At the end of the infamously titled 'world's most dangerous road', teetering on a cliff-side and shrouded in rainforest, exists a little slice of paradise. To many a traveller, this peaceful spot is simply the place to dismount from a rented bicycle, with most ending their journey at the town's edge, never seeking to explore what lies within and beyond.
However, having decided many months before that careering along the edge of a narrow mountain pass on the back of a bicycle was not for us, it was nature, not adventure, that brought us to Coroico, Bolivia. This, after all, is a place that deserves days, not hours.
Easy treks through endless green, beautiful exotic birds, coca fields, warm weather, and most importantly after days in La Paz, oxygen rich air. Coroico is where you go to relax, to lie in a hammock or swim in a waterfall - it is a place where often the best thing to do, is nothing at all.
Located just a muddy twenty minute walk (or a much more civilised five minute taxi ride) from town, Sol y Luna is a destination in itself hidden beneath a canopy of trees, its narrow paths lined by wildflowers connecting rustic cabanas, inviting pools and the verdant green forest beyond.
One such cabin was 'Nectar', a perfectly formed little hideaway, and our home for three nights.
A bright blue door in a pink washed wall; an old wooden cabinet upon slate coloured stone, holding pots and pans, and a small stove; small windows buried in thick white walls, and worn dark wood floorboards beneath a soft quilt covered bed.
It took a few moments to notice the vista which stretched out before us through the glass panelled hobbit-sized balcony door. Rainforest and raindrops, the grey of ragged cliffs fading in the setting sun and hugged by a rising mist. On our own private bamboo balcony, we sat with glasses of delicious Bolivian wine, the sounds of birds whispering goodnight as the forest settled at the end of the day.
When you make the choice to travel to Bolivia in February, you quickly realise that plans mean very little to Mother Nature, and what starts with a few drops of water rarely remains so. Our time in Coroico was no different. An early morning hike eschewed for a yoga class as a powerful storm raged, strong dark coffee under a canopy of bamboo and an afternoon nap to the sound of the rain.
But then, the sun came and we were called to a pool hidden in the trees.
We took walks through the forest along tracks marked and unmarked winding our way up towards a break in the forest, our sweat paying for breathtaking views of the valley below.
For some, Sol y Luna may just be a place to rest your head, but for us, it was an escape all of its own.
Ecolodge Sol y Luna
Sol y Luna was a truly excellent place to stay. Whether you're a solo traveller looking for a reasonably priced dorm bed with excellent facilities, or a a couple happy to spend a little more and enjoy the privacy of your own beautifully rustic cabaña (such as 'Nectar', the delightful cottage we enjoyed for three nights), we'd recommend it whole-heartedly.
The ecolodge is located a little out of town, along a winding dirt road. Although it is walkable in around 20 minutes, if you have luggage, we'd definitely recommend taking a taxi from the town centre (20-25 Bolivianos).
Facilities provided by Sol y Luna include an on-site restaurant with an expansive vegetarian menu (as we've discovered on this trip, this is definitely the exception, not the rule!), two swimming pools, wifi (although only available in the restaurant, and not terribly fast), yoga classes, guided walks, a plethora of information on activities in and around town plus a well-stocked book exchange.
Prices start range from 70B for a dorm bed, 140B for a double with shared bathroom to 350B for two people in an apartment or cabaña. There are also larger cabañas available for groups or families. It is also worth noting that should you choose to stay longer than two nights, there is a discount on room rates.
Our stay was provided free of charge so that we could experience Sol y Luna Ecolodge. As ever, all photos, opinions and spelling errors are our own. For more information on why you can trust our reviews, click here.