Planning a trip to Scilla in the south of Italy? Our guide’s got you covered for this beautiful place of myths and legend by the Tyrennihan Sea.

Long ago in the violent, poisoned waters between Calabria and Sicily, a monster was born.

Standing twelve-feet tall with six heads - each with a neck composed of snakes and bearing a triple row of sharp shark's teeth - and packs of ferocious dogs emerging from her nether-regions, she ripped apart all that dared to fall within her reach.

The monster's name was Scylla, and since time immortal fishermen and sailors spoke of her power to devour and destroy. Both Ovid’s Metamorphosis and Homer’s Odyssey mention her, and the origin story goes that she was transformed from a beautiful woman due to the jealousy of a sorceress and her spurned love for a half-god.

Such tales were common in Greek mythology, but tales of monsters and men are particularly prevalent here in Italy's Straits of Messina. The reason appears to be the threats faced by fishermen and sailors in waters which could be tumultuous to traverse, and the 'monsters' were really the more palatable form to give to a craggy, treacherous shoreline where pirates and powers laid claim throughout the centuries.

Across the water lay the equally ferocious Charybdis, and the saying to be 'between a rock and a hard place' finds it origins in this part of Calabria: the older saying for a choice between two unpalatable alternatives is to be “between Scylla and Charybdis”.

Visiting Scilla, a place nestled between the sea and the mountains, such tales feel like a world away. The waters are calm to swim in, there's a sense of joy in the air, and the setting feels as idyllic as you can find in southern Italy.

As part of our two-week Calabria road trip, we had only planned to visit this little old fishing village famed for its swordfish sandwiches for a morning pitstop from Reggio Calabria: the first seductive glimpses of its beach backed by colourful houses and its picturesque homes spilling out on the water changed that to a full day exploring in the sunshine.

In this article, we've shared everything you need to know before arriving in one of the prettiest places you'll find in the lesser-visited southern Italian region. A place split in two by a castle, where the sea laps at the front door, and you’ll find bare-chested fishermen on the rocks with nets and rods, and recycled plastic buckets for their catch.

Whether it's a day trip, a road trip stop, or a holiday base for exploring elsewhere along the Calabrian coast, these are the best things to do in Scilla!

(By the way, it’s pronounced ‘sheee-la’)

scilla essentials

Layout / Three distinct sections
Eat / A swordfish sandwich at Civico5
Drink / A glass of local wine at Casa Vela
Wander / Amongst the narrow streets of Chianalea
Explore / The 15th century Castello Ruffo
Sun / Hang out along the colourful Spiaggia di Scilla
Stay / Our favourite Airbnb or Il Casato Deluxe Rooms

The Three Parts of Scilla

For such a small place, it seems a bit silly to include a section like this. But until we arrived, a few things we'd read about Scilla didn't make sense.

So, what you really need to know is that the town of Scilla is carved out into three distinct sections, with the Castello di Ruffo being the main reference point.

Atop the cliff, on the same level as the castle, you'll find San Giorgio - the modern town and hub for residents. It's got a bunch of accommodation options, small supermarkets, and everything else you'd expect in a small southern Italian town.

On the lower level, accessible by the signature winding Calabrian road, is Marina Grande. To the left of the castle, this has a few guesthouses and Airbnbs, a dozen or so cafes and restaurants, and the beach which brings lots of locals to Scilla on a weekend. On this side you'll find Scilla's little train station (Google Maps), the best beach-level parking, and a few accommodation options (but several of the streets are a little run down or abandoned).

To the right of the castle is the pretty, atmospheric fishing village of Chianalea. This is the area that Scilla's most famous for, and you can either access it by walking through the pedestrian tunnel from Marina Grande or walking down from San Giorgio. It's not accessible by car.

Linking Marina Grande and Chianalea is a small coastal tunnel which pedestrians and a limited number of local’s vehicles pass through. It leads to a small concrete port with a family-run food truck, lots of fishing boats, kids jumping from the rocks into the sea, and old boys playing cards in the late afternoon.

On a day trip, the main areas you need to linger on are Marina Grande and Chianalea, and it’s easiest to go between them via the tunnel, rather than walking up to San Giorgio and back down. For those with mobility issues, there’s a lift operating from Piazza San Rocco in San Giorgio for €1 per person, taking you between the clifftop and the sea levels.

At the end of this post we’ve shared lots of advice on where to park in Scilla (more important than it sounds), and the best places to stay.

our favourite Things To Do In Scilla, Calabria

Explore Chianalea

Travel in Italy for a little while, and you'll eventually discover what a borgo is.

Loosely translated as a 'village' or 'hamlet', they're always pretty, often rural, and sometimes struggling to survive. Tropea, the most popular tourist destination in Calabria, was awarded the coveted 'Il borgo più bello d'Italia' a few years ago - The Most Beautiful Borgo in Italy - but little Chianalea is the one that stole our hearts.

A long, narrow street, many of the homes have steps directly down to the sea or a boat harboured in their doorways. As you walk along, past seafood restaurants, wine bars, and slumbering cats, the water greets you between the gaps of buildings, and it doesn't take long to imagine how a simple yet divine life would have been lived here by a small community of fishermen and families. Italians sometimes refer to it as ‘little Venice’, and though the comparisons are off, in two weeks of road tripping around Calabria, this was the prettiest neighbourhood we saw.

Rather confusingly though, it's very much classed as a standalone village - hence its inclusion in the list of the beautiful borghi in Italy - as well as being very much part of the town of Scilla.

Confused? I know we were.

What's certainly clear though is that any day trip or stay in Scilla will be anchored around this charming, historic fishing village. Photogenic and atmospheric, if you can time it when the crowds of July and August aren’t there, you’ll want to linger for a little longer than you think.

And, if a handsome fashion designer pulls you into his studio for a makeover, you may have no choice in the matter…

Amongst the little gift shops, restaurants, and homes, a few personal recommendations are:

Casa Vela | A little win bar serving up Calabarian produce and small plates at affordable prices, including a specialty Calabria Slow Food Platter for €12. Prices are fair, and the outdoor tables are a nice spot to have a glass of wine or a coffee and watch the world pass by in the sunshine. Inside, you can also buy some of the produce to take home.

Apoi Spazio Creativo | Opposite Casa Vela, one of the many signs on the door says ‘open when is open’, but you’ll know pretty quickly if the inimitable Cesare Billi is in residence. Once a high-fashion designer, he now creates his own range and lives the good life here in Chinalea. After chatting to him at Casa Vela whilst he sipped on a glass of wine, we spent the next 45-minutes being charmed in his studio, and Andrew was sent out at one point (without much choice in the matter) so the olive-skinned, white-bearded lothario could give Emily a makeover. Andrew then ended up spending €80 on a handmade shirt, so this is a man who clearly knows how to persuade! A true one-off, a lot of the clothes he makes and designs are also on-of-a-kind, and fashionistas may spend much, much more than they intend.

Eating | Chinalea is home to the best places to grab the famous swordfish sandwiches - find out more in the next section! La Piccola Venezia is a popular option with a waterfront terrace,

Travel Tip // You'll see lots of little signs asking you to respect the homes and peace of local residents - please do so. Also, although you may see a few Italians doing it here, it's generally frowned upon (quite right) to wander around historical centres in beach/swimwear. If staying in Scilla, just bring something to wear over them on the walk to/from the beach.

Devour Swordfish Sandwiches

Scilla's proximity to the point where the Tyrrhenian Sea meets the Strait of Messina means that swordfish form a significant part of the town's culture, identity, and cuisine.

The massive fish are particularly abundant in the warm, nutrient-rich nearby waters, concentrated in the natural bottleneck as they migrate from the the Mediterranean to the Atlantic Ocean, and have been fished here for a long time.

With the traditional methods of a simple boat and a harpoon, the hunt and catch was viewed as a courageous duel between two worthy adversaries, akin to Hemingway’s Old Man and The Sea. A testament to this symbiotic history, and the noble associations and traditions associated with it, is the fact that there’s a statue up in San Giorgio (maps) of a naked man grappling with a swordfish.

Some traditional methods remain, and harpooning is still largely practiced, with small-scale fishing a big part of Scilla’s economy alongside tourism. Driftnetting and trawling is typically avoided, and the main catch season is May to September. You’ll see swordfish caught in Scilla sold all over the region!

Long-time readers of Along Dusty Roads will know that we’re vegetarian most of the time, but become pescatarians when we’re by the coast in a place where there’s still fishing done in a way that we can agree with - a rather fortunate philosophical stance when one visits Scilla.

Swordfish (pesce spada) is a staple here, and many Calabrians come to town simply to devour it: slapping a big slice of it in fresh ciabatta with a drizzle of olive oil, lemon, and seasoning (known as sarmoriglio) is the specialty, but it’s also deliciously served up in a variety of pasta dishes.

Seriously, I cannot tell you how hungry I am writing this and thinking back to the food we had.

Civico5 (maps) is the most popular place, and featured on any TV travel show which passes by Scilla. Founded by two brothers, their sandwiches (many named after Musketeers) go a little further than the traditional, with their signature blend of sarmoriglio, and the option to include Tropea onions, fried aubergine, chips, or homemade Bergamot mayonnaise. It is pricey though (€12-16 per sandwich) and the queues are long in summer. Unfortunately, they were too long for us with no tables left, so we decided to give nearby Malo 72 Chianalea a chance. The restaurant has a really nice floating terrace on the water with views on Chianalea, and offers several swordfish sandwiches. Emily opted for the paccheri pasta with swordfish and aubergine, and it was delicious too!

Another Calabrian specialty to keep an eye out for is pesce spada alla ghiotta, with thick hunks cooked up with tomatoes, olives, pine nuts, and capers.

On the second weekend of July, Scilla also hosts the "Festa della Madonna del Carmine”, where the main procession is led by a boat bearing a large swordfish. The tradition started in the 16th century to symbolise the town’s dependence on the fish and the sea, and its respect for both.

Did You Know? / There’s a lovely Greek myth that the Myrmidons, skilled warriors following Achilles, threw themselves into the sea after his death. Thetis, the mother of Achilles, took pity and transformed them into fish who would keep their swords. The reason there’s so many mentions of Greece when we’re talking about Italy? Calabria, as well as large parts of Sicily and Puglia, were all part of Magna Graecia (Greater Greece) for several centuries.

Tip / We recommend that, if in Scilla for a day, you try to have lunch, dinner, or just a drink on one of the floating terraces several restaurants have. As well as offering respite from the sun, they provide a picturesque setting and perspective on Chianalea. Note that most places close at 2.30/3pm before reopening for the evening service.

Also, most restaurants in Italy charge a coperto - read our explainer guide to avoid being one of the confused, angry tourists who think they’re being ripped off!

Hang Out on Scilla Beach

The main draw of Marina Grande area and ideal for a lazy summer day, the Spiaggia di Scilla (maps) is a very popular choice amongst Calabrians come the weekend.

Bookended by the region’s signature green hills and the imposing Ruffo Castle, and with a backdrop of colourful houses and shutters, the 700-metre long grey pebble beach may not match the white sand paradise beaches you'll find further north in Calabria but it's still got an awful lot going for it.

Paired with Chianalea, it makes Scilla an in-demand holiday town come summertime.

There are five or six private lidos, but plenty areas of free beach between and around them. Come summertime it's a bouquet of colourful parasols on nearly every patch of pebble, but you'll always find a spot to squeeze into. If the thought of the pebble puts you off, we'd strongly suggest packing your dookers anyway, as the shallow waters are awfully tempting when the heat gets a bit too much (and if you've read our 23 Things To Know Before You Visit Calabria, you've already invested in some colourful beach mats right!?)

Parallel to the beach, there are a dozen or so restaurants, cafes and bars to choose from along the redeveloped promenade, whilst in summer there are several set-up on the beach for something quick or to take back to your spot.

You can find Scilla beach here on Google Maps. Note that it’s sometimes referred to as spiaggia delle sirene (the beach of the mermaids / sirens).

Top Tip // For day trippers, we recommend a slow morning and lunch over on the other side of town and up at the the castle, and then a few hours at the beach when the crowds and afternoon heat hit their peak.

Plan // The 14 Best Beaches In Tropea + Italian Lidos Explained

Visit Castello Ruffo

Set upon the rocky promontory that separates Scilla's beach from Chinalea, the fortified castle overlooking the Tyrennihan was key to controlling (and defending) this part of Calabria and the Strait of Messina.

Named after the one-time feudal lords of Scilla who purchased it in the 15th century, Castello Ruffo di Calabria rises from the rock and offers a stoic medieval counterpoint to the splashes of colour and dolce vita on both sides. The Ruffo’s defended the coast from the notorious Ottoman pirate Barbarossa, and the castle was further fortified by the Austrians (who ruled a surprising amount of pre-Italy Italy in the 18th century) in their ultimately unsuccessful defence against the Spanish.

As a visitor experience though, Ruffo Castle is lacking a little. It offers stellar viewpoints, but the interior's dusty exhibits and museum lack care and curation. Large areas seemed to be used for storage or works. The traditional swordfish boat lacks explanation, and the history isn’t illuminated terribly well. The castle has excellent potential as a unique cultural or arts gallery in Calabria, but it'll take a while to get there.

Thankfully, the entry price reflects this, and we still suggest popping in to enjoy the best viewpoints on both sides, clamber about with the Game of Thrones theme song in your head, and give some context to how long this part of coast has been protected from upon high. On the clearest of days, you can see the Aeolian islands of Sicily across the water.

Incredibly, this was also used as a youth hostel not too long ago!

Where + When | Castello Ruffo is open every day from 9am-8pm in summer season (otherwise, 6pm), and entry is €2 (free for under 10s and over 70s). You can buy the ticket from the small office at the entrance (cash is best), which may be worth lingering in for a moment given that it's got fans. Find the castle here.

We were supplied a densely typed English information leaflet with our ticket - where we learned that the etymology of loophole is all to do with castles - but it was quite an impenetrable read.

You can access + exit the castle entrance from a few different points in Scilla. Walking up Via Chianalea, a steep sliver of a street (maps), takes your there from the old fishing village past several windows with the aroma of home-cooking but may be a little tiring. Alterantively, you can park up in the newer part of Scilla - anywhere in San Giorgio near Chiesa Maria Santissima Immacolata (maps) - and then it's a flat walk to it!

A Scilla Boat Trip OR DIVING

In Calabria, the Costa degli Dei deservedly takes all the plaudits - it is a ridiculously pretty section of coastline and paradise beaches.

Lesser known is the Costa Viola - the Purple or Violet Coast - which runs for 35 kms from the from the town of Palmi to the city of Reggio Calabria. Characterised by its rugged and jagged shoreline, Scilla is the most famous place on it, but there are also several secluded caves, coves, and beaches

We only discovered this on our own wanderings around Scilla, where you’ll find several signs up offering Costa Viola boat trips along the water to Cala Janculla, Grotta delle Rondini, Cala Leone, as well as viewpoints back on Scilla.

As we didn’t do one, we can’t give you a personal recommendation on whether this is worth it or not, but two tours we saw advertised departing from the Porto di Scilla (maps) - the area between Marina Grande and Chianalea - were:

· Seaside Scilla Tour | Three hour experience, with 45-minutes on a beach you can only access by boat. Maximum group size of 12 people. +39 339 308 8739 or email velascilla@yahoo.it

· The Costa Viola Catamaran with Pink Tour

If you do this and share more information to help other travellers like you, please let us know in the comments.

Diving is another activity to do in Scilla, with The Scilla Diving Centre offering a variety experiences at a variety of depths, including a wreck, caves, and the famous La Montagna. We learned to dive last year in Honduras (read about that here), but unfortunately didn’t blow any bubbles in Calabria!

Travel Tip // We stumbled upon Il Chiosco di Nonna Maria after lunch, and instantly had a tinge of regret. A simple family-run kiosk by the boats, from the menu, it sounds like the husband and wife team of Rocco Calore and Maria possibly even created the original version of the Scilla swordfish sandwich thirty years ago. Their spada panino is just €8, whilst the menu offers up lots of other snacks and sandwiches at very affordable prices, making it a good option for those on a budget or looking for something quick and easy.

They also have a touching, poetic tribute to Rocco, who passed away in 2021, which made us weep.

The Porto di Marina may not look like much by the way, but it’s often got fishermen tending their boats, old boys playing cards on plastic tables, young kids jumping off sharp rocks into the sea, and the little scenes of life which make travels in southern Italy so seductive.

Where To Stay in Scilla

We could happily have stayed in Scilla for two or three nights, and it makes a nice alternative to the more popular base of Tropea.

It does become very busy during the summer months, but many who visit do so on a day trip, meaning the crowds of July and August dissipate somewhat in the evening.

We’ve done the hard work for you, and chosen the best places to stay in Scilla - with something to suit every budget and travel style.

Hotels & Guest Houses

An important thing to note for those that would prefer a hotel or guest house is that the vast majority available in Scilla tend to be more dated and traditional than modern hotels you’ll find elsewhere in Italy. As a plus, even in high season, these accommodations are really good value.

Il Casato Deluxe Rooms | The most contemporary of Scilla’s hotel options, Il Casato Deluxe Rooms offers large modern rooms in the heart of Chianalea. We’d recommend paying a little extra for a room with a balcony right over the water. Find out more here.

Romeo e Giulietta Scilla | Located along a quiet street in Chianalea, sea-front and away from the crowds, this charming B&B is full of original features (like beams and stone walls), all rooms have balconies with sea view and, as a bonus, a small kitchenette. Find out more here.

Other little B&Bs located in the historic centre, right on the water include: Il sogno del pescatore, La Sciabica and B&B La Veduta.

Signora Tita B&B Chianalea | This recently renovated B&B is located higher up in the historic centre, providing excellent sea views from the balconies. The reviews are excellent! Find out more here.

B&B Mastro Francesco is also extremely highly rated, and very much enjoyed by previous guests.

Airbnb & Apartments

U Catoiu | This historic stone fisherman’s cottage is our Airbnb pick for Scilla - and once you see the photos you’ll understand why. Ideally sized for a couple, its crowning glory is the charming terrace over the water. Find out more here.

Sea Front Terrace | If you need a little more space, this three-bedroom, two-level house is located nearby. Full of traditional features and furniture, it also offers a waterfront terrace. Find out more here.

Appartamento nel cuore di Chianalea | Another great choice for a couple, especially if you prefer modern surroundings over the old. Great amenities, a great price and great reviews. Find out more here.

If you’re travelling with a group of large family and want a beachfront location, consider Apartment Mario Schifano, a modern, four-bedroom right on Spiaggia di Scilla.

How To Get To Scilla & Parking

By Train / Direct daily trains run from Reggio Calabria (30 minutes) and Tropea (75 minutes), arriving at Scilla’s train station by the Marina Grande (maps). From there you’re just 100 metres from the beach.

By Bus / As we mention in our article on the best beaches in Tropea, there is a decent enough public bus network in Calabria - the only issue is finding good information on it! There are scant resources online besides the quite indecipherable and impenetrable (for a non-Italian speaker at least) Ferrovie della Calabria website. We can’t see a bus for Scilla or San Giorgio there, but are convinced there must be one…

By Car / It’s a 30-minute drive from Reggio Calabria, and about 90 minutes south from Tropea.

For some reason, travelling from Reggio Calabria our GPS sent us in via the SS18 road, which narrows and curves to quite an intimidating degree before arriving in San Giorgio. From there, it’s a couple of hairpins on the steep drive down to the Marina Grande, with the final section of road wide enough for just a single vehicle.

I think this is because we put Chianalea in as our destination, rather than the parking lot, which was a mistake. The better, easier route would have been the coastal road and tunnel which takes you straight to Marina Grande from Reggio Calabria, via the train station, and avoids the nastier bends.

We’ve made it sound worse than it is, but just a heads up! The alternative route also brings you by a viewpoint on the side of the road which looks like it offers a stupendous view of Scilla (maps).

Parking in Scilla

The main challenge with arriving by car is the parking situation in Scilla. The easiest option is to park in and around the Marina Grande area, and then walking to/from Chianalea via the tunnel - this is what we did, and it was the most convenient option to depart once finished up at the beach.

Alternatively, if you’re not too bothered about the beach, you could park up in San Giorgio to walk down to Chianalea.

Remember, you cannot access the old fishing village by car as it’s a ZTL (and very very much not suited for any vehicles anyway), but you’ll find a few pop-up parking spots along the roadside and near the entrance, but these charge for the privilege and become oversubscribed quickly. As it’s Italy, you’ll also find lots of rogue roadside parking, but we don’t necessarily recommend that. Most importantly, if trying to park on the Chianalea side, you need to put in some specific GPS co-ordinates to access the right junction.

Here are our suggestions and recommend car parks, with Google Maps links, depending on where you wish to explore / enter. For any parking in Scilla, note that finding a space become more challenging the later you arrive, especially on weekends.

Area Parcheggio Ponte Livorno / A large car park in the Marina Grande area and just a one-minute walk from the beach. Currently free but may revert to charging in future. This is where we parked - find it here on Google Maps.

Alternatively, you can try to find a paid for blue line space right on Via Cristoforo Colombo (here on Google Maps, paid from 1st April to 31st October). I’m afraid we didn’t take a note of prices, so do share in the comments if you park there!

Piazza San Rocco / Up in San Giorgio, this Piazza has a quite a lot of free parking area in front of the church. Some brave souls may opt for the free roadside parking round the corner on the hill if it’s full, but we’ll leave it up to you. Find it here on Google Maps. There’s also free roadside parking along Via Manasi (maps).

From Piazza San Rocco, you can take the lift down for €1 per person.

Chianalea Parking / Follow the SS18 to this junction (maps), where there’s a blue sign ‘Chianalea 1’. You’ll see cars parked for free in a lay-by here, but if you take the road down you’ll quickly arrive at an old tunnel which acts a car park (not sure if it’s paid, legal, or not but there is a machine at the entrance!) and then emerge out onto a dozen or so designated blue line parking spots.

Not long after this, it’s the ZTL zone, so proceed with caution and pay attention!

There are several other pop-up private car parks along the SS18 which charge upward of €10 for the day. A better option may be Parcheggio Area di Sosta San Giuseppe (maps), which has positive reviews.

The above isn’t to put you off trying to park by Chianalea, but just letting you know that it’s more confusing, expensive, and challenging to access/exit that the others we suggested above. If your accommodation is there and you’re arriving with a rental car, we highly recommend asking them for a recommendation as they may have private parking for guest!

Porto di Scilla / You will also see cars parked here and it is accessible via the tunnel linking it and Marina Grande. However, we strongly recommend against venturing there with your vehicle though as we’re pretty certain it’s also ZTL area, and any parking isn’t for visitors - if we’re wrong though, let us know!

For nervous drivers, those looking to avoid the stress of finding a space in summer, or people with campers, a new alternative is the old football pitch that’s been transformed into a large car park (maps). It’s well outside the centre, but has a free shuttle bus every 20-30 minutes (8am-2pm) , taking you to/from Piazza San Rocco in San Giorgio.