An Essential Guide to Riomaggiore | The Perfect Cinque Terre Base

Part of our series of curated guides to all five of the Cinque Terre villages, this post has everything you need to know to plan the perfect visit to Riomaggiore.

Including all the very best things to do in Riomaggiore, plus where to stay, eat and sunbathe!

Updated November 2023

 
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Pastel hued buildings tumbling from impossible heights, rugged vineyards, aquamarine waters and warm rocks shaped perfectly to hug the sun-weary bodies by the shore; Riomaggiore is a true Italian dream.

It’s also one of two bases we chose for our week long visit to the Cinque Terre, and it proved an ideal location, offering us great accommodation options, a handful of fantastic places to eat, and probably our favourite sunset spot in the entire region. We also felt that Riomaggiore also had a slightly more youthful energy to it, perfectly suited for travellers or couples looking for a little more atmosphere in the evening.

In this guide we’ve covered the very best things to do in Riomaggiore, as well as our choices for where to eat and drink, shared a selection of accommodation recommendations and a handful of personally curated tips so that you can make the very most of your time in one of the Cinque Terre’s most popular spots - whether you choose to stay for a week or only visit for the day.

This is our guide to Riomaggiore, Cinque Terre.

riomaggiore essentials

Home / Ideal base for your Cinque Terre explorations

View / Spectacular sunset harbour location

Location / Village closest to La Spezia

Drink / Join this popular vineyard & wine tasting tour

Eat / A cone of fried fish from Tutti Frutti

Class / Take a small group cooking class

Stay / Our Airbnb pick in Riomaggiore is Marina’s House

An Essential Guide to Riomaggiore, Cinque terre

Things to Do in Riomaggiore


Hike to the Sanctuary of Montenero

This circular 3.5 km trail begins and ends in Riomaggiore, making its way up to the 11th century Santuario di Nostra Signora di Montenero. The church itself is often shut to visitors, but thankfully what you’re really coming up here for is the spectacular views out over the vineyards, the sea and the villages below - we were lucky enough to be up here for golden hour, and it was just beautiful.

The hike is relatively easy, and should take someone of relative fitness no more than 1.5 hours. Starting along Via Colombo, make your way to Via Santuario, past the small car park (here on Google Maps) and then keep heading directly up!

To return, make your way down the steep set of stairs located at the viewpoint.

Travel Tip // Riomaggiore or neighbouring Manarola, were linked by the short Via dell’Amore (Lover’s Lane) section of the famous Blue Trail. However, landslides and erosion have meant the closure of this section of the hike for several years. If staying in Riomaggiore, you can still access the other sections of the Blue Trail by taking the train to the startpoint in Monterosso or Corniglia - see our Hiking Cinque Terre Guide for more information.

view from above of fishing boat in blue sea

Take in the Views from the Castle

A beautiful view that’s a little easier to get to is that overlooking the coast from Castello di Riomaggiore (here on Google Maps).

To begin the short walk, head up Via Colombo (the main street) to the Post Office where you’ll find a small staircase called Scalinata della Valle; turn left and walk up the stairs until you reach Via Pecunia. Follow this small road all the way to the castle (if you’re looking for somewhere to have a drink or snack along the way, we can recommend Four Rotta).

From the castle you can easily access the train station, but we’d recommend instead following the path towards the harbour to take in the kaleidoscopic blues of the water, the greens of the vineyards, all punctuated by small plots of land filled with juicy tomatoes, ripe squash and aromatic lemon trees (don’t pick or trespass though).

Absolutely stunning!

To make your way back to the harbour via a beautiful view, pop this point in Google Maps.

If you walk this route without a break, you could easily do it in under 45 minutes, however this is a short manageable walk that is all about savouring the vistas and getting to know the village better, so be sure to take your time!

Rent a boat or kayak

Riomaggiore was actually the best village in the Cinque Terre for offering this sort of activity. If you’d like to get out on the water, there are a number of companies in and around the harbour offering boat (either self-drive or skippered) and kayak rentals, as well as tours.

Our Airbnb host had a personal recommendation for a company that offered both these, so if you’re not keen to negotiate at the harbour, it is definitely worth discussing with your accommodation.

We do not have prices for boat rental, but expect to pay around €45 per person for a tour lasting a couple of hours, which often also includes snorkelling and / or refreshments.

One thing we do want to mention regarding boat tours, is ensuring the number of people vs the boat size is reasonable. We did see one very small - essentially a dinghy - heading out with six passengers which neither looked terribly enjoyable nor safe!

The Cinque Terre Ferry | A popular alternative to hiring your own boat or taking a tour, is to create a DIY boat tour of the Cinque Terre by hopping on the ferry which connects La Spezia to Levanto via Portovenere, Riomaggiore, Manarola, Vernazza and Monterosso.

To limit your ticket to only the four Cinque Terre towns (Corniglia has no boat access, therefore is not included), it costs €39 per adult, and €15 for kids for unlimited usage that day.

Tickets can theoretically be bought in advance, but given that they can be cancelled at late notice due to stormy weather we recommend instead purchasing them from the ticket office up to 30 minutes before departure; the Riomaggiore ticket office can be found here.

There are regular departures from Riomaggiore, with one departure heading north and one going south nearly every hour from around 10 am and 6 pm in the evening. You can find a full timetable here, but do note that this ferry service does not run during the winter (i.e. there are no ferries between November 1st until March 25th).

Top Tip // We can’t find any specific kayak or boat tours to book online that leave from Riomaggiore, however if this is something you’d like to do (and you’re keen to get it booked in, in advance), consider joining a popular boat trip departing from Monterosso instead. This three-hour sunset option with aperitif is super popular, or if you’d prefer to head out on a private tour in the day time, this excellently priced option includes alcoholic drinks and snacks (if you’re in a big group or it’s for a super special occasion, this option would be an incredible splurge).

boat tour and rental shop

Snorkel or Scuba Dive in riomaggiore, Cinque Terre

You will likely be as surprised as us to discover that Riomaggiore has its very own dive centre - the only one within the Cinque Terre - with daily trips out to the Marine Protected Area.

Catering to novice and expert divers, you can even get your PADI here! Unfortunately we had not yet learnt to dive when we visited the villages so are unable to give you an in-depth review of the diving possibilities along the coast. You can however find out more, on their official website.

Enjoy a cone of fried fish by the water

You will find places selling cones of mixed fried fish all along the Cinque Terre coast, but our particular favourite was right here in Riomaggiore, at a little place called Tutti Fritti.

Small and unassuming, you can get a regular cone for around €5 or a large for €8. Mixed seafood seemed to be a popular option, but we were particularly partial to straight anchovies (well, they are a speciality in these parts!). Go heavy on the salt and ask for extra lemon to squeeze!

There is a small amount of public seating outside the takeaway, however we’d recommend making your way down to the harbour, finding yourself a comfy looking rock and taking in the seaside views. Note that the harbour in Riomaggiore has to be accessed from the village via a small set of stairs into a short covered walkway down from Via Colombo - it’s very clearly signposted though.

You can find Tutti Frutti along the the main street (Via Colombo), here on Google Maps.

There’s another nearby - Il Pescato Cucinato - which does exactly the same type of food; we tried both but preferred Tutti’s.

Read Later // 13 Wonderful Things to Do in Cinque Terre.

Fried fish cone held over rocks

Get in some beach time

As we’ve mentioned throughout our Cinque Terre guides, this stretch of coast is not known for its golden beaches (except one). However, what it lacks in sand it more than makes up for in rocky recesses - trust us, after several summers in Italy, we’ve now been well and truly converted!.

There are two perfect spots for sun lovers in Riomaggiore: the first is along the wave breaker directly in front of the harbour - the spot from which you’ve likely seen countless Instagram images - and the second on the pebble-beach Spiaggia di Riomaggiore (here on Google Maps), as well as the larger rocks to the right of it.

We personally preferred the larger rocks next to the official beach as it was a little quieter and the vertical nature of their placement allows for more privacy.

Alternatively, make your way out to the wave breaker rocks here, which also serve as the best vantage point for watching the sunset over the colourful village (more on this below). Note that you cannot swim in the harbour side of the rocks in Riomaggiore due to boat traffic.

Read Later // The Best Beaches of Cinque Terre


Visit the Other Villages in the Cinque Terre

Riomaggiore is a fantastic base from which to explore the four other Cinque Terre villages, with all five linked by a regular - and quick - train service.

You can find specific guides to the other four villages below:

Monterosso | Vernazza | Corniglia | Manarola

colourful houses in piazza vignaioli

Discover the Old Town

The village of Riomaggiore may be relatively small, but within its tiny streets and narrow staircases there remains plenty to explore and enjoy for the curious traveller. Here are a few to seek out:

Stroll along Via Colombo (maps) | Riomaggiore’s main street, this is where you’ll find the majority of the village’s restaurants, bars, enotecas and artisanal gift shops. You’ll naturally walk it several times if you are based here, but if visiting only for the day please do make a point of walking its length - it really is terribly picturesque.

Church of San Giovanni Battista (maps) | Originally built in 1340 (but requiring a little makeover in the 19th century after a partial collapse), this Gothic church is worth popping your head into, but our main reason for recommending it is the lovely view of Riomaggiore offered from its small piazza.

Oratorio di Santa Maria Assunta (maps) | Also known as Chiesa dalla Compagnia, this 16th century church near the castle is easily accessible from Via Colombo.

Piazza Vignaioli (maps) | A popular spot for kids to play, this raised piazza offers a great view back on Via Colombo. Especially beautiful when the sun hits just right, and illuminates the colourful buildings that line the street.

Watch the sunset & viewpoints

There are many popular places to catch the sunset in the Cinque Terre, but Riomaggiore’s was probably our personal favourite.

To take up prime position, we’d recommend heading to that wave breaker that we mentioned above. It’s a super popular place to go during the late afternoon/early evening, but with views both out to sea and of the setting sun, plus back on to the village cast in gold, it’s definitely the spot to end your day!

Alternatively, there are some stairs leading down from the old coastal trail between Riomaggiore and Manarola on the right hand side of the harbour which leads to a rocky outcrop and platform nearby.

And whilst it’s become a little bit of an Instagram cliché in either of these close-together spots, grabbing a couple of takeaway pizzas and chilled beers makes a fine (early) dinner and accompaniment.

During the day, you’ll also find a lot of people crowding in one specific above the harbour for a photo with the colourful houses of Riomaggiore forming the backdrop. Whether you want the photo or not, it’s definitely a great spot to appreciate the beauty of the village, although it does become crowded. Simply walk down the stairs to the harbour, and then walk up the very narrow set of stairs on the left hand side. This will bring you to the viewpoint (Google Maps), which is opposite the boat ticket kiosk and a popular bar with views too, La Conchiglia. We didn’t stop at La Conchiglia as we were heading onward to the rocks to sunbathe and have our own beers from the shop, but we’d expect that it’s quite difficult to get a free table most days in summer.

Read Later // 23 Things to Know Before You Visit Cinque Terre

man standing on white rocks at sunset

Taste Cinque Terre Wine

Used to seeing highly cultivated vineyards elsewhere in the world, to us, the vineyards of Cinque Terre have a much more organic feel. Indeed, winemaking here is defined as a somewhat heroic viticulture because of how difficult it is work with the improbably steep and rocky terrain, meaning that everything from general maintenance to harvesting needs to be done by hand.

It’s no mean feat, and something we’d encourage you to witness yourself.

Should you be hiking along the Blue Trail between Monterosso and Corniglia (or vice versa), you’ll have the opportunity to see lots of vineyards, or alternatively if you’d prefer to engage in a walk that begins and ends in Riomaggiore, we’d highly recommend following the trail up to the Sanctuary of Montenero that we described above to see first hand quite how rugged the landscape is, and what an achievement it has been to cultivate the natural landscape.

And then you can sample the wine!

There are two main local wines: the Cinque Terre DOC (a dry white made with the native Bosco grape, together with Albarola and Vermentino) and the Sciacchetrà DOC (a sweet dessert wine) - and we encourage you to try both during your time in the region.

Whilst you can sample these wines in a number of places in the Cinque Terre, within Riomaggiore we had the following places recommended to us by Amy from Cinque Terre Insider due to the reliability of them stocking wine from the smaller vintners:

Vineria Ghemé | A delightful wine shop on Via Colombo, that stocks lots of local wines (as well as craft beers and speciality food products) run by sommeliers that are more than happy to tell you the story and history behind any bottle you would like to buy. You can find it here on Google Maps.

The Wine House | Another shop where you can choose from a wide selection of white Cinque Terre DOC, Sciacchetrà Cinque Terre DOC, as well as national wines and typical Ligurian products. You can find it here on Google Maps.

Enoteca D’UU Scintu | Our final recommendation is another shop (sorry, if you don’t have a balcony upon which to sample them!), this one also selling a wonderfully curated selection of local wines and food products. They are also able to arrange for boxes of wine to be sent directly to your home. Find it here on Google Maps.

Alternatively, consider joining this popular vineyard visit & wine tasting tour. You can also take a looks at this one on Viator.

Also, keep an eye out for the I Magnati brand by Riccardo, a local vintner with whom were fortunate enough to spend time.

Restaurants and Bars in Riomaggiore

Bar O’Netto | Excellent playlist, good - and reasonably priced - wine list with local picks, and a little more life to it, especially in the evenings. This bar doesn’t actually appear to be on Google Maps, but you can find it opposite Bar Zorza.

Rio Bistrot | With a nod from the Michelin Guide, this is seafood restaurant on the harbour is considered to be one of the very best dining experiences in Riomaggiore, and whilst we didn’t personally dine here, it would be remiss not to mention it.

Tutti Fritti | Yes we know, we’ve already mentioned this fried fish place, but just in case you missed it first time round, we really think you need to give it a go!

La Lampara | A nice little pizza and pasta spot with reasonable prices and decent portions.

Osteria La Torpedine | This new place is slightly hidden away, but was just down the steps from our Airbnb. They’ve got an intentionally limited menu of small seafood plates (sort of like tapas), and a really nice approach and ambience. Go through the arch to the left of Bar Zorza to find it.

Britta | If you’re feeling a little carb overloaded and need something fresh and healthy, this is your best bet! All homemade and vegan, it’s a great place to grab takeout for lunch.

Primo Piatto | If you’re craving a bowl of excellent pasta but don’t want to eat out, head to Primo Piatto, where they offer portions of fresh handmade pasta to takeaway and cook at home.

Da Dulin | Technically a pizzeria (that also does takeout), this new restaurant with a contemporary feel inside also serves up good pasta.

Vertical Lounge Bar | We don’t particularly rate the music in this bar, however as a bar rather than a restaurant, it’s a good place to go if you want to have a bit more of a ‘going out’ vibe.

La Cantina del Macellaio | Not our cup of tea, but if you enjoy meat, this highly rated restaurant is considered excellent by the carnivorous.

Bar e Vini a Piè de Mà | A hidden away bar just up from the train station offering pretty nice views to accompany your drinks and simple dishes.

Reservations are recommend for popular places in the evenings during high season. We can also recommend Caffe Bistrot Nonna Vittoria for a quick breakfast of pastries and coffee (they are also the only one that do soya milk).

Travel Tip // If you enjoy learning to cook as much as you do eating what others prepare, consider joining this popular small group pasta and tiramisu cooking class or this gnocchi and pesto making class.

Chalk menu on paper stuck to wall

Where to Stay in Riomaggiore

As we mentioned in our 23 Things to Know Before Visiting the Cinque Terre post, this is not a cheap part of Italy to visit. Therefore, with Airbnbs starting around £100 per night and decent hotels around double that it’s really important that you quickly reassess what good value means.

However, we were both really happy with Riomaggiore as a base for the second part of our Cinque Terre experience, and would highly recommend it to other travellers or couples looking for a base which is great to hang around in during the day in its own right, which also has a couple of places to drink and eat in the evening with a bit more of a youthful energy to them (though please note that the Cinque Terre is not a place for getting boozy or partying - don’t come here if that’s what you’re looking for).

We’ve put together a comprehensive post on ‘Where to Stay in Cinque Terre’, which offers an extensive, curated guide to the best Airbnbs, hotels and guest houses within the five villages but have included a selection of our top picks for Riomaggiore below:

Airbnbs

Marina’s House | Probably our top Airbnb pick in Riomaggiore, this two bedroom apartment is not only super modern and lovely inside, it also has a terrace with spectacular views overlooking the harbour. To check prices and availability, click here.

Villino Caterina | A light, bright and modern Airbnb (albeit with a couple of questionable design choices), it is the incredible terrace that really makes this one bedroom apartment an excellent choice. To check prices and availability, click here.

Ca'der Porpo Rossa | This is the little studio that we stayed in, located on a quiet little street just off the main thoroughfare. Small but functional kitchen with everything you need, also has a small patio area outside with table and chair. The host was also super helpful! Note that there is no natural light due to it previously being a wine cellar - not a problem if you’re out for most of the day. From €130 a night in high season. Find out more here.

Oltre | A fabulous one-bedroom apartment, with stunning views of the water and colourful houses below (plus ideally located to enjoy the sunset). Located in a quiet spot yet close to everything, the Airbnb is well equipped, stylish and spotlessly clean. Great hosts to boot! Check availability here.

Hotels & Guest houses

Affittacamere Le Giare | Small guest house with four rooms (one of which has disabled access), three of which have balconies with sea view. From €115 a night. Check prices and availability here.

Cinque Terre Residence | Ideal for those looking for a traditional hotel set up, this highly rated hotel has a lovely garden plus outdoor hot tub, with all rooms having a private terrace with views overlooking Riomaggiore. From €195 a night. Check prices and availability here.

Ai Pesci | Small guesthouse with three high-standard rooms (including one apartment), all tastefully decorated, lovely and bright and with great views (all balconies and windows face west making them an ideal spot to watch the sunset). Part of a bigger portfolio of accommodations across Italy, we stayed in their property in Monterosso and were very happy. From €180 per night. Check prices and availability here.

For more, read our full Cinque Terre Accommodation post.

How to get to Riomaggiore & Transport Connections

Located at the southernmost point of the Cinque Terre, Riomaggiore can be reached very easily from larger cities along the Ligurian Coast, or indeed elsewhere across Italy.

Train

We’ve written specific articles on train connections to / from Cinque Terre from other popular Italian destinations, including Genoa, Pisa, Florence, and Milan. Travel time for all is between 1.5 and 3.5 hours, tickets cost €7-15, and journeys will often involve a connection in La Spezia, Sestri Levante, or Levanto.

From La Spezia to Riomaggiore, it’s just 8 minutes; simply take the local train in the direction of Sestri Levante and get at the first stop.

From Sestri Levante (30 or 50 mins, depending upon train) or Levanto (20 mins), simply take the regional train in the direction of La Spezia Centrale and get off at the Riomaggiore stop.

You can find Riomaggiore train station here on Google Maps, inside of which there is an information office and a couple of ticket machines. Note that the station is a short walk through a tunnel to the village centre, but this is a flat, paved walkway which suitcases can easily manage (but bargain at least five minutes for it if you’re rushing for the last train!)

Between all five Cinque Terre villages, in both directions, there are very frequent departures bringing you to the others in a matter of minutes. A single journey costs €5 (a flat rate to/from any of the five villages). If you’re planning on using the train to get between the Cinque Terre villages - which we wholeheartedly recommend - consider investing in the Cinque Terre Treno Card, which includes unlimited travel on the Cinque Terre Express train line as well as access to the Blue Trail and buses.

You can find all the details Cinque Terre card and the transport system in this post.

Car

Whilst we wouldn’t actually recommend arriving into Riomaggiore by car, both for financial and logistical reasons, it is possible. All the villages in the Cinque Terre are closed to traffic, but there is a small car park in at the entrance to Riomaggiore (here on Google Maps). Note that it’s not cheap (around €35 a day), and there are only around 40 spaces.

Alternatively, you can park in the larger car park in Levanto, La Spezia, or Monterosso al Mare and catch the train into Riomaggiore.

Plane

The nearest airports to Riomaggiore are in Genoa, Pisa and Florence. See these guides for further information:

// How to get from Genoa Airport to the Cinque Terre

// How to get from Pisa Airport to the Cinque Terre

// How to get from Florence Airport to the Cinque Terre

// How to get from Milan Airports to the Cinque Terre

riomaggiore train station

Riomaggiore Travel Tips

ATMs | There are two ATM options in Riomaggiore; Banca Carige (here on Google Maps) on Via Colombo and Credit Agricol outside the train station (here on Google Maps).

Baggage Shuttle | If you’re travelling to the Cinque Terre with a lot of luggage, or simply don’t fancy dragging a suitcase up hill, you’ll be pleased to know that a enterprising local has created a baggage shuttle service that will collect your luggage from the station upon arrival and deposit it at your accommodation. You can contact him on +39 329 8966219.

Pigeons | Don’t feed them here!

Restaurant Reservations | Given the popularity of the Cinque Terre and the relatively small number of restaurants, it’s essential to make a dinner reservation rather than simply turn up and hope they have a table.

Supermarkets | There are three small supermarkets in Riomaggiore, but we’d recommend Alimentari Franca near the stairs down to the harbour, rather than the two Cinque Terre grocery stores up the hill - he’s a really friendly fella if you make an effort with him!

Water Fountain | Don’t be part of the single-use plastic problem: use a refillable metal/glass water bottle and fill up at the fountain outside Bar O’Netto.

 
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