuesdays
One dollar, one glass, one hour, and as much as bad tequila as you want from the surly to smiling bar staff.
Even if you're too old for that sort of thing (we certainly are), it would be rude to miss out on such an institution of the Utila travel experience.
Nightlife on the island follows a weekly rinse-and-repeat rhythm of fancy-dress dive master graduations, quiet nights around the pool table, toasting the end of your course, drinking challenges, and alliterative theme nights when everyone from the various dive schools congregates in one cramped bar. The unwritten timetable, theme nights, and the fact you bump into all the same people thoughout your stay very much adds to the type of fresher's week atmosphere and camaraderie on the island (which we actually enjoyed).
Tequila Tuesday at Tranquila (maps) is one of the biggest 'out out' nights of the week, lasting until the wee small hours and seeing lots of fresh-faced travellers with zero idea about pacing as well as Quebecois who can put away tequila likes its tap water (seriously though, look after yourself and your mates). The power hour is from 8-9pm, and after that it just becomes a busy bar and dance floor; the music is pretty terrible throughout, but you can have a really fun night if you're in the mood and the deck at the back is great for breather. We had a more enjoyable night than expected.
In terms of other places to go for a drink at night in town, Skid Row, Treetanic (with its art installations inside), and La Cueva are all reliably grungy and can go from somewhere quiet to have a chilled out couple during the week, to a spontaneous night of dancing and singing.
Our personal favourite place to drink though was Seabreakers (maps), run by a one-of-a-kind Italian man who makes fresh pasta by the pool table, has fantastic taste in music, two scratch-happy cats who run the place, and a cool shack set-up opening out onto the water. Sometimes it's a chilled-out vibe, sometimes it's pretty busy and becomes a bit of a party.
Underwater Vision, the dive school we stayed at and dived with, have a really popular karaoke night which is definitely worth heading along to on a Wednesday.
Most bars cut the music and close up at 10pm sharp during the week to respect a local curfew, with only the specific late-night hangouts going on longer. Tranquila is sort of the late night venue though if cutting loose.
Get Stuck Here
We planned to be here for a week, and extended our stay on three separate occasions through choice rather than necessity.
And even then it was still a wrench to finally pack up and leave for the morning ferry to La Ceiba.
For many of your reading this, Utila's atmosphere, climate and beauty will get under your skin. You may fall for diving or for someone. You might love the holiday island mood if you've been backpacking long-term or the lifestyle here may just be what you've been searching for.
One of the best things to do in Utila is, however, to ultimately 'lean in' and embrace the feeling of never wanting to leave.
Or maybe thinking about going the day after tomorrow.
Travel isn't always about moving on; it can also be about finding the places and moments to stick around for longer.
Support Wildlife & Ecosystem Conservation
Whether you’re here for a week or a while though, there are several worthwhile places to volunteer, support, or intern on the island. For some, it may be the main reason they’re coming here, but we spoke to a bunch of travellers who planned to stay around longer due to the volunteer opportunities available. A few to check out further are:
Iguana Research & Breeding Station | Non-profit conservation work to "ensure the survival of the endangered swamper iguana”, which is native Utila and only found in its mangrove swamps. Free tour visits are possible 8am-5pm Monday to Friday, 8-12pm on Saturday, with donations welcomed. They also offer volunteer opportunities.
Kanahau Wildlife Conservation | A small non-profit network of environmentalists focused on biodiversity and wildlife research and conservation, with a particular focus on preserving the island’s ecosystems and endemic species in the face of habitat destruction caused by tourism growth / development. They are more focused on hosting researchers and students, but get in touch with them if you’d like to find out ways to support.
Jasper’s Animal Shelter | They provide love, shelter, and care for furry friends on the island, as well as trying to rehome them. They offer live-in volunteer roles at the shelter, but there is the potential to help them out with dog walks and donations.
Most of the dive schools are also committed to several conservation programmes and ocean clean-up efforts, whilst there’s also the Whale Share & Oceanic Research Centre for those interested in marine conservation and underwater research.
Bask in Those Utila Sunsets & Stars
Sunsets can be quite an overrated thing, and we usually wouldn’t include them in our guides unless there was once specific place or spot that you simply had to go to for it.
However, perhaps it was the happiness and fatigue and satisfaction we felt from a day of diving or driving along dusty roads here on this island, or just eating and drinking by the water, but a Utila sunset was always a moment to savour.
Each night, the watercolour sky was painted in different shades and streaks of purple, pink, and orange, slowly giving way to bright, unpolluted starlight. The water became a dark, velvety ripple.
We’d usually enjoy this from the deckchairs or pier at Underwater Vision with a cold beer or pineapple rum in our hand, or floating in the swimming pool ocean, but wherever you are on the western-facing parts of the island, make sure to take a moment to pause and appreciate how lucky you are to be somewhere like this.
Where To Stay in Utila
If you’re coming to Utila to learn to dive, the likelihood is that you will stay in a dorm provided by your dive school. Even after you complete your course, accommodation discounts for recent graduates mean you’ll unlikely to change rooms until you leave the island.
Couples who don’t want to stay in these basic shared dorms should however contact the dive school to arrange a private dorm or private room; this depends on the school and availability though, so may ultimately guide your decision on the dive centre with whom you’re going to learn.
We explain the details of this further in our Utila diving guide.
For various reasons associated with the above, divers arriving for a short holiday to Utila or non-divers on vacation may prefer to stay in one of the nicer hotels or growing number of Airbnbs on the island. There’s only one non-dive school hostel in town we’d recommend and, whilst Utila does not have large-scale hotels or resorts (thankfully), there are a handful of places suitable for that travel style.
We’ve put together this full guide on where to stay in Utila, with all our suggestions, so be sure to head over there for the lowdown!
Where To Eat in Utila & Coffee
We’re vegetarian but eat fish when in a place by the sea where the majority of fishing is done on a small-scale, sustainable, non-industrial way by local fishermen, which is the case here in Utila. You can even buy direct daily near the ferry dock or when some of them take their catch from restaurant to restaurant.
For non-pescatarians or vegans, you will find options on most menus but they may be uninspiring or require adaptation from the listed dish; we’ve listed a few below that are your best options though!
Budget travellers can eat pretty cheap in Utila as threre are no shortage of small hole in the wall places and local eats to be had across the town for under $3.
The link for each restaurant recommendation leads to their Google Maps listing/location.
Mango Tango | Monica’s place is often talked about as the best restaurant in Utila, and the reputation is absolutely deserved. Head here for something a little more interesting and foodie in a gorgeous seafront setting, or for the weekend brunch and cocktails! They also serve up lion fish, which is an invasive species that locals and divers are trying to cut down, so it’s a good, sustainable choice.
The Pelican | The Honduran-Swiss couple upstairs are doing great things in the kitchen at this relatively new addition to Utila. Hidden away in an intimate second-floor space, their pad thai was delicious and they also did something with shrimp and fried coconut which both halves of ADR still salivate over. It is on the pricier side for the island, but still somewhere we’d head back to in a heartbeat. For their daily specials (like the pad thai, which is only on a Tuesday), once it’s gone it’s gone, so turn up earlier.
Josie’s | A lovely, friendly family restaurant in the courtyard outside their house, it’s perfect for slow breakfast or brunch on a sunny day. Famous fritters, delicious hot hot HAWT homemade sauce, omelettes, sandwiches and avo toast, they also have fresh juices, smoothies, and power bowls. They are also the owners of one of the best dogs in the world, so that’s another reason to drop by - find it here.
Seabreakers | As well as being one of our favourite places to drink, Seabreakers is also one of our favourite places to eat in Utila! The gloriously Italian owner makes fresh pasta by the pool table each day in the most Italy-meets-Utila way possible, with the evening menu offering a vegetarian option and a meat one. Always simple, always delicious, always good value - and there’s even a happy hour deal where you get pasta and a beer for 180L! Just don’t tickle the cat’s feet.
RJ’s | Soul food for us implies a big, honest plate of generously portioned food in the sort of place you'd imagine Anthony Bourdain having visited; RJ’s definitely fits the bill. The local institution only opens for dinner two or three nights a week (Wednesday, Friday, and Saturtday from 5.30pm), and the handwritten whiteboard menu is basic at its best. Pick from several types of grilled fish, shrimp, chicken, pork, or steak, and it arrives with various sides including baked beans, mac n’ cheese, and garlic bread; individually, some of elements weren’t anything special, but collectively it put a big smile on our faces and filled our bellies up gooood. RJ’s is packed out whenever they’re open, so we recommend you arrive hungry and arrive early as once something’s gone that night, it’s gone. It’s also not a crazy idea to reserve a table. Cash only.
Carlotha’s | The cool local lady who makes a good fresh ceviche, sells her own killer hot sauce, and offers up a traditional menu and drinks by Chepes beach.
Beach House | We had ceviche and ‘the fish of the day’ here, and both were surprisingly excellent. We didn’t have low expectations, but rather they were a level above and so makes us think that might carry through for the rest of the menu. Friendly staff and a nice setting by the water and Chepes beach.
Camilla’s Bakery | For any baked goods, this the place to go! The Danish owner has lived here for a long time, and makes fresh loaves, baguettes, bagels, croissants to sell as well as for use in her cafe for breakfast and brunch. It’s open Tuesday to Sunday, 6am-2pm, with food served until 1 pm.
Munchies | This is a decent option for a breakfast/brunch of pancakes or something more filling, and they also serve up the standard gringo-friendly options like burgers and pasta.
Trudy’s | The restaurant / bar of Underwater Vision, the breakfast and lunch is hit-and-miss so only really recommended for a quick post-dive bite rather than going out of your way. However, they serve some of the best coffee on the island in the morning and in the evening it’s a really popular spot for certain theme food nights; BBQ chicken Tuesdays is packed out but we highly recommend their pan-Asian nights.
Utila Brewing Company | A good set-up here at Utila’s first ever micro-brewery. Founded by a British dive instructor, their range of homebrews is impressive, whilst they also have other beers and drinks available. The menu of burritos, nachos, and tacos is exactly what you’ll want to eat after a few pints (or the night after a few pints), with an excellent veggie/vegan range and recommendations on beer pairings being a nice touch. They do beer pong on Saturdays if that’s your thing, as well as tie-dye workshops out front. Their bathroom is also the best decorated on the island. Open Monday, Wednesday, Friday and Saturday from 4:20pm until curfew (pretty sure we know the reason for the tremendously specific opening time…)
La Casita | We ate at La Casita a bunch of times, and it’s a lovely set up, but the kitchen is small and wait times can border on the ridiculous sometimes. However, we’d still definitely recommend eating here at least once, with the veggie burger being a big hit after our dives (just don’t have the ‘baleada veggie’).
Mama Rosa’s #2 | Right next door to La Casita, this big no-frills restaurant serves up good baleadas with delicious fresh tortillas, pupusas, burgers and burritos. We ate lunch or dinner here a bunch, and it’s a good shout for a budget option, but wait times can be long when it’s busy in the evening (so much so, that if it’s full and it looks like lots of people haven’t eaten yet, you should go somewhere else).
Che Pancho is a good-looking Argentine-owned place that was recommend a lot to us, but we didn’t go as it’s not a very veggie-friendly menu, whilst we didn’t make it to the much-recommended El Castillo.
We’d generally recommend avoiding Buccaneers Bar and Grill as it is very overpriced relative to everything above. Emily in particular was very disappointed with her meal there; a sentiment that was shared when we mentioned their food to people who have called the island home for years.
Additionally, Mario’s Place - somewhere that feels like it should be an incredible local place - is also overpriced and tired.
Lastly, ReThink was a place that underwhelmed. We were excited to find a veggie/vegan place that was so popular and has all the right principles, but the service model is all wrong (as is charging 10% service up front when customers have to do most of the leg work), they’re understaffed, and the food disappointed. It’s a shame as the space and setting has lots of potential, so hopefully things will improve.
