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This trip to a wintry Ukraine (there’s no need for a ‘the’ prefix anymore) is the deepest we’ve travelled into Eastern Europe, a part of the world which has witnessed such tumult and transformation in the decades following the denouement of the Cold War. As fans of all things Le Carré, the freezing temperatures feel somewhat appropriate for our journey east; shorts and sunshine aren’t things we’ve come to readily associate with post-Soviet hinterlands. ”